Lighter Socket Wiring

You guys have been a great help to me before and I was wondering if you could help me once again...
I'm trying to install a lighter socket (to be used as a power source
for satellite radio) into a 1991 Honda Civic (which came without a socket). I got a socket from a used auto parts yard and when attempting to install, I couldn't make heads or tails of the available wiring. It looks as though the my Honda has recepticle for use with a lighter (which contains a red, red w/black stripe, black and white w/ green stripe) but the lighter socket I bought has a white wire w/ blue stripe. Where do I go from here? Should I just forget it and bring it somewhere to get installed? I tried to study the wire guides and thought I was prepared to do it myself...
Thanks again ...
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You'll either have to know the car the socket came from or do some multimetering/visual inspection on the socket.
For the wiring on your '91, see here: http://search.ebscohost.com / Login with username: lib password: access
Choose "Auto Repair Reference Center" from the menu at left, then locate your car. The wiring diagrams are there.
Good luck.
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Mark333777 wrote:

Guess it depends how involved you want the circuit. I think honda uses a relay for the cig lighter according to the diagrams. So, that could account for the extra wiring. You might have the pigtail to plug into a lighter, but I wonder if you have the relay on the car. If it did, it would probably be best to use an exact replacement with the proper wiring scheme. But the usual run of the mill lighter just has a single "+" connection. No relay is used. They just use wiring thick enough to handle the current, and it's fused through the fusebox. So if you didn't have a relay, or are just lazy, you could just run a single hot wire to
a standard lighter, assuming you can get a ground at the lighter socket frame. If not, you'd have to run a separate ground wire also. I usually run wire straight to the battery. I've got a ICOM IC-706mk2 in my accord. I drilled a hole in the floor next to the firewall, and ran thick wire direct to the battery from the radio. Of course, my current draw is probably a
good bit more than a sat radio. I pull about 15-20 amps at full power out depending on audio level, etc. If you do run direct wiring, make sure it has fuses. If you run both + and - wires, fuse both lines near the battery. MK
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