linear shift solenoid goes bad too often

I had this problem with my 1996 civic before. With an warm engine, shifting from 2 to 3 causes the engine to rev very high for fraction of a second. I took it to a Honda dealer and they said "Transmission
has a flare". They asked me to replace the transmission.
Then I took it to Aamco and they said linear shift solenoid need to be replaced. It was replaced and the problem recurred in 3 months. I asked them to go for Honda parts this time. They did that (as they said). Again after 1 year the same problem.
It has 228K km, coolant level is okay, Transmission fluid is OK (changed a year ago and its pink), regularly changing oils from Honda dealership.
I know it will cost me another 400 dollars to replace the solenoid. Any idea why its going bad so frequently? Thanks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ExtremeValue wrote:

Perhaps the first replacement solenoid was not new. It may have been on its last legs.
There could also be a problem in the transmission control conputer. Solenoids need a surge of current when first turned on to pull it in and then considerably less to remain activated. Maybe the control unit is not reducing the current flow through the solenoid after that first inrush thereby cooking it. That might cause it to fail prematurely.
Have you checked the transmission computer for error signals? When the ignition is on, a light-emitting diode may flash on the computer module. The number of flashes, if any, indicates which problem the computer is experiencing. I don't know where that is on a '96 Civic - probably under the carpet under the passenger's feet.
--
Chuck



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Charles wrote:

I should also mention that if you have the solenoid connectors apart, measure the resistance of the solenoids to ground. They're usually less than a few dozen ohms. If they show several hundred ohms, they're bad. That increased resistance causes them to heat up more quickly. A hot solenoid core saturates magnetically and won't release leading to the flaring.
--
Chuck



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Charles wrote:

turn fry the ecu. after a while anyway.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I took it to my mechanic and he took it for a test drive, opened hood and inspected something while somebody started the engine (put it in drive and also at reverse). After that, he said "if you wanna believe me, your transmission and everything is fine". He also asked me not to pay too much attention while driving.
May be he is right, may be he is wrong. I came back home. That's the end for now.
I found a forum post at http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t 2967. This is exactly the same problem as I was/am facing:
=========starts===================transmission flare when shifting
Have a 96, 4.0 ohv, 114000 miles on it. Transmission flares when shifting from 2nd to 3rd under light load. This does not happen all the time, but enough to have me worried. Seems to happen only when trans is at operating temp, never when cold. Have read up on this problem, some say a bad gasket on the valve body or loose valve body bolts will cause this. I have a B&M Shift-Plus electronic shift kit that is supposed to tighten up the shift. Would it help to install it? I don't hot rod, just want max life out of the truck. Thanks, Jack ==========ends==================
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ExtremeValue wrote:

see how it goes.

different type of transmission - has planetary gears and clutch bands. adjusting the bands usually fixes that.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ExtremeValue wrote:

Did he experience the flare problem or did it not appear for him?

If there really is a problem, it will get worse. Perhaps the problem will even be exhibited when the system is cold.
By the way, you can have someone check the resistance of the solenoids even when the transmission is cold. Bad ones will still show a very high reading on an ohmmeter.
--
Chuck



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It seems that he did not feel the flare problem. It only occurs when pressing the gas "unusually" low.

It does not show when cold. Cold transmission shifts good.

I've adjusted my foot and now the problem seems to be disappearing.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ExtremeValue wrote:

did you get the motor maintained so it's operating as well as it can?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ExtremeValue wrote:

if the motor's flaring, it's much more likely a problem with the general condition of the motor.
my experience is that basically, the transmission expects the motor to produce a certain amount of power in a certain amount of time in the event of a downshift. if it's too sluggish, the clutches don't lock and the motor flares. my 89 civic was chronic for this when i first got it. and that's why the previous owner sold it - they'd been told it needed a new transmission as some frightful expense.
so, i came in and sorted the motor out, adjusted the shift cable properly, etc. and now the car's fine.
checklist includes making sure the cam belt is correctly tensioned, ignition timing is correct, all the ignition components are in good order, the valves are adjusted correctly, egr system is ok, transmission fluid is ok, coolant levels good with thermostat working correctly, etc. take care of all the little things that can affect general engine health, i bet this problem disappears like mine did.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hi Jim
In my case its downshifting okay but the problem is with upshifting from 2 to 3. If I press on gas pedal a bit harder (than what I usually do) the shifting has no problem. What I will do is to have these responses printed and take them to my mechanic. I like to get this things sorted. The car is otherwise fine.
By the way, what motor you are talking about? Is it related to the engine or the transmission? (Sorry, I have no idea about auto engines).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ExtremeValue wrote:

i would caution you on who you go to. you don't want to pay $400 for a $110 part. and you want someone who knows more than "replace the transmission".

i would recommend you take care of the general condition things with the motor and see what effect that has first. change the fluid on the transmission one more time too.

clutch solenoid but no shift solenoids like yours. i did have a solenoid go bad in a way that it would trigger code on one ecu, but not another. i figured my old ecu was bad and replaced that for $35 at my local junk yard. as a diagnostic tool, you can try that too. you can always sell it again if it turns out to be unnecessary.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.