Need advice on radiator replacement

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On 12/10/2010 06:56 PM, Ron wrote:


then either you need better glasses, or you need to put your money where your mouth obviously is, and not have changed them.
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Ah, I didn't do the job Mr. Knowitall. You sure do assume a lot of shit.
Oh, and 2 other people at the shop looked at the belts and couldn't believe that there wasn't any visible wear.
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On 12/11/2010 02:13 PM, Ron wrote:

well, disbelief certainly seems to be a factor with you ron, i'll give you that.
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On 12/10/2010 06:56 PM, Ron wrote:
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That is a LOT of money to change that radiator! Especially since the radiator is only $100.
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wrote:>>

There's labor involved as well, you know. Plus we don't know what the garage had on their quote, so there may have been other parts (such as the hoses) included.
And $400 to have a proper job done the first time beats a much larger bill to fix stuff that got screwed-up during a home project.
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On 12/10/2010 07:13 PM, Ron wrote:

then do it yourself. oh, wait, you're too busy telling other people what they're doing...
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It's not my car, moron. Back to the KF.
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On 12/11/2010 02:14 PM, Ron wrote:

like i said, you don't know what you're talking about.
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Tegger wrote:

I've been getting a lot of my parts from Rock Auto and you can get a new Spectra for well under $100. They have fast delivery too!
JT
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On 12/10/2010 10:30 AM, Peabody wrote:

decent quality new rads are so cheap, and the consequences of losing pressure and the subsequently boiling coolant warping your cylinder head so bad, it's not worth not replacing - patching doesn't work.
as for replacement, it's not hard, but there's quite a few steps involved. suggest buying the factory service manual from helm.com - while not cheap, it'll help you with many other repairs and will pay for itself.
get a decent after-market branded rad from somewhere like autopartsworld.com. don't go with metal tanks, go with plastic like the oem - modern antifreeze formulations don't work with the solder on those rads.
when refilling, use distilled or deionized [not softened] water with the antifreeze, not tap water.
you might need a lube on the coolant hoses for reassembly. don't use oil based, use water based. ky works great.
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Very easy to replace!
This used to be a zip file download only. Looks like you now have to use Rapid Share (free) to get the zip file.
http://manualspace.com/honda-accord-1994-1997-maintenance-service-manual.htm
Look under "cooling" after download.
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Here's a video showing one way to do the replacement without having to remove the splash guard or jack up the car:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPII3yh4btA

Well, ignore the 10/12 minute time limit. And the car he's working on may not be a Honda, but the setup looks similar.
So basically he removes the upper hose at the radiator, but the lower hose at the thermostat. Then the fan electical connectors. And he disconnects the ATF lines up near the top of the transmission - but still at a rubber hose connection. Then he just pulls the whole thing out. Then he does all the switching-over outside the car - the ATF hoses, the lower main hose, and the fans - and puts it all back as a unit.
The main thing that's in the way is the A/C line that runs across the front between the engine and the radiator, but looking at my car it seems there's plenty of room to get the radiator assembly out and back in.
So the only issues on the bottom would be the drain plug to drain the coolant, which I can easily get to, and the fan connector on the passenger side, which is down at the bottom. And then putting it back in I would need to be sure the radiator is resting correctly on the rubber cushions.
Aside from skinned nuckles and fluids all over the place, this looks to me like it should work. And since I don't have jack stands, and Tegger thinks I'm a danger to myself and society at large anyway :-) maybe this is the best way to go.
Please let me know if you see a reason why this method won't work on a Honda, or particular things I should look out for doing it this way.
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That is pretty much the way Tegger said to do it.
On the passenger side slide out the plastic coolant reservoir, the plug-in to the fan is right underneath it. At least it is on my car.
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I don't jack up our cars, but that's only because everything's accessible from the front (but /very/ snug from underneath).
OP has an Accord. I do believe his engine has its block drain at the rear of the block, next to the oil filter. It would therefore be absolutely necessary for him to jack up the car.
DO NOT change the coolant without removing the block drain!
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Tegger says...
> I don't jack up our cars, but that's only because > everything's accessible from the front (but /very/ snug > from underneath).
> OP has an Accord. I do believe his engine has its block > drain at the rear of the block, next to the oil filter. > It would therefore be absolutely necessary for him to > jack up the car.
> DO NOT change the coolant without removing the block > drain!
Well, the coolant was changed last year, so I planned to just reuse it if I can keep it clean when draining. Or if not, just add new coolant to fill it up.
But the block drain issue aside, you agree that the radiator assembly can be lifted out and replaced without having to get underneath?
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Yes.
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Add new coolant of the exact same manufacturer and type as the original. Do not re-use old coolant.
You're going to lose all but a quart of the old coolant when you pull the rad.
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On 12/12/2010 08:47 PM, Peabody wrote:

don't re-use. you'll not collect 100%, it'll be full of debris, oil drips and other stuff as it falls out of the car, and you'd have to have a good filter to clean it. simply not worth it when you can buy new for $10.

yup, just like it shows you in the vid.
i would also recommend you hose out under the hood when you're done. antifreeze can be corrosive if left exposed to air.
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On 12/11/2010 06:29 PM, Ron wrote:

but but but it's /not/ the way you said to do it ron. that must be one of those fake youtube videos put out by some malicious viral marketer of aftermarket radiator hose clamps...

ah, so you finally bothered to look in the book. maybe you should post a how-to on youtube?
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