Need advice on radiator replacement

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jim beam says...
> you'd need a /lot/ of air in the system to cause that. > and this is a frequently mis-diagnosed problem. yes, > the coolant level can tell the computer not to lock up
> the torque converter, but it can also be caused by > issues with the transmission selector switch - in my > experience, that can be more common on hondas. if the > problem recurs, re-post and i'll link you to a write-up > of how to fix it.
In an attempt to diagnose the problem, I rigged up a circuit tied in to the lines going to the two solenoids near the top of the transmission that shift the tranny into lockup. (I actually know something about electronics, as opposed to automotive stuff.) And I was out driving around at night so I could see whether the LEDs were blinking. But, the expected signals weren't being sent to the solenoids. Actually that was good news because it meant there probably wasn't anything wrong with the transmission.
It was at that point that someone suggested it might be a temperature problem - possibly a bad thermostat, or air that hadn't been bled out. So I tried the air bleed, and the tranny worked perfectly after that.
By the way, the proper signals going to the solenoids turned out to be a bit strange. One gets a solid 12V, but the other one gets a pulsing signal - modulated in some way.
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On 12/15/2010 09:43 PM, Peabody wrote:

if it worked, that's great - i'm just saying that the switch is something you have to look out for because it's known to fail, and the commonly recommended searches of the coolant circuits can be a wild goose chase.

that's pulse width modulation - it's the way you get to vary the pressure in the solenoid switched hydraulic circuits between the two extremes of "on" and "off". it's used on lockup clutches in modern transmission control systems to provide partial slip and thus better ratio/engine power band matching and so both fuel economy and better drivability. my 96 accord does it.
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nomina rutrum rutrum

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Well there y'go. I appear to have been overly pessimistic. Good work.
--
Tegger

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Tegger says...
>> Well, I appreciate everyone's help with this. I saved >> $260 doing it myself, and kinda enjoyed doing it. So >> thanks for all the advice.
> Well there y'go. I appear to have been overly > pessimistic. Good work.
Oh ye of little faith. :-)
Thanks very much for your help.
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That is one of the reasons that I pulled my fans first. They have to come off anyway and they are a piece of cake to remove.. Another reason was so I wouldn't make a huge mess with the coolant and tranny fluid.
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On 12/16/2010 08:35 AM, Ron wrote:

here's yet another reason why we know you haven't really done this ron - you don't have room to remove a fan assembly without dragging the edges of it over the radiator matrix. and when you do that, you don't just bend the fins, you can actually pierce the coolant tubes. indeed, i've watched someone do this when they thought they knew what they were doing but didn't.
to anyone else reading, do this job exactly like it shows in that video. take the whole shooting match out as a unit, swap all the parts, them put the new one back as a unit. making sure you unclip the transmission cooler hoses from the top.

the only mess you're making ron is the saliva you're drooling because you don't know when to keep your mouth closed.
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Tell me HOW you change the fan motors if you can't remove the fan assemblies w/o damaging the radiator? Oh, that's right, you can't answer the question because you dug yourself into a hole.
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Just can't get out of that hole you dug for yourself, can ya? lol
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