read over the weekend the excellent detail at
is it possible to restrict maintenance to just inspecting and lubricating the pins, to ensure free movement, when no need to do anything about the brake pads or other parts, IOW, just to ensure the pins are moving freely ?
how often should that be done ? simply a matter of identifying pin location and spraying some CRC or similar ?
"mike" wrote in news:iiou6u$44t$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
to lube the pins,you use a high temperature silicone grease. you can buy small packets of it at auto parts stores. DO NOT spray lube the pins.it will burn up and your pins will seize up.
"mike" wrote in news:iiou6u$44t$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
You should read the OTHER five pages. They're badly in need of updating, but are still useful to those who have some mechanical savvy.
Brake service is a all-or-nothing thing: Do it all, or it's not done right.
Checking the pins means pulling the caliper, which involves 95% of the work needed to service the brakes.
Once a year. At minimum. Until you have some history with the brakes.
Read ALL the brake pages on my site, not just the first one.
Do NOT use ANYTHING other than Sil-Glyde on the pins and boots! Sil-Glyde is sold by most auto part places, usually in the same place as the anti- seize greases.
If you decide to actually perform this service, post here again and I'll give a few more tips I haven't put on the site yet.
am all ears and ready to do job this weekend. post away, please. thank you!
"mike" wrote in news:iiro2b$llk$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal- september.org:
The pins on your CRV are very unlikely to be seized or in need of any maintenance at all. For you, maintenance is unlikely to extend much further than wiping off the dust and sanding/lubing the shims the pads ride on. Have you seen a "B" service indicated on your Maintenance Minder?
Where do you live? That's /extremely/ important.
To get at the pads and pins: Remove the caliper entirely by removing both bolts. Pull the caliper off the pads and hang it from the suspension spring using a bent-up piece of coat-hanger wire. Do not just remove the bottom bolt and swivel the caliper up; that action masks seizing pins.
To see whether a pin is sticking or not:
1) Use your fingers to grab the pin by its head, and see if it's possible to rotate it and move it in-and-out. It may take a bit of wiggling to get it to move, but if it eventually does, and smoothly, then it's not seized. 2) Pull the pin out until the rubber boot's corrugations are flat. The boot should NOT pop off the pin. You're not going to stretch the boot, just pull it enough to flatten the corrugations. Do this to all 4 pins. If the pins and boots pass both the tests above, then they are fine; leave them alone.As for the pads: Try to tip the pad out of its mounting bracket. If the pad swivels easily, then it is not seized. If you need to tug, or use a tool to make it move, then it's stuck.
To sand/lube the shim surfaces: Refer to my Web pages. The primary update I have not yet added concerns lubrication of the shim surfaces on the pad-mount bracket. The Web page shows the use of copper- based anti-seize in that location, which is OK if you live in an area with little snow. If you live in an area with lost of snow, Honda Canada Inc. (HCI) has a completely different regimen, one I discovered only a few months ago.
This fall, I followed HCI's procedures as outlined in "Service Letter" VI-1-09. "Service Letters" are HCI's equivalent of American Honda's TSB's. Luckily, we're having a very severe, snowy winter this year, so we're going to get a pretty good test of HCI's instructions.
What's the HCI procedure?
snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:iiv2c8$mt4$ snipped-for-privacy@theodyn.ncf.ca:
Clean the parts free of rust as usual, then...
Lightly coat the entire of both sides of all the anti-squeal shims, plus the back of the pad with Molykote M77--and ONLY M77, not anti-seize or any other substance.
Then you use the M77 to coat the surfaces on the mount bracket which the pads ride on, plus the shims that go between the pads and the mount bracket.
Care must be taken to ensure that M77 does not get on any of the friction surfaces.
The "before" pics in the "Service Letter" look exactly what I see every spring (see my site). The "after" pics look pretty nice.
snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:iiv2c8$mt4$1 @theodyn.ncf.ca:
That's not your real email address...
Hasn't that procedure been around for a long time? I remember Honda OEM pads (or was it new Honda OEM shims) came with a little packet of the M77 grease? I assume it was M77.
It has a heavy-duty spam filter.
snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:ij1jdd$nc0$1 @theodyn.ncf.ca:
I got a 550 user-unknown from your server.
snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:ij1j8g$n4v$ snipped-for-privacy@theodyn.ncf.ca:
Not the same, no.
The M77 with the pads was meant to be applied as a little dot in the middle of the pad shims. The new procedure calls for coating entire surfaces of multiple parts. You'd have to see the TSB.
Tegger wrote in news:Xns9E88BA894AEA0tegger@
208.90.168.18:
Just tried again...
Tegger wrote in news:Xns9E88BB6A8771Ategger@
208.90.168.18:
Okay. Not actually a 550, just a "blocked sender" (which would be me) despite the last line in the reply message from your server..
------ Here's the text of the reply from your server:
"This is the mail system at host smeagol.ncf.ca.
"I'm sorry to have to inform you that your message could not be delivered to one or more recipients. It's attached below.
"For further assistance, please send mail to
"If you do so, please include this problem report. You can delete your own text from the attached returned message.
" The mail system
": user unknown"
------
You want a copy of that TSB? Email me. tegger (at) tegger (dot) com
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