poll - high mileage civics, what oil U burn ?

Page 4 of 4  
Rob B wrote:


which i think is BS, like wendy's making hamburgers from worms. the safetykleen website makes no mention of it being an oil producer.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

But they do have REFINERIES. The site mentions that fact. <http://www.safetykleen.com/skcda/views/pages/channel/home.do ;jsessionid=DO8dT7YEsulFUGuZEqiKFctYdRX5EoTqKz6uhm0S2Y5fPB7VjDWe!1462935964?channel48b71d>
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TeGGeR wrote:

<http://www.safetykleen.com/skcda/views/pages/channel/home.do ;jsessionid=DO8dT7YEsulFUGuZEqiKFctYdRX5EoTqKz6uhm0S2Y5fPB7VjDWe!1462935964?channel48b71d>
interesting. yet, they dont list the finished product under "products".
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

This doesn't make sense: It was TeGGeR who argued that making "synthetic" from waste oil doesn't work BECAUSE OF THE HIGH COSTS OF CLEANING IT. Cleaning used oil, I responded, doesn't make synthetic oil. On the other hand, I believe it is economical to make motor oil by "rerefining" used oil. And if the used oil were ONLY synthetic then the "rerefined" oil would be synthetic oil.
.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

<snip>
I suspect a snippage problem here. The quote at top is mine. I was trying to illustrate to the OP that in order to make synthetic from used oil you'd need to clean it AND somehow separate the atoms and reassemble them correctly into a synthetic. If I left the impression that you could make "synthetic" just by cleaning old dino oil, that is not what I intended. My post shown above should show that.
Chemically, as I understand it, just about anything's possible, but not everything's economical.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This post is very long and has several quotes, which can be confusing. For those who want to skip it and to make it easier to find the end there is at the bottom a line like this (saying END OF KARL'S POST).
================= XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX ================

There is no quoting problem on my part; thank you. But snipping of pertinent information amounts to trickery:
TeGGeR substituted "<snip>" for,
> There is a misconception, more clearly expressed > in TeGGeR's message dated Tues, Jan 17 2006 12:18 > am: no matter how much is spent on cleaning "used" > oil it is not possible to make synthetic out of it. > This "interesting idea" is useless because it > doesn't work.
The "synthetic oil from used oil" issue started with a post by "T L via CarKB.com" in which he speculated whether Walmart's tech 2000 is "reconditioned used oil." "Rob B" then opined that sending used oil "back through a refinement process" would be a cheap way to get synthetic oil ("since it is engineered" he argues). Here are the first posts, including mine:

Here is TeGGeR's first post regarding the costs of refining used oil:

And here is TeGGeR's second post regarding the costs of refining used oil:

Clearly, "Rob B" explicitely talked of recycling, refinement, and cleansing of used oil to transform it into synthetic oil, and so did TeGGeR, who emphasized that it is "extremely expensive to recover post- consumer motor oil." It was only after my posting,

that TeGGeR talked of chemical transformation. He may had this in mind all the time but he didn't say so until later.
================= END OF KARL'S POST ================
.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

<snip>
Now that I think of it, what started it all was when the OP asserted that recovering used oil would provide a "cheap" base stock with which to make his "synthetic". I said it would hardly be a "cheap" way of getting ANY kind of base stock. I don't recall saying that the cost of cleaning was the only barrier to making synthetic from dino.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That is correct, you also mentioned the costs of collecting the oil. And what else you exactly wrote I documented in my previous post.
Fact is that the discussion was about turning used oil into synthetic by "cleaning" it. And if you remember it differently then quote the relevant posts.
.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<snip>

OK, you win. I guess I've killed too many memory cells with beer. It's not that important anyway.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
High Tech Misfit wrote:

Uh, if you can't or couldn't tell the difference between Castrol and the other two brands, it is beyond my capacity to help or educate you.
However, I do expect that Quaker State/Pennzoil may have cleaned up their act after a lot of bad publicity a few years ago...
JT
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

in the last few years and haven't had leaks on any of them, but three cars isn't what I'd call a lot of data, either.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I believe three "successes" out of three attempts actually does have a fair amount of statistical significance attached to it. It's even a little intuitive, IMO, that your little home study indicates it's probably safe (maybe very safe) to switch a high mileage car to synthetic.
The amateur (but fairly careful, all things considered) study to which I refer above appears at http://www-d0.fnal.gov/~jkrane/cars/synth_survey.html
Summary: 74 cars total -- Most of the cars studied had less than 100k miles. These produced two leakers, one easily fixed by proper tightening of various seal bolts. The second leaker demonstrated a bizarre single leak at the "fuel pump pivot pin."
-- Clearly the cars with over 100k miles were a minority of the sample, but not an insignificant one ISTM. They produced two leakers, both 1975 Porsche 911s. Both began to leak some 20k miles after the switch.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

i thought i had a leak but it turned out that i did spill more oil over the side than i though i did which explained where all the oil came from ( that is, i washed it off and it has not returned ) so i must be burning that missing oil which is about the same as yours 1/2 qt between changes

thinner than dino at high temps and that might be cause of oil leaks at the seals. But i do not know how much to believe that when the weight rating of the oil 5w30 (etc) should indicate the oil thinning behavior within some margin so that choosing the proper oil weight would make that a non-issue
then ther are the claims that all the additives to the dino oil (seal conditioners , viscosity improver etc) are what keep the seals healthy in the dino oil.
thanks for feedback robb
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
My 98 DX Hatch has 280,000KM, original PCV valve (everything else under the hood is still original...except timing belt, spark plug and air filter). The car's been a regular beater since new and usually kisses the Redline when in first or 2nd gear.
For the past 3 years, I've extended the oil change interval from every 5000km to every 15,000km. The car looses about a quart every 3000km (less when not driven aggressively or during winter). Since the Mobel-1 gets very expensive from constantly topping up (costing $8/quart), I've since switched to Mobel-1 0w40 (instead of 5w30), in the hopes that the heavier oil will reduce oil loss. It seems to work. In my last oil change, I did about 20,000km and only needed 2 quarts for topping up (normally, it should be twice as much).
The only downfall from having a base engine that's completely broken-in for aggressive driving, is that upgraded to a more power full GSR engine is unnecessary. I guess I'll have to content with the public's assumption that I have something much more powerful under the hood.
Pars
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
pars wrote:

is that the stuff that had a red cap, now its yellow? is it labelled "energy conserving", aka: has the starburst symbol?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
SoCalMike wrote:

Can't remember. I just did an oil change and decide to switch to 0w30 instead of 0w40 because of the winter. In spring, I'll switch back to the 0w40. The 0w30 has a black cap, but I don't recall any red caps for the 0w40.
I'll have to take a closer look at the bottle on my next oil change for the starburst symbol. From the bottle, the 0w40 was recommended for european cars and the 0w30 for high efficiency.
Pars
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
SoCalMike wrote:

Can't remember. I just did an oil change and decide to switch to 0w30 instead of 0w40 because of the winter. In spring, I'll switch back to the 0w40. The 0w30 has a black cap, but I don't recall any red caps for the 0w40.
I'll have to take a closer look at the bottle on my next oil change for the starburst symbol. From the bottle, the 0w40 was recommended for european cars and the 0w30 for high efficiency.
Pars
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My line of thinking is, if you change the oil, oil filter, and air filter at the recommended intervals, you should be fine. My previous car, an 88 Maxima SE, had 170K miles, never burned oil, never leaked any and never required any in between changes. It was changed about every 4K to 5K miles.
My current car, an 04 Accord EX, Honda recommends changing every 10K miles. I change mine every 5K. I currently have 68K miles on it, still going strong and hope to keep it that way.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That seems to be a prevailing consensus, properly changed dino oil and will keep the car going well into high mileage and i tend to agree
since my car is at 200K though and burning/loosing about 1/2 qt between changes and the oil comes out looking like liquid charcoal... i wonder if i need to do something extra special to counter the wear/tear that apparently has occured
i want to keep it going another 100k hopefully without major engine overhaul.
thanks for feedback robb
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Did you say what the condition of your PCV valve is?
If it's the original PCV valve, I would do the pinch test (with a cloth wrapped around the tube to the valve, pinch the tube shut. Listen at least 30 seconds for a click, indicating the valve is working at least somewhat). This will serve as a kind of benchmark. Still, even if it passes this test, I'd replace the valve. Twenty bucks or so. Buy only an OEM one.
Rob B. wrote: > since my car is at 200K though and burning/loosing about 1/2 qt between

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.