Re: 96 Civic question

: > Ok here goes, : > : > '96 civic DX 5 speed,I was driving into work this morning and had the : > wipers : > on,headlights and defog.My dash lights started (how do I explain this)
: > acting like they were almost blinking like my emergency lights.Headlights : > were doing the same thing.It was raining out at the time.I kinda think : > it's : > my alternator going up on me or the belts are loose.Any thoughts on : > this?Oh : > yeah the speedometer was jumping around like a monkey on crystal meth : > going : > from 20 to 100 to 30 to ...you get the picture. : > Thanks in advance, : > Will : > : The wide range of electrical symptoms points right to the battery, charging : system or grounds (or UFO, of course.) : : Most of the symptoms could be slipping belts, but I dunno about the : speedometer. Check the engine ground - probably a braided wire from the : valve cover to the frame near the radiator - for tightness at each end. : Really weird electrical problems always make me think of engine ground : first. As Remco suggests, from there it is checking the battery connections : and voltage. I also had a battery once that was intermittently open and : caused all sorts of problems while driving until I caught it in the act once : when I tried to start the car... no crank. But focus on the common stuff : first. : : Mike
I will check the ground,didn't think of that.You guys are the Einstein of Hondas.I did clean the terminals and battery and still have the same symptoms.I was told if you disconnect the positive side of the battery while it was running and it shut right down and that would suggest that the alternator is shot but I will STILL look at the ground to make sure all my bases are covered.As far as the alien thing is concerned they already ate my Buick.That's why I bought a Honda to replace it.For some odd reason they don't like Japanese metal or something.Well hell, here I am babbling about aliens eating my Buick and I still haven't looked at the gound yet.Thanks again for the help fellers! Git 'er done :)
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You didn't actually disconnect the positive, did you? Alternators don't generate clean voltages by themselves and the battery actually filters this to its normally seen 14.5 volts. The high spikes from the generator can take out other components. (ecm, etc)
In old cars, the electronics used to not be very sensitive and could take these spikes so that was the trick to determine whether the alternator is working. The new cars' electronics are a lot more sensitive t voltage spikes so I hope you didn't do damage pulling the positive lead off...
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: You didn't actually disconnect the positive, did you? Alternators don't : generate clean voltages by themselves and the battery actually filters : this to its normally seen 14.5 volts. : The high spikes from the generator can take out other components. (ecm, : etc) : : In old cars, the electronics used to not be very sensitive and could : take these spikes so that was the trick to determine whether the : alternator is working. The new cars' electronics are a lot more : sensitive t voltage spikes so I hope you didn't do damage pulling the : positive lead off... :
Yeah I did that.Hopefully it hasn't caused any damage.The big question I have now is: Ok Now that I have the alternator disconnected from the wiring and the hardware ,how the FUCK do I get the sonofabitch out of the engine crate?I tried 15 ways to sunday to do it and the only alternative I see is to pull my master brake cylinder.Any suggestions?This is trying to drive me nuts ok,I am at wits end at this point.
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It comes out from below: I've gotten it out by jacking the car up and removing the front driver's tire. It may be tight, but there's just enough space to get it out.
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: It comes out from below: : I've gotten it out by jacking the car up and removing the front : driver's tire. It may be tight, but there's just enough space to get it : out.
Thanks man I got it out.Had to finagle it thru the shroud and stuff and it was definitely tight but I got it. Sorry for the use of expletives in my prior post.
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Glad you got it. In the use of expletives the repair manuals are just seriously lacking :)
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: Glad you got it. : In the use of expletives the repair manuals are just seriously lacking : :)
No doubt in my mind.They make it look so cut and dry then when it's time to do it............Fuggetaboutit!
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To test the alternator run the engine at about 1500-2000 rpm with all electrical off. Voltage should be around 14.5 volts. Turn headlights and other electrical on and watch voltage. It should hold around the 13.5 to 14.5 volt area. If you have added a lot of high power consuming devices (large subwoofer) don't turn these on. The battery could still be bad with an internal loose connection and intermittently show good. I had one this way and it blew the top off when I hit the starter. This can cause lots of electrical noise and the indication seen.

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