Replace or clean EGR?

2001 EX-V6 Accord with 170,000 miles. Just got a P0401 code. The check engine light went out on it's own (TCS light was also on when this occurred)
then lit up again a week later.
Trying to find information on the procedure for cleaning the EGR. Not much out there. Found 1 article stating special tools are required. http://www.faqfarm.com/Q/How_do_you_clean_or_replace_the_EGR_in_Honda_Accord_2000_V6_2_Dr
Anybody attempt this with the standard tools one might find in a typical home garage? Trying to determine if I should attempt this myself or just buy a new EGR. They're expensive ($200 plus) but maybe not depending on how much effort it takes to clean and drill it out and what the special reamer costs, especially if I'm only going to use it one.
Any insight from those experienced in this would be appreciated.
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http://www.faqfarm.com/Q/How_do_you_clean_or_replace_the_EGR_in_Honda_Accord_2000_V6_2_Dr
http://www.98exl.com/tsb/CG/99-085%20-%20Accord%20Warranty%20Extension%20EGR%20Port%20Clogging.pdf
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bbtaco wrote:

http://www.98exl.com/tsb/CG/99-085%20-%20Accord%20Warranty%20Extension%20EGR%20Port%20Clogging.pdf
This won't do the OP any good. The extended warranty is good for only 80,000 miles, but this Accord has 170,000 miles on it.
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Original Poster: Did you mean the valve itself? Or only the ports and passageways?
I have a follow-up question for the masses out there: I had the same prob where insufficient EGR Flow causes this P0401 code and we know the fix for it, but I was told that over time if not remedied it will fail the EGR valve...on the other hand I've also been told that these EGR valves pretty much never fail? Well do they? And is this true?
Kevin
High Tech Misfit wrote:

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Well I'm not really sure. I only have the error code and what the Service Bulletin says to do as a reference at this point. Based on the wording of the error messsage, "Insufficient airflow" I would take that to mean the ports and passageways. I guess when I get in there we'll see how hard it is to clean.

Well I went 170k without that service ever being performed. We'll see what condition the valve is in after I attempt to clean it.
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But the detailed instructions on what they do are there, so it's a good start.
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That is why I sent the link, you mentioned possibly trying to do it yourself. Our '99 Accord had this done at around 70,000 miles by the dealer's service department.
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Seth wrote:

Is the procedure essentially the same for a '98 Odyssey EX?
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http://www.98exl.com/tsb/CG/99-085%20-%20Accord%20Warranty%20Extension%20EGR%20Port%20Clogging.pdf
Well, it's too late for me warranty wise, but that's the instructions on doing the entire service.
Thanks
But I don't think I'll go through all of that, especially the drilling. Looks a little beyond what I think I'm willing to go through, I may just use these instructions to get at the valve itself and try cleaning it out with some pipe cleaners and a little carb cleaner. Vehicle went 170k without being drilled, a good cleaning should buy me a lot more time.
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Seth wrote:

cleaning the valve may help a little, but the core of the problem is the carbon buildup in the manifold, and drilling /is/ the factory solution.
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bbtaco wrote:

http://www.98exl.com/tsb/CG/99-085%20-%20Accord%20Warranty%20Extension%20EGR%20Port%20Clogging.pdf
Thank you so much!
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Seth wrote:

http://www.faqfarm.com/Q/How_do_you_clean_or_replace_the_EGR_in_Honda_Accord_2000_V6_2_Dr
Before you start drilling, make sure the EGR valve or control unit isn't having problems. Insufficient vacuum or a leaky diaphragm might produce the same code. (I don't know that for sure!)
Basic troubleshooting is straightforward. Get one of those hand vacuum pumps with a vac meter. Insert a 'T' fitting and monitor the the vacuum being provided to the valve while the car is in motion. Then remove the valve and use the pump to pull vac on the unit. Observe its motion, and watch for leaks. Note how much vac is required to lift the valve, and compare to the control box output. The system may not need full lift, but the valve should be at least partially open when the car is running.
Also, check the rate of vacuum application. I chased my tail for several weekends troubleshooting a constricted EGR solenoid passage. The vac would arrive, and the valve would get opened, but not quickly enough to keep the ECU happy.
If all this is working, then start thinking about drilling and reaming....
-Greg
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All that is great but the problem is a common and well documented problem on that engine. Honda drilled the port out and installed a coated sleeve to correct the problem. The only way to fix it is to remove the manifold and clean out the port. He could probably get the kit with sleeve from a dealer and have a dealer or mechanic install it if he does not have the ability to do it....

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Woody wrote:

Excuse me...
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