Rust proofing

Good day,
As mentioned in a previous post, just bought a 2008 civic. Would anyone who has experience with being in a 'rust belt' area please tell me their
experiences with rust proofing companies? I turned down the service from the dealer, and want to take it somewhere like Rust Check or get it Crowned.
Let me know... Thanks t
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I use Krown, but either should be OK.
The stuff is amazing. I recommend it wholeheartely.
Four caveats: 1) It cannot protect where it cannot remain on the surface. This means it can't protect against rust in the windshield pinchweld, and it cannot protect from stone chip rust. It also cannot protect jacking points which have had the paint chipped off of them. 2) It tends to swell rubber seals, like door weatherstripping and that at the front of the hood. Eventually over many years the seals will swell to the point where they buckle and come loose from their plastic clips. A wrecking yard is a good cheap source for replacement rubbers. 3) As a consequence of the absorption that causes #2, trunk and door seals tend to stick, making opening that panel a bit difficult. Use some Sil- Glyde or other silicone grease on the rubber to prevent sticking. 4) They do drill holes for access, and those holes do not rust /provided/ you give them a shot of Rust Check "Seal & Protect" one in a while.
I use Krown T30 and T40 spray cans for touch-up in various spots, such as the fender bottoms. I use Rust Check "Seal & Protect" (green can) for the windshield pinchweld under the rubber gaskets. I use Cosmoline to smear the jack points so they won't rust.
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Dont do it!
Ten years ago I wouldn't have taken my own advice
I loath salt on highways. I live 5 miles south of Lake Erie which is the salt capital of North America if not the world. There are huge salt mines under Lake Erie, and around here they start salting the roads days before it snows and even on the rumor of snow.
I have a 98 Civic. For the first 8 years, I parked the car in November and drove a 90 Dodge Omni which was my sacrificial anode.
Those are my bona fides as a salt-hater. My evidence against rust-proofing: I have a friend with a 97 Dodge Neon with zero rust-proofing. It also only has paint on about 65% of the car. The rest of the car is primer because the paint fell off the car because of a problem at the factory paint shop. The car has been driven every year in the salt-brine and there is not yet one speck of rust. The car companies have made tremendous improvements in materials and methods. Additional rust-proofing is no longer necessary.
loewent via CarKB.com wrote:

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Yep. Absolutely.
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most of these places also try to sell you on the fact that the treatment reduces roadnoise by over 50%. Any validity to this?
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:

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The old undercoating was considered a sound proofing compound. I always use it on cars that I restore.
If you really want to get rid of a lot of road noise, take out the seats, carpet etc and lay down a layer of fiberglas. You'll be amazed at the difference.
Another is to use a "stick on" material though I cannot remember the name but it's used extensively on vehicles with one zillion watt sound systems. It's pretty pricy too...
JT
loewent via CarKB.com wrote:

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That's the waxy, rubbery or tarry rustproofing. Do not buy that stuff. Drippy only.
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wrote:

I agree , total waste of money . From what I understand , holes drilled may even cause rust . I live in Michigan , 15 miles North East of Detroit , around here streets are loaded with salt . Vehicles don't rust anymore , at least in any reasonable peroid of time .
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You guys aren't paying much attention...
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Depends what you call reasonable; my 92 civic is getting rusty in the rear quarters, as apparently all civics of this model and approximate age. to me, that's early, given that the mechanicals are still highly functional and other troubles have been reparable.
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z wrote:

That's what you get for buying a Honda in big-3 country (now called the Detroit 3 or better yet, the Michigan-3 - not all big-3 companies are based in Detroit).
Jeff
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Wrong-o.
Fatal rust starts from the INSIDE, where moisture gets a chance to spend lots of time consuming the zinc coatings the factory applies. And once that's gone, oxygen attacks the bare steel. "Drippy" rustproofing keeps oxygen away even when there's no zinc, and helps prevent the zinc from being eroded.
Also, water creeps into crimps and pinchwelds, then freezes there. This forces the surfaces apart, compromising the factory's efforts, exposing raw steel. "The "drippy" stuff prevents this too.
"Drippy" rustproofings like Rust Check and Krown are nothing like what you have in the US
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That's funny.
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I havent bothered rustproofing the vehicles Ive owned. Live west of Chicago with plenty of salting. Ive had a bought new 87 Ford Escort for 9 years 105000m no rust. A bought new 97 Ford Probe GT for 9 years 96000m no rust. A bought new 95 Pontiac Gran-AM that we still have 92000m no rust. A 05 Honda Pilot no rust this thing hardly sees the road however just 5100 miles after 2 years. Maybe I just dont keep them long enough for the rust to start showing.
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I had WaxOyl applied on a new car ca. 1982; trouble was, you had to get it inspected every year to keep the warranty up; then by the time I found some rust they weren't that interested in keeping me as a happy customer any more. Kind of like most insurance-type businesses, i guess.
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What about that little black electronic gadget thats wired into your 12v system and is suppose to repel rust? Anyone have one? Think it costs acouple hundred bucks

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according to posters here, its snakeoil.
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loewent via CarKB.com wrote:

Hi, DITTO!
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