I use Krown, but either should be OK.
The stuff is amazing. I recommend it wholeheartely.
1) It cannot protect where it cannot remain on the surface. This means it
can't protect against rust in the windshield pinchweld, and it cannot
protect from stone chip rust. It also cannot protect jacking points which
have had the paint chipped off of them.
2) It tends to swell rubber seals, like door weatherstripping and that at
the front of the hood. Eventually over many years the seals will swell to
the point where they buckle and come loose from their plastic clips. A
wrecking yard is a good cheap source for replacement rubbers.
3) As a consequence of the absorption that causes #2, trunk and door seals
tend to stick, making opening that panel a bit difficult. Use some Sil-
Glyde or other silicone grease on the rubber to prevent sticking.
4) They do drill holes for access, and those holes do not rust /provided/
you give them a shot of Rust Check "Seal & Protect" one in a while.
I use Krown T30 and T40 spray cans for touch-up in various spots, such as
the fender bottoms. I use Rust Check "Seal & Protect" (green can) for the
windshield pinchweld under the rubber gaskets. I use Cosmoline to smear the
jack points so they won't rust.
Dont do it!
Ten years ago I wouldn't have taken my own advice
I loath salt on highways. I live 5 miles south of Lake Erie which is
the salt capital of North America if not the world. There are huge
salt mines under Lake Erie, and around here they start salting the roads
days before it snows and even on the rumor of snow.
I have a 98 Civic. For the first 8 years, I parked the car in November
and drove a 90 Dodge Omni which was my sacrificial anode.
Those are my bona fides as a salt-hater. My evidence against rust-proofing:
I have a friend with a 97 Dodge Neon with zero rust-proofing. It also only
has paint on about 65% of the car. The rest of the car is primer
paint fell off the car because of a problem at the factory paint shop.
The car has been
driven every year in the salt-brine and there is not yet one speck of
The car companies have made tremendous improvements in materials and
Additional rust-proofing is no longer necessary.
loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
The old undercoating was considered a sound proofing compound. I always
use it on cars that I restore.
If you really want to get rid of a lot of road noise, take out the
seats, carpet etc and lay down a layer of fiberglas. You'll be amazed at
Another is to use a "stick on" material though I cannot remember the
name but it's used extensively on vehicles with one zillion watt sound
systems. It's pretty pricy too...
loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
I agree , total waste of money . From what I understand , holes drilled may
even cause rust . I live in Michigan , 15 miles North East of Detroit ,
around here streets are loaded with salt . Vehicles don't rust anymore , at
least in any reasonable peroid of time .
Depends what you call reasonable; my 92 civic is getting rusty in the
rear quarters, as apparently all civics of this model and approximate
age. to me, that's early, given that the mechanicals are still highly
functional and other troubles have been reparable.
Fatal rust starts from the INSIDE, where moisture gets a chance to spend
lots of time consuming the zinc coatings the factory applies. And once
that's gone, oxygen attacks the bare steel. "Drippy" rustproofing keeps
oxygen away even when there's no zinc, and helps prevent the zinc from
Also, water creeps into crimps and pinchwelds, then freezes there. This
forces the surfaces apart, compromising the factory's efforts, exposing raw
steel. "The "drippy" stuff prevents this too.
"Drippy" rustproofings like Rust Check and Krown are nothing like what you
have in the US
I havent bothered rustproofing the vehicles Ive owned. Live west of
Chicago with plenty of salting. Ive had a bought new 87 Ford Escort for
9 years 105000m no rust. A bought new 97 Ford Probe GT for 9 years
96000m no rust. A bought new 95 Pontiac Gran-AM that we still have
92000m no rust. A 05 Honda Pilot no rust this thing hardly sees the road
however just 5100 miles after 2 years.
Maybe I just dont keep them long enough for the rust to start showing.
I had WaxOyl applied on a new car ca. 1982; trouble was, you had to
get it inspected every year to keep the warranty up; then by the time
I found some rust they weren't that interested in keeping me as a
happy customer any more. Kind of like most insurance-type businesses,
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