something weird going on here?

yatabata wrote in news:971752_ snipped-for-privacy@autoboardz.com:

Remove the head once more. Flatten a bit of plasticine on the piston tops so it covers only the areas where the valves might come close to the pistons (maybe 1/16" thick).

Crank the engine over by hand four full revolutions. Remove head. Observe dents in plasticine.

that's a lot of work to figure out the timing belt's not been set right

- i'd check for that "gotcha!" first.

jim beam wrote in news:uM2dnQLmCfF3nV_YnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

You're right of course.

I think I was confusing this thread with a similar one somewhere else where the OP had rebuilt the engine and ended up wuth the same problem.

got into it today again after work and adjusted all the valves but when hand cranking again hearing the same noise. then before starting to remove rocker assy. and cam to see if they installed the right parts tried something else. took the timing belt back off and rotated the crank. heading same noise? I think the noise is coming from the bent timing tab that was bent down when breaking loose the crank bolt. I think the tab is hitting something at the bottom end of the rotation. If that is it about the only way to bend it back up through that small witness hole is with a slide hammer with a stong hook whatever on the end. question now is has anybody had the same problem and is this how that fixed the problem too?

"yatabata" wrote: > Just replaced the head on my 89 honda accord and rotating the > crank sounds like the valves are hitting the pistons? called > the shop I bought the head from and they are kinda stumped > too? I put the number one cylinder up and valves little tight > so loosened up so the .006 will fit and the .011 on the > exhaust. will go through the rest of the 4 cylinders and check > again for this noise/tapping. after that wonder if they > somehow installed the wrong valves? have any suggestions > thanks.

turned out I was right. It was the timing plate the was bent and causing the noise. a friend had a home made slide hammer with a hook on the end which worked getting it back up and stopped the contact that was causing the noise when rotating the crank. started it today and noise gone now. on to putting the belts covers ect. back on to complete the job now. for you all who have problems like this let me know and can hopefully help. :P

"yatabata" wrote: > Just replaced the head on my 89 honda accord and rotating the > crank sounds like the valves are hitting the pistons? called > the shop I bought the head from and they are kinda stumped > too? I put the number one cylinder up and valves little tight > so loosened up so the .006 will fit and the .011 on the > exhaust. will go through the rest of the 4 cylinders and check > again for this noise/tapping. after that wonder if they > somehow installed the wrong valves? have any suggestions > thanks.

i would be very cautious about that repair. you many not be able to hear anything right now, but there's a good chance that there's still something rubbing and potentially fraying your timing belt. the safe choice is to strip down and /replace/ whatever it is you bent.

Thanks for your response back but maybe I didn?t make myself care as to what was bent. The timing plate is on the other end and the timing belt is on the end with the pulley and crank. The timing plate is no reason to remove anything unless it breaks off then the oil pan would have to be removed to get it out.

"yatabata" wrote: > Just replaced the head on my 89 honda accord and rotating the > crank sounds like the valves are hitting the pistons? called > the shop I bought the head from and they are kinda stumped > too? I put the number one cylinder up and valves little tight > so loosened up so the .006 will fit and the .011 on the > exhaust. will go through the rest of the 4 cylinders and check > again for this noise/tapping. after that wonder if they > somehow installed the wrong valves? have any suggestions > thanks.

the toothed pulley the crank turns for the timing belt comes off in your hand - no need to pull the oil pan to replace anything. it's still not clear exactly what you bent, but whatever it is, it's your call what you do next: reliability or taking a chance on bent valves? seems like an easy choice to me.