Speaker-Eating dashboard?

Page 1 of 2  
My Mazda 626 seems to have an appetite for speakers. I have replaced the passenger's side front speaker for the third time a couple weeks ago, and already it's buzzing like a bee is trapped in it.
The speakers installed are capable of MORE than the rated wattage of the JVC Cd player (~22 Watts per channel, speakers are 50W or more) All the other speakers work great, including the Driver's side dash replaced in January as a set with the one that went bad a couple weeks ago.
There aren't any leaks, there doesn't appear to be any 'stray magentism' anywhere around, no obstructions or protrusions of any type into the speaker area.
I'm out of 'inexpensive' speakers (the last one that blew was a Clarion, not the most expensive, but not a cheapo by any means...) Connections are tight.
Usually audio problems don't throw me, but this one has me stumped.
Any ideas?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Find a cheap speaker, hook if up electrically but don't install it physically. Just extend the wires and leave it somewhere in the car to figure out whether it is related to the physical installation or a short from the radio.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 10:20:54 +0000, Art wrote:

All good suggestions!

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Except for one thing: A speaker without an enclosure will produce pretty much zero bass, which will tempt you to turn it up and fry it. Find a cardboard box about the size of a small bookshelf speaker. Seal it well with tape, cut a hole that's right for the speaker, and use speed clips over the edges of the hole for securing the speaker.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 01 Jul 2007 13:03:03 +0000, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

I have wooden 'test boxes' I use for testing speakers/radios. No Problem!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hachiroku wrote:

50W continuous? I have some 2' tall floor speakers rated for 50W music power but only 1W continous (instructions said not to exceed 8V, peak-to-peak, for more than 2-3 minutes).

If you don't blast them at high power all day, about the only electrical thing that usually ruins speakers in a hurry is DC from the amplifier. Switch a digital voltage meter to read DC volts and see if there's more than about 0.1Vdc across the amp terminals (an analog meter won't work for this). Don't measure to chassis ground because I think that most car stereos now use two floating outputs (an easy way to get higher power without higher power supply voltage).
Have you tried pressing the speaker cone to see that it moves in and out without binding? Some of my Ford factory speakers (base audio system) that scraped the magnet when moved also buzzed, but I had a Ford radio cause a buzz because of some power supply problem (I think it was the power supply that drove the LCD).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 04:25:25 -0700, larry moe 'n curly wrote:

The last one I pulled worked flawlessly!
I'll try the meter thing, but I'm also on my second head unit. I upgraded the one in the Supra and pulled that one for this car.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

You need more power. A good rule of thumb is that the amp should be rated at 2 times the speaker rating. This prevents clipping which speakers apaprt.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

you sure about that? it's true that distortion tears up speakers, and an underpowered amp can lead people to crank the volume up beyond clipping, but i've never heard it suggested that the amp be rated for more power than the speakers.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 07:17:59 -0700, Smitty Two

Very, very common in the high-end and pro audio worlds.
You get two bonuses. Headroom, which can do wonders for clarity, and no clipping which prevents your speakers from dealing with DC.
There's not much that speakers hate more than DC, which happens to be 0 Hz. (drive it all the way in or out and hold it there!) except maybe water. <G>
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Smitty Two wrote:

Have you ever listened to a *continuous* 22 watts, let alone 50? You don't want to....
Driving a low-powered amp into clipping, yes. But clipping kills tweeters first, then mids and eventually it *could* kill the woofers.
Overpowering a speaker usually kills the woofers first *IF* you can stand the level and the racket of the woofer cones overextending and having the coils hit the magnets.
High amounts of DC voltage usually "cooks" the coils.
Someone else's idea of putting in a "cheap as possible" speaker is a start, but since the dead speaker's mate is a known good speaker, use it instead. If it stays alive, you'll have to chalk this pair of failures up to Murphy.
FWIW, I was a tech in a hi-end audio shop and we were known to do intentional speaker-killing at times.. under "controlled conditions" you know..
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 18:40:58 -0700, nobody > wrote:

Shoot...have you ever listened to a continuous *ONE* watt?!?! % watts true RMS is enough to drive you...OUT of the car!

This is my THIRD speaker in this position!

Oh Boy! Where do I sign up!?!?!?!
I used to do testing for Underwriter's Laboratory certification at one place where I worked. We made OEM power supplies; one of our products was for a 'secret' project for IBM back in 1982...
At any rate, I would drip water into the power supplies, throw shorts into various circuits, disable the safety circuits and THEN throw shorts into the circuits, throw the switching section into overload, etc etc. I had what looked like a motorcycle sheild in front of me to catch sparks and capacitor spew...
Ah, how I long for the Good Ol' Days... ;)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If the one side is failing, swap the good and bad speakers. does the bad speaker become good? and the good speaker turn bad? is the stereo properly grounded?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What size are these speakers?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 15:05:07 +0000, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

5"
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

In my situation it seemd to follow about the 3rd time my teen borrowed the car...every time. I'm sure you know that distortion will kill a speaker as quick as power. This one seemed to think the volume had to be on max for it to work at all.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 00:52:21 +0000, Kerry wrote:

It doesn't?! ;)
(He don't know me too well...)
I have a JVC headunit in my Supra, powering a 100Wx4 channel amp, and 4 100W MB Quarts at each corner. Since the roof comes off the car, I wanted something I could hear over the road and wind noise.
3rd year and no problem! I rarely have problems with my installations. That's why this is so perplexing.
But, I am a bass player, so I want to HEAR the bass. It's just odd that it's always this one speaker! The left front has been in there since I took the original pair out. I always replace with 4 ohm speakers so the balance is correct all the way around.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You're asking for something that's *just about* physically impossible from 5" speakers in imperfect enclosures (doors). Here's an experiment you might want to try, though. I have been told that Radio Shack sells a decibel meter that reasonably accurate. With the car's top off, and no Harley or 18 wheeler nearby to add noise, measure how many decibels of noise there are just driving down the road with the radio off. I think you'll find that it's pretty close to 100db, especially with the wind in certain directions relative to the car.
To make enough clean, tight bass to overcome that noise if it existed in a bar, you'd want a lot more power than you have. You'd have larger speakers, and the enclosures would be designed for those speakers. I'm also a bass player, so don't debate this, OK?
By the way, what's the brand and model of your car amp?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 13:57:47 +0000, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

But...but...I get a MUCH better sound out of my Ampeg SVT 4-10" than I do out of my 2-15" Fender! I just have the Fender 'cause it weighs 50 LBS less!

Genuine Optimus! They were blowing them out when RadShack got out of the car stereo business. I got it for $30 NIB...
Yeah, not the best. But it's not the Supra that's chewing the speakers, it's the Mazda. The Supra sounds *GREAT*! (MB Quarts all around help, and these ones DIDN'T separate from the frames! ;)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

OK. Save me from having to read back through the clutter again. In the Mazda, what is powering the speakers? Brand & model of amp, please.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.