They used the hose clamp to compress the clip (snap) ring on the
transmission end of the axle shaft. I suppose the theory is that this makes
it easier to plug the axle back into the transmission. You compress the clip
ring using the clamp. As you slide the axle shaft back into the
transmission, the clamp slides down the splines as the snap ring moves into
the transmission gears and eventually "snaps out" to retain the axle. I've
only done a few axles but never needed to do anything like this. Usually the
axles can be bumped back into the transmission without an aide like this.
I've never actually had to do the CV joints on a Honda, so maybe this is a
Honda specific trick.
once it starts making its clacking noise in turns, yes. but if you
catch it before then, and clean it properly [which isn't easy], you can
indeed replace the boot and successfully repair the driveshaft.
ideally though, you should replace the boot before it breaks - regular
inspection allows you to see cracking and how serious it is before it
breaks on the road and allows joint-killing grit to intrude.
it's not supposed to remain there - it's to compress the retaining ring
and hold it closed so you can reassemble the joint. [then it's supposed
to be removed!] the retaining ring is sprung out and is too large to
pop into place otherwise. and the rzeppa joint carrier doesn't have
ramps on it that would allow insertion without a ring compressor - an
oversight in my opinion.
if you mean that notchy "clunk" each time it was getting caught in the
joint, yes it was.
junk. that is a dead joint i cleaned up for the photo.
it's a pet peeve of mine that people don't pay attention to joint boots
and just keep driving them till the joint is unrepairable. if you have
the tools, which really aren't very expensive and which pay for
themselves in just one use, boot replacement is quick, simple, and cheap
on a shaft like this. and a damned sight better than cheapo chinese
aftermarket replacement shafts that last barely 30k before their soft
poorly fitting innards start to tear themselves apart. provided they're
not gritted, the joints on oem honda driveshafts can last hundreds of
thousands of miles - just keep an eye on the boots and replace those
boots when they've started to crack. correctly prepared, it takes an
hour from wheel off to wheel back on.
I don't take the wheels off on VWs unless they are alloys and they are
such that you can't access the hub nut just by popping off a hub cap.
Of course, I haven't had to service a CV joint in ages. Last time I
had one go bad must have been around 2004-ish.
That works on a VW because they bolt the front half shafts to a stub axle
coming out of the tranmsission. Most Japanese and US cars "plug" the half
shafts directly into the transmission. For these you can't get the axle out
of the transmisison unless you release the front upright from the lower
suspension arm so that you can get enough clearance to pull the axle out of
the transmission. You can't release the upright from the lower suspension
member unless you take off the wheel. I like the VW system better.
Ironically, the last time I had to replace a CV joint boot it was on a VW
and that was around 1995 (when my Sister sold her VW and bought a Honda).
You're welcome to the VW system with its internal star bolts that freeze
solid and strip the star wrenches. I'll take the Hondas every time. It
might take longer on a Honda than on a VW whose bolts have not yet
frozen but the Hondas can be *reliably* disassembled irrespective of age
and you won't need to replace any tools trying to do just one side.
(On the other hand, the VW brake proportioning system--at least on early
90's Jettas--is both breathtakingly simple and simply brilliant. Go
if it's fwd, you don't need to take the wheels off. just set the
steering on lock, look at the now exposed boot, then reverse and check
the other side. couldn't be easier.
the whole point is that you shouldn't "wait for them to go". if you do
the boot when it's evidencing cracking, but before it tears, you don't
have to replace the joints. tools to do the job are cheaper than a new
cv joint, and boots are cheap too.
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