You sure you don't mean '75? The CVCC didn't appear until then. I remember
the big hullabaloo CVCC made back then.
Hmmm. Having actually driven a '73 Civic (the first year sold in Canada), I
can attest to several things:
1) the pedals are offset to the right relative to the steering wheel;
2) the steering wheel itself is tilted slightly to the right;
3) the rear seat holds two, if they are very very small or are willing to
sit with their legs on an angle (much like a '70's Camaro...);
4) the shifter is rubbery and vague;
5) the car is tiny, not like the BMC Mini, but pretty close;
6) the interior is very black in a cheap, shiny, vinyl-y sort of way;
7) the car is slow and buzzy, but paradoxically has lots of torque steer.
Way back...way back when...I drove a Civic and I drove a Corolla. I bought
the Corolla. The Civic was not impressive. At the time, the Corolla seemed
more like a /real/ car. At least the Corolla had an actual trunk that held
a reasonable number of actual grocery bags.
We called it a CVCC, because it said "Honda" and "CVCC" on the back. It had
the air cooled motorcycle "V2" (as we called it) engine. The shifter came
out of the dash, and you could take the keys out of the ignition while the
car was on (which was REALLY weird the first time my friend did it).
Searching around, maybe it was a Z600 - can't find a picture of the back end
of one I can see well enough to be sure, though.
"Tegger" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Maybe - I remember a hatchback, more than that "trunk." From what I could
find today, the Z600 was a hatchback of the N600.
But the front end picture is dead on. Except that one actually has some
shine to the paint...
How about removing the seat and installing a flat piece of metal on each
side where the seat would normally bolt down. Drill the necessary holes in
it farther back and bolting the seat to that. Either that, or drive bare
I had the same idea Forrest. On the drivers left there would be no problem
because the seat sits on posts. On the right however, the rail itself is
bolted to the floor, therefore I'd have to drill into the metal and the
floor to allow for room for the bolts. What do you think?
Well, not knowing exactly what it looks like, it's hard to say. Could you
not, bolt the rail to the piece of metal with the bolt heads on the bottom,
nuts on top. Then drill new holes through both the metal and the rail, the
correct distance apart, to be able to bolt down into the existing floor
nut/receptacles ..... (where they are now bolted down to). I guess if you
did that, you would probably want to use another nut under each bolt,
between the metal strip and the floor, so as to keep things level and not
bend it where it bolts to the floor. As I said, I don't know what it really
looks like, so I'm just taking a shot in the dark.
i think you need to pull back the carpet and see what the mounting
points are really like - they're not simply holes in the floor. on my
hondas, they're specially reinforced and designed to mitigate fatigue,
including inserts inside the stiffening boxes that go under the car. if
you move the seat rails, you have a whole load of work to do to retain
oem quality, and it'll be /real/ expensive since you don't have access
to a lot of this stuff as the chassis is welded together /after/ the
inserts are positioned.
as a tall person myself, the best solution is to either wear thin-soled
shoes for driving, or buy a crx. while not huge on head room, the leg
room on the crx is crazy - it's too much for me, and i have a 35" inseam.
I'm 6'2", and I can't count how many times someone's expressed surprise
that I can fit comfortably in a CRX. I'm not sure just how tall someone
would have to be to use up the available leg room in one, but it's quite
a bit more than I'll ever need.
Wish I could say the same for an S2000 - I can just barely fit in one
with the seat all the way back, but I've never tried it with the top up.
And in my Alfa-owning days, I used to lust after a GTA, until I tried to
squeeze into one and realized that the only way I'd ever actually drive
it was if I could manage to get comfortable with the steering wheel
wedged tightly against the tops of my thighs.
Just be advised and aware that ANY of these seat relocation methods will
very likely void any of the manufacturer's liability for the proper
performance of safety systems. In addition, any mounting should be done
with the proper hardware with adequate load distributing backing plates.
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