Valves adjusted every 30,000 miles?

I read in this newsgroup that the valves in a CR-V needed to be adjusted every 30,000 miles? Does it say this in the manual? Can a DIY do it? What about an independent shop?
Thanks
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Yes, yes (with the right tool) and yes.
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Does this mean that current Honda 4 cyl engines all have mechanical lifters? I'm surprised. I thought just about all modern engines used hydraulic lifters with no periodic adjustments. I haven't owned a car that required valve adjustments in a long time--I'm talking about old British cars like Austin Healeys, MG's, MiniCoopers(original version) etc.
Ken
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:

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Kenneth J. Harris wrote:

all d and b series honda engines use mechanical lifters. mechanical offer advantages at high rpm's, and hydraulics are only really necessary on vehicles that have poor initial build quality and/or sustain high rates of wear.
the only time you really need to stay on top of a honda valve adjustment is if the valves run at sustained high temperatures - the cr-v is such a case. i find my civic benefits from the 30k schedule too, but i frequently run it at 9/10ths and i'm sure the valves get a bit warm. used civics i've bought from more normal drivers have had valve lash within spec after more than 100k without adjustment.

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Thanks for the info. Appreciate it!
jim beam wrote:

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Nino Nospam wrote:

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It only applies to the Gen 1, which means '97 through '01. It's the Integra engine. Set them to the loose side of the specs, since they are prone to tighten.
'Curly'
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ANY competent place can do this, DIY is a piece of cake.
You don't necessarily need to *adjust* them every 30K, but you do need to *check* them. Mine get checked once a year (by me). This year they were all still within spec on last year's adjustment. Engine has 277,000 miles.
If you change your oil often, the valve clearances will be very stable, even with sustained high revs. Honda builds nice engines.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Can you please tell me what tools and how do I do it?
Thanks

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You'd best buy a good shop manual. It's a bit complex to tell here.
Two tips: 1) Get a torque wrench and do NOT overtighten ANYthing! 2) Turn engine so cam lobes on the cylinder you're checking are pointing skywards. Ignore the official method of lining up the cam pulley marks.
--
TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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And don't use the starter to turn the engine. Use a socket on the crankshaft bolt so you don't zap your ignition coil - http://tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badcoil
Mike
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Nino Nospam wrote:

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On a gen 1 CR-V, you need a 12mm combination wrench for the adjuster lock nuts, a 10 mm socket for the valve cover, a 14 mm socket for the PS hose clamp, a thick slot-blade screwdriver and a set of feeler gauges.
http://www.hondasuv.com/crv/viewtopic.php?t 2
If anything, aim for the loose side, but before you start adjusting, CHECK them all, and write down what you find.
Engine must be stone cold, so you can't drive it into the shop. You have to let it cool down where it's going to be worked on. (doubtful many dealers are careful about that one).
'Curly'
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My 2003 CR-V has a 16-Valve-i-VTEC engine. Is that a gen 1? Also, what symptoms should I look or listen for if the valves are off? Do I need to remove the valve cover?
Thanks!

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No. Gen2. You have the K24 engine, not the older B20.

No symptoms (at first!) from the dangerous condition of inadequate clearances. By the time you sense anything your wallet will be so light it will float out of your pocket!

Yes. There is no way around that. The valves are hiding under there, concealing their dark secrets...
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TeGGeR

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Anybody get this from amazon? It looks like an exact knockoff of the 60 dollar honda one. I've done well with box wrench and screwdriver but I might get it for 13 bux.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)62661066/ref=sr_1_1/002-4869730-3297619?ie=UTF8&s=hi
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MAT wrote:

(Amazon.com product link shortened)62661066/ref=sr_1_1/002-4869730-3297619?ie=UTF8&s=hi

you're much better off with one of these:
http://www.stahlwille-online.de/pictures/all/20_fot_012.jpg
and an ordinary screwdriver.
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jim beam wrote:

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Jim, I think some V-Tec's require a long reach to get at the lock nuts. TEGGER would know about this one. That's why I recommended google.com for a search. I was thinking of "The Temple of VTEC" http://www.vtec.net /
'Curly'
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motsco_ wrote:

these look accessible to me!
http://timingbelt.soben.com/t_belt16e.jpg
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jim beam wrote:

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That's a picture of a b-16, similar to the NON-V-tec engine in my CR-V. I thought MAT was talking about being able to use it on both kinds of engines (since we were talking about a "a 2003 CR-V with a 16-Valve-i-VTEC"). Custom tools seem to make life easier and pay for themselves very quickly (especially when this one is inexpensive to start with) :-)
I own the long handled pro 12 mm combination wrench, but since my '98 Odyssey is a VTec, I've thought about that tool as well.
'Curly'
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---------------------------------------
Here's the 'real McCoy' of V-Tec adjusters, I think:
http://tinyurl.com/y4mzcn
I'll have to check my Odyssey manual to see if that's what I really need.
'Curly'
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MAT wrote:

(Amazon.com product link shortened)62661066/ref=sr_1_1/002-4869730-3297619?ie=UTF8&s=hi

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Do a google search and you'll find that a lot of the V-tec people like it.
'Curly'
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