what's a good source of replacement half axles?

I need to replace the passenger half axle on our 95 impreza - the inner u-joint is getting really bad. From what I've heard, the best way to do this is just replace the whole axle. (correct me if I am wrong,
though).
There are a lot of sources for half axles, including on ebay. I don't want to do this job more than once so what's a good source reliable source of rebuilds? I take it most places require a core?
Thanks! Remco
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This came up in a manual transmissions course (focused on all cars, not just Hondas) I took recently, and was treated at length. FWIW, generally speaking the preferred route, cost- and labor-wise, indeed is just to replace the entire half axle (a.k.a. "half shaft"). This came from the instructor and my own research on this, which showed that many automotive authors in the last few years recommend this route.
Napa and Autozone both offer lifetime warranties on half axles. The cost runs around $75, typically, at Napa and Autozone. This price does assume you return the core to Napa or Autozone or wherever. A junkyard may also sell rebuilt or used half axles, and for much less, like $5 (seriously) too. This was from reports from my classmates and the instructors.
OTOH, a quick groups.google turns up some folks who think Subarus axles should always be OEM and new. The boot rubber used by rebuilders such as Napa and Autozone etc. can be inferior.
Check the replacement half shaft diameter, length, and number of splines carefully with the old half shaft. That's one point that can trip up the person doing the repair. People say that when the match is not correct, Autozone etc. have no problem working with the customer to get the exact match.
The solution may depend on how much longer you want to keep this Subaru and so gamble on a rebuild through a place like Napa etc.
The subaru newsgroup(s) have some posts on this.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Elle wrote:

Oops -- Sorry, I typed "Impreza" but meant to type "Integra". I am an idiot but, in my defense, this was typed before my morning coffee. :)
(This is because I have a different problem with my daughter's Impreza at the moment so that's what I have on the brain.)
Does what you say hold true about integras/civics as well, then?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes. Furthermore, the Honda/Acura half shafts are said to be fairly easy to pull, too. Sounds like an intermediate level job (well, by my standards). It is something I would try on my own, especially since the young kids in my class who had pulled a half shaft said they typically had not found it too difficult. The easiness of the job to me argues for getting the ones with a lifetime warranty from Autozone or Napa. If I'd done the job at least once, I might even be able to talk myself into the cheaper ones from the local salvage yard.
IIRC, the variation in half shaft diameter, length, and spline number is somewhat notorious for Hondas, so measure all carefully at Autozone, etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Elle wrote:

Great - thanks! I'll try autozone. Have only messed with axles on my vw bug. Looking at the service manual it does not look difficult but seems involving.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've done both axles (at different times, several years ago) on my '92 Civic, using rebuilts from Autozone. The only problem was that one had teeth that were slightly beat up, and wouldn't fit through the hub -- it's a tight fit. They exchanged it. Inspect the teeth before you leave the store. The Haynes book recommends getting the split ring thingy that locks the shaft into the tranny. You may of course have a problem getting the nut off the hub. When I replaced the engine in my '85 Accord, a long breaker bar wouldn't budge it. I rented an electric impact wrench, and after a couple long sessions with it, it loosened. I ended up buying one for about $20 at a Homier traveling tool show. They aren't very powerful, but the rattling is sometimes what you need.
Remco wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ALF snipped-for-privacy@HOTMAIL.COM wrote:

Thanks -- you're saying to replace that split ring, then?
About getting nuts off: I am restoring a vw beetle so after trying to get some of the rusted bolts off, I invested in an IR impact gun. If it doesn't come off, it will break :)

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Remco wrote:

Yes. Dealer part. A few bucks, IIRC.

I recently did the timing belt on it. My wrench is 235 ft/lbs. Wouldn't budge the crankshaft pulley bolt. My brother had a 375 ft/lb IR. Ditto. A 5' pipe over the breaker bar did the trick on that. The impact wrench worked, but the pipe didn't on the Accord hub nut. I think the pipe was about 4' that time. The Civic nuts weren't as hub bad. I think you also have to separate the tie rod too. That was the only other obstacle. Good luck.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I've had success using a 235 ft-lb impact on axle nuts, but even the 500 ft-lb has to work at getting crankshaft bolts free.
I've also used a floor jack under a breaker bar to remove axle nuts when I didn't have air tools. It still helps to have a long breaker bar because the wheel always comes off the ground before the nut comes loose.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Michael Pardee wrote: <snip>

dude - loosen the nut before jacking the wheel up, and do it in the gravity-assisted direction, not the other way around! life will be so much easier!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I was unclear - I apply torque to the breaker bar with the floor jack, as though I were really strong (yeah... right!) and lifting up on the breaker bar myself. The wheel always comes off the ground because I don't use a cheater bar, but the other front wheel has never cleared the ground. I've used a similar procedure on the crankshaft bolt of my old Volvo, but both front wheels came off the ground before the bolt loosened. There isn't room to do that with the crankshaft bolt of Hondas.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Michael Pardee wrote:

ok, i understand what you're describing, but with respect, i still don't get why. to my way of thinking, it's much easier to push down on a lever using gravity as your friend than it is to lift up against it. you can't lift a wheel off the ground that way [well, not unless you pivot the whole car against a truly locked bolt and succeed in lifting the other end] and i see no difference whether it's axle nuts or crankshaft pulley bolts. i'm a real lazy guy mike and i hate sweating to be the strong guy when i can just use the weight of my lardy rear end to assist my efforts. using a jack to lift a breaker bar is fraught with potential danger from what i can see.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The difference is that I only weigh about 200 lbs, while using the jack I can put much of the front half of the vehicle's weight to work... probably more than 1000 lbs. It's really quite safe. The wheel only comes up a few inches and the nut gives smoothly, lowering the car about like releasing the floor jack does. Think of it as jacking up that corner of the car by placing the jack under the breaker bar instead of the usual jack point. No sweat, no strain. Since you are standing on the far end of the jack you are well out of the way even if the socket pops off the nut.
In contrast, I once tried to loosen a crankshaft bolt with the trick of putting the breaker bar on a jackstand and bumping the starter (on a Toyota, not possible on most Hondas). It worked but was really spooky. The front end suddenly rose a few inches. I won't do that again.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Remco wrote:

-----------------------------------
What country?
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
motsco_ wrote:

SW Connecticut.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Remco wrote:

I would get a dealer quote just for grins. Who knows, maybe their price is reasonable. Much depends on how long you plan to keep running the car. If you want another 11 years out of it, then a new Honda/Acura part might make sense. If another 2-5 years will do then a parts store rebuilt may be in order.
John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
John Horner wrote:

Thanks -- I'll try that too.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I had mine replaced on my '96 Accord LX 5-Speed.
First one leaked around the seal Second one ratcheted Third one leaked around the seal.
All had life time warranty and did these things right out of the shop.
I said the hell with it and had them put an OEM Honda axle.
Not a problem.
I'll stick with OEM from now on. The shop that replaced them was nice enough to not charge me a dime extra in labor for al that work. I'm they one that said use aftermarket. We both agreed in the end it wasn't worth it. I did pay the difference between the OEM and the Aftermarket axle.
G-Man

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It's the cheapest man who spends the most.
Honda OEM, whether it's brake pads or exhaust or axles, work great. A Honda OEM exhaust is well worth the premium, for example. Anything else is a false economy if you're going to keep the car and actually use the part you bought.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Do you know from where your shop purchased the rebuilt half shafts?
I have in my notes that www.hondaautomotiveparts.com sells the rebuilt OEM half-shafts for about $126 (again, assuming the core is returned), lifetime guarantee, IIRC.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.