What spark plug puller?

What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda Accord?
The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
problem and I don't want to break my new wires.
The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.
My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug, around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.
Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?
Thanks, Bill
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Bill wrote:

    You might try looking at the end of your arms, that's where I found and keep mine. :^)
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You're supposed to pull on the boot, not on the wire itself.
A '92 Accord will have a 4-cylinder engine. The plugs will be right on top, as accessible as can be. Not like those awful V6s which require you to be both a double-jointed contortionist and Chihuahua-sized to get at them.
Of course, I assume the use of (high quality) OEM Honda wires. If you're using (low quality) aftermarket wires, all bets are off. I've seen lots of aftermarket wires where the boots are a slip-fit on the wires and will slide if you try to pull on them, encouraging people to pull on the wires directly.
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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What year or years does that apply to? On my '01 V6 there are no plug wires. Plug wires have been replaced with a sort of "electrical shaft" with a stiff tubular body that goes down the hole in the head directly to the wires and it's held in place with a single bolt. 3-pin wire harness connects to the top of this.
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Whichever years have distributors and the accompanying plug wires.

Those do not come apart by accident. All you need is your hands to pull them.
--
Tegger

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Bill wrote:

No special tools required. Rotate the top seal to loosen it, then grasp the seal/boot assembly and gently pull. They should pop off w/o much of a fight.
OEM and good aftermarket plug leads feature a rigid 'post' section that bridges the plug clip and boot interface. Pulling on the to of this should pull everything out cleanly and safely. Something like this:
http://www.autotoys.com/pics/apc1510spark.jpg
Before bombing away with the plug wrench, check for oil! The plug tubes are sealed from the cam area by o-rings which tend to leak when they age. A stiff paper towel folded over a few times makes a good probe - and mop. If excess oil is accumulating, it may trigger a (partial) misfire on the affected cylinder.
-Greg
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Thanks Greg,
Yes, that is what I'm looking for, wondering about. It started missing and dieing at idle about a month ago, so I decided to change the spark plugs and wires, which I hadn't done for a while.
I was surprised to discover a lot of oil around one spark plug. I cleaned the oil out, changed the plugs and wires and that fixed it, it ran much better. Now, it's a month later and started running poorly again, so I want to take off the spark plug wire and see if there is oil in there.
Can you tell me more about the o-rings? What would I need to do to replace these o-rings? What are they called, when I go to buy new ones?
Gracias, Bill
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This page is for the Civic, but the general idea is the same: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html
--
Tegger

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Tegger wrote:

Your/My 92 Accord is VERY similar. Here's a pic of the top set. These can be changed in around 10 minutes - just pull the valve cover and pluck them off the surface. You wanted to check the valve lash anyway, right? :)
http://members.cox.net/geonerd/images/Clean_Valves.jpg
Swapping the bottom set requires a bit more effort, as the entire valve rocker assembly needs to be lifted. The whole mess is well tied together by the two rocker pivot shafts, but it's still a somewhat ticklish operation. You'll need to release the cam hold down caps, possibly allowing the cam belt tensioner to 'suck' the pulley end down. If that happens, the left end of the cam will be pointed at the sky, leaving you with (much) more work to reach and unwind the tensioner. I'm holding off 'till I change the cam belt this fall. Until then, I swab out the plug tubes during the weekly engine check-up.
-G
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Here's an F22 specific guide. http://hondatuning.info/accord-f22-spark-plug-tube-seal-replacement /
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Here is where I show my lack of engineering knowledge. Perhaps you can enlighten me. The instructions speak of in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches and the text refers to 108in/lb torque and 84in/lb torque. I always understood that this translated as, in the first case, as the pull of one pound if applied at a lever length of 108 inches. That would mean that these translate to 9ft/lb and 7ft/lb respectively which would mean only a ft/lb torque wrench would be required. Where am I going wrong?
--
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Torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle third of their range. 9 and 7 lbs are very much on the low side for a foot/pound wrench (completely off the scale on most click-type ft/lb wrenches), so a wrench of low capacity is used so that the desired torque will be closer to the middle third of that wrench's capability. And those are calibrated in inch pounds (an inch pound is one twelfth of a foot pound).
--
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That explains it. I was right in my assumption but was not aware of the niceties of equipment. Many thanks for the explanation.
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Keith W
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