What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda
The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the
wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
problem and I don't want to break my new wires.
The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.
My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug,
around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't
very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.
Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?
You're supposed to pull on the boot, not on the wire itself.
A '92 Accord will have a 4-cylinder engine. The plugs will be right on top,
as accessible as can be. Not like those awful V6s which require you to be
both a double-jointed contortionist and Chihuahua-sized to get at them.
Of course, I assume the use of (high quality) OEM Honda wires. If you're
using (low quality) aftermarket wires, all bets are off. I've seen lots of
aftermarket wires where the boots are a slip-fit on the wires and will
slide if you try to pull on them, encouraging people to pull on the wires
What year or years does that apply to? On my '01 V6 there are no plug wires.
Plug wires have been replaced with a sort of "electrical shaft" with a stiff
tubular body that goes down the hole in the head directly to the wires and
it's held in place with a single bolt. 3-pin wire harness connects to the
top of this.
No special tools required. Rotate the top seal to loosen it, then grasp
the seal/boot assembly and gently pull. They should pop off w/o much of
OEM and good aftermarket plug leads feature a rigid 'post' section that
bridges the plug clip and boot interface. Pulling on the to of this
should pull everything out cleanly and safely. Something like this:
Before bombing away with the plug wrench, check for oil! The plug tubes
are sealed from the cam area by o-rings which tend to leak when they
age. A stiff paper towel folded over a few times makes a good probe -
and mop. If excess oil is accumulating, it may trigger a (partial)
misfire on the affected cylinder.
Yes, that is what I'm looking for, wondering about. It started missing
and dieing at idle about a month ago, so I decided to change the spark
plugs and wires, which I hadn't done for a while.
I was surprised to discover a lot of oil around one spark plug. I
cleaned the oil out, changed the plugs and wires and that fixed it, it
ran much better. Now, it's a month later and started running poorly
again, so I want to take off the spark plug wire and see if there is
oil in there.
Can you tell me more about the o-rings? What would I need to do to
replace these o-rings? What are they called, when I go to buy new
Your/My 92 Accord is VERY similar. Here's a pic of the top set. These
can be changed in around 10 minutes - just pull the valve cover and
pluck them off the surface. You wanted to check the valve lash anyway,
Swapping the bottom set requires a bit more effort, as the entire valve
rocker assembly needs to be lifted. The whole mess is well tied
together by the two rocker pivot shafts, but it's still a somewhat
ticklish operation. You'll need to release the cam hold down caps,
possibly allowing the cam belt tensioner to 'suck' the pulley end down.
If that happens, the left end of the cam will be pointed at the sky,
leaving you with (much) more work to reach and unwind the tensioner.
I'm holding off 'till I change the cam belt this fall. Until then, I
swab out the plug tubes during the weekly engine check-up.
Here is where I show my lack of engineering knowledge. Perhaps you can
enlighten me. The instructions speak of in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches
and the text refers to 108in/lb torque and 84in/lb torque. I always
understood that this translated as, in the first case, as the pull of one
pound if applied at a lever length of 108 inches. That would mean that
these translate to 9ft/lb and 7ft/lb respectively which would mean only a
ft/lb torque wrench would be required. Where am I going wrong?
Torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle third of their range.
9 and 7 lbs are very much on the low side for a foot/pound wrench
(completely off the scale on most click-type ft/lb wrenches), so a wrench
of low capacity is used so that the desired torque will be closer to the
middle third of that wrench's capability. And those are calibrated in inch
pounds (an inch pound is one twelfth of a foot pound).
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