Where is my oil disappearing to?

Page 3 of 3  
jim beam wrote:


Uh, you clearly stated that a compression ring makes little difference as relates to oil control. In fact, any broken compression ring will substantially affect oil control.
Additionally, broken oil or 2nd compression rings are rare since the malady is often caused by incorrect timing (or some other direct factor) that leads to detonation which is the chief culprit as to ring breakage.
JT
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Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

there are 3 rings: top and middle compression, bottom oil control. re-read what i said.

out of the 3, the top ring has the least effect!

yes, it's usually true that the top ring goes, but it's not always the case. and yes, it can increase oil consumption, but it's not as bad as the other rings. re-read what i said.

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Jim, I have a question for you. I was taught that the best method of detecting ring problems was to conduct a compression check. Other than taking the engine apart, are there now better methods of detecting ring problems? If so, what are so methods? Jason
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Jason wrote:

You could do a wet vs. dry compression test as well as a leak down test.
Eric
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Eric, Thanks for your post. I have read about the leak down test but have never done one. Jason
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Jason wrote:

for general engine health, i.e. how well it's coping with accumulated mileage, that's true. but in the situation cited originally in this thread, it's not guaranteed to diagnose the problem because defective oil control rings make almost no difference to compression. you're therefore left with logical deduction - if all other causes have been eliminated, it's the rings.

oil/excess deposits on one spark plug is a dead giveaway. in addition, oil analysis could do it, if conducted regularly. but in a situation where the engine's suddenly dry, analysis is not an option. that unfortunately leaves you with strip-down. but even then, there's not too much point messing about worrying what went wrong - once stripped, a motor needs to be rebuilt anyway and all the wearing parts need to be replaced, so just toss the pistons and rings and start again.

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Jim, Thanks for the information. I learned some things that I did not know. The oil analysis appears to be an excellent option. Jason
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That agrees fairly well with my limited experience. I rebuilt an engine in a 1970 Volvo I had that pinged badly and smoked a lot (no catalytic converter). It had broken first compression rings in every cylinder and a broken second compression ring in one cylinder.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

Back in the early 1980's, I bought a friend's 1976 Honda Civic CVCC and drove it for about a year. It pinged fairly loud on hills and hard acceleration but luck was with me as I finally adjusted the timing to get rid of the knock. The car ran flawlessly all the way to the 170K (miles) mark when the car rotted out from under me...
<G>
JT
(Who wonders what adventures may lurk with his "new to me" '83 Civic FE)
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