I do not want to be a "professional" or "licensed" broker, (because
I've had all the licenses and certificates I'll ever need in one life
time, and I've had all kinds of licenses and permits for all kinds of
occupations and services and as far as I'm concerned they ain't worth
the toilet paper I'd use them in place of. The only thing that matters
as a guerrilla broker is my negotiation skills. I want to sell myself
as a professional negotiator to personally accompany a car buyer as my
client, limit the session to 60 to 90 minutes per client, and get
kicked out often enough to establish a reputation. After awhile I'll
find the water level where me and my clients can do business. I will
also limit the total commission to a maximum of $500 (often only $200).
Also can you tell me if there is a relatively reliable formula to
determine when in fact the figures that I'm offering a dealer are up
against the dealers 1st level of true real cost. I know there are
other invoices that undermine whatever a dealer says are his "true"
costs, so is there a rough formula to determine when the 2nd level of
true cost has been met? Are there in fact more then two levels of real
cost with corresponding invoices that I may or may not be able to
If you could use an example an MSRP of $29.5K, what would be the
counter offer I would have to drop below to know there was no more room
for negotiation for a level 1 cost and for a level 2 cost.
Assume I had only $2K down, only average credit (550-650), I'm asking
for factory rebate if available (e.e.g $2400) plus 0% interest
financing, all extended warranties bumper to bumper, and I'm dealing
with a fleet manager or somebody other than a commissioned floor
salesman so the commission factor is as low as possible.