06 Sonata LX slow oil drip

I personally change the oil in my 06 Sonata LX. My last oil change I noticed a slow, small drip coming from the drain plug. The drain plug could not be tightended any further (trust me, it's not over
tightened), so I thought it was the crushing washer. I just changed it again yesterday morning, and it still drips, even with a new washer. It's not cross threaded no metal shards. I get the washer from the dealer, is it possible it's too thick? Not the right material? Help! This is absolutely frustrating!
-Matt
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Did you tighten the plug using a torque wrench? The only ways I can think of that a leak could occur are:
1. Plug not tight enough 2. Plug not sealing squarely (implies cross threading) 3. Serious nick on the oil pan sealing surface 4. Serious nick on the plug sealing surface 5. Serious nick on the crush washer
If you are sure it isn't 1, 2 or 5, then you need to remove the plug, which means draining the oil unfortunately, and using a bright light carefully inspect the sealing surfaces on both the oil pan and plug looking for a nick or bump that is preventing an oil-tight seal.
Matt
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Matt W.
I recall somewhere in the Hyundai manuals there is a tourque rating spec for the drain plug, however, never in my 10+ years of doing my own automotive work have I ever put a tourque wrench on a oil drain plug, but I will try it. This is my 5th oil change for my Sonata, I've done all five oil changes myself, and the drip never started until the 4th oil change. The nicks are a good point. Thanks!
-Matt B
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

What got me wondering was you said that "it could not be tightened any further", but you also said it was not overtightened. The only way to be sure it isn't overtightened is to use a torque wrench. And it can always be tightened further! It may strip, but it can always be tightened more. :-)
Matt
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The sealing washers have been redesigned. The older ones were about 1mm thick and would squeeze out the side if overtightened, causing a leak. The newer ones are about 2mm thick and don't squeeze as easily due to the additional material. It's possible you may need to tighten the drain plug a little more than you did before. Also, with the thicker washer, there's a greater possibility that a problem with nonparallel surfaces will cause a leak.
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After you get it figured out, on the next oil change put in a Fram Sure Drain oil drain plug with a drain valve. You won't have to unscrew the oil plug ever again. No more crush washers to worry about. They are under $10. Available at Fleet Farm. I've got one on both my XG350's and they work great. Ideal for someone who changes his own oil.
Dan

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Fleet Farm upper midwest...how about somewhere that serves the USA...Pep Boys? JC Whitney?
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Hyundaitech - I thought the washers looked thicker. Looks like I will have to jack the car up drain the oil and take a closer look at the drain plug area, and put a tourque wrench on it. And see what happens. If that doesn't fix it.....looks like it's going to the dealership. Would this be covered under warranty? (My thought is no).
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Fumoto valve, even better than Fram. Do it the first time, do it right and you are set for the rest of the car's life.
MARTY
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It'd depend on the problem. If there's a factory defect in anything other than the washer, you should be good for warranty.
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On Sun, 29 Jul 2007 11:24:09 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com"

Try a thick copper washer. They're practically permanent, and compensate for a little out-of-parallel or burrs on the plug or oil pan. I think you can get a nice assortment from Harbor Freight for ~5 bucks.
And WHY DOESN'T HYUNDAI SUPPLY THEM OEM? -
Bob
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Bob Adkins wrote:

Probably because aluminum is cheaper. I'm not sure why copper would be any better for compensating for out-of-parallel or burrs as the hardness is similar (depending on which alloys of course) between the two metals. :-)
Matt
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wrote:

I don't really care which is best. I just like copper better because of the color and flavor. Aluminum sets my teeth on edge. ;)
All kidding aside, I agree that soft Al is an excellent material for throw-away gaskets. However, I don't trust it for reusable gaskets because of the way it's subject to fatigue cracking.
You're right that Al cheaper than Cu. That could save you and me about .01 per washer I guess. Hey, a penny saved... -
Bob
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Bob Adkins wrote:

I doubt it saves us anything! But if it saves Hyundai $0.01 per washer and they sell a million a year, it begins to add up! :-)
Matt
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Actually, while you're in Harbor Freight, buy a torque wrench for $16.00. I was surprised how tight 30 Ft-Lbs seemed when tightening the plug.
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Harbor Freight....now there's a man after my own heart!!
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Bob wrote:

With a $16 Harbor Freight torque wrench, you may be getting 20 ft-lbs or 40 ft-lbs, so it may actually be a lot tighter than you think! :-) A torque wrench is one tool that shouldn't be skimped on quality-wise and most Harbor Freight stuff is quite simply ... junk.
Matt
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yes but it is CHEAP junk....I have a set of Sears torques and the harbor freight ones read the same to me!
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Deck wrote:

That is true. I bought from them once and once was enough. There are few things I despise more than shoddy tools.
Matt
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wrote:

There are some excellent deals at HF if you're an astute tool man.
For example, their wood chisels have better steel than any American chisels I have found so far.
Their air tools are a fabulous bargain. You can buy 5 air ratchets for the price of 1 Ingersoll Rand ratchet. The IR will last maybe 15 years of hard use, the HF will last maybe half that long, but work just as well. That still makes them a great bargain.
Their pliers are poorly designed junk, although the steel is pretty good. Neither do I like their ratchets and sockets. Their jumbo sockets are available singly, and 1/10th the price of Snapon. They are quite serviceable.
Their jumbo wrenches are as good as any, and 1/5 the price of Snapon. -
Bob
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