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2000 elantra front wheel bearing replacement

I undertook the job of replacing the front wheel bearing on my wife's

2000 Elantra. I have use of a press. I have the spindle assembly(hub with rotor attached) off the car now, but I'm not sure of a few things.
  1. How to remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. I tried freeing it up with a chisel and trying needle nose, but it seems pretty stuck. I also have a mid-sized pair of snap ring pliers, but they won't expand that far.
  2. How do I separate the rotor from the hub. I first thought that the two holes on the face were for threading bolts in to separate the two. Then I read that some hyundai's have two screws that hold the rotor to the hub. I didn't look closely inside these holes, but maybe there is a hex head screw inside. I also read something about using a slide hammer. Anyway, I'm stuck here too.
  3. What keeps the hub retained in the bearing. It seems like the transaxle would hold it to itself, but I was thinking that the transaxle isn't held in that strongly and that maybe the hub locks to the bearing somehow(other than the press fit). Any help anyone can give me with these questions, would be greatly appreciated.
Reply to
dubber
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Sounds like you need to take it to a real mechanic. Or take out some good insurance.

Reply to
irwell
  1. Soak the snap ring in penetrating oil really well. I have a pair of Craftsman needlenose pliers that the tech beside me believes to be the best he's seen for removing this snap ring. If you can get the snap ring to move, your should be able to eventually collapse it with the needlenose pliers and simultaneously pry out with a screwdriver or two. Being an octopus helps. If you're unable to get the snap ring to move, you may need to cut it. I had to do this once by cutting a slit in the back side of the knuckle down through the bearing. I'd recommend only doing this as a last resort.

  1. The holes in the rotor are indeed intended for screwing a bolt into to push the rotor off the hub, but DON'T DO IT. You'll crack the rotor. If you take the knuckle off, and put the studs down on a hard surface, you can hammer the rotor off. I use about a 3.5 lb. dead blow hammer. If you've removed the retaining screws (or they aren't there), the rotor should hammer off.

  2. The hub is simply pressed into the bearing. Once you get the rotor off, you can press the hub out. While on the car, the axle nut holds the assembly together.
Reply to
hyundaitech

Thanks Hyundaitech. I wish I had posed the questions earlier. I ended up removing the rust between the rotor and the hub by going around multiple times with a chisel. the only access I had was in the open area of the backing plate. I then tried to separate them by driving splitting wedges on both sides between the rotor and the spindle, alternating hitting one then the other. I think the bearing broke apart first, then when it was just the hub/rotor I was able to better pound it off. Then I had to grind a slot in the inner race of the bearing that was still attached to the hub. When it was almost thru, I hit inside the slot with a punch and cracked it loose. With the snap ring, I did soak it, then took an old bearing that was slightly smaller and hit down on the snap ring to try to push the bearing back a smidgeon. Then I used a chisel again and this time one end of the snap ring loosened up and I was able to pry it out. From there it was just a matter of pressing the outer race out and putting the new bearing back in and pressing the hub back in. I see it would be a lot easier to separate the bearing while it's on the car with a slide hammer if you could. I still need to do the other side, so I can put some of this knowledge from you and what I've experienced to work. I don't have a slide hammer, so I may end up doing it as you have suggested. I found it was a little tricky supporting the spindle evenly so I could press on it to push the hub out. I'm assuming that typically the hub will press out of the bearing before the bearing breaks apart. I'm sure my case had to do with intentionally trying to break the bearing apart, and the uneven pounding. Overall, I actually enjoyed it. It was a little frustrating at times, but with advice from you and others, and not a little persistence, I got one side done and was even able to re-use the rotor. Thanks for your help.

Reply to
dubber

Don't run out and purchase the slide hammer. I've a 10 pound slide hammer that's only moderately efficient at removing these hubs.

Reply to
hyundaitech

it's not worth the pain in the ass work to save a few dollars, brought my 2001 elantra into the dealer to have the front driverside wheel bearing done.

180$ complete... (cdn dollars) Dealer gave me a loaner car to go to work picked up my car on the way home.

Chris

Reply to
Dumbass

hyundaitech can you provide some guidance?

I'm trying to replace the front and rear rotors and pads on a 2001 Santa Fe, After numerous attempts, with a hand impact driver, to loosen the 2 screws holding the rotor on the screwheads finally sheared off. My question : are the screws required? I have to order the screws because dealer doesn't stock them. I would hate to have to drill and tap the holes for nothing. Thank you in advance

hyundaitech wrote:

Reply to
dshaw

"dubber" wrote in news:1139456755.836336.298110 @f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Let me ask you this... I have TWO 2000 Elantras. It's funny watching a problem crop up on one, and then the other (well, not that funny...)

On my wifes car, the right wheel started making a squeaking noise anytime the wheel was turned past the 12 o'clock position (right). Now, mine is doing it.

Is this what lead you to your bearing job?? It's definitely a grinding/squeaking noise.

Thanks

Reply to
The Chris

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