2000 Elantra Growling....

Hi,
My daughters car is a 2000 Elantra....it has a distinct growling from the front while driving, more pronounced when decelerating. You can pretty much
feel it in the seat of your pants, low rumbly growl....changes with speed.
What am I looking for here ???
TIA
Jeff
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Never_Enough_Tools wrote:

Assume it's an automatic tranny?
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Hmm. Sounds more like a wheel bearing/hub assembly to me. Some Hyundais do have a history of that.

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Rev. Tom Wenndt wrote:

I agree with Tom, The first thing I'd check is the wheel bearings. Jack up the front end, then grab one of the wheels at the top and bottom and see if there's any play in it. If so, the bearing is shot.
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However... if you do not feel any play, that is not conclusive evidence that the wheel bearing and hub assembly is ok in today's front wheel drive vehicles. It's really hard to diagnose a front hub failure (in its earlier stages) by lifting the wheels and trying to feel play.
Does the noise get more pronounced when turning right or left? If so, then likely the bearing/hub on the opposite side of the direction you are turning is probably bad. If it gets quieter turning in one direction or the other, then likely the bearing on the side of the turn is bad.
CV joints do not typically fail with groaning noises. They generally give clicking sounds when turning one direction or the other. Left long enough, they can develop into other noises, but it is usually hard to get past the early stage failure sounds.
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Mike Marlow wrote:

That's true and I meant to put it in my original post.
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Yes, Its an Auto....Sorry....
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Never_Enough_Tools wrote:

As suggested, might be bearing. Or a CV joint...
But, does the sound change when turning one way or the other?
Post as many clues as you can and perhaps Hyundaitech can diagnose from afar.
Jim
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You guys are on track so far. Best is if you can put it on a lift and have someone drive it while you probe around for the noise source. So far, though, my money is on hub bearing.
-- Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai / More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
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Thanks Guys,
I can't really check it out at the moment due to weather, But I'll post when I find out any more....
Any guesses as to what the hub / bearing job would cost???? My book says it is better left to a shop due to special tools....
Also, is this thing gonna go south quickly ??? She drives to school, no highway, maybe 10 mi per day........Yes , No, or anyones guess ????
Jeff
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Hard to say. Most last for quite a while. On the other hand, here's the story from my personal car.
Saturday -- Noise sounding like hub bearing appears. Monday -- Noise goes away driving to work. Thursday -- Change oil and check hub bearings. All appears normal. Saturday -- Noise returns about 40 miles from work. I attempt to make it to work and don't. Lots of grinding and squeaking noises, with me driving *very* slowly once these noises begin. About 35 miles later, wheel starting to lock up. Upon disassembly, I find that there are *no* rollers left in the bearing. ABS tone wheel and wheel speed sensor damaged from rubbing against each other. Didn't have axle, so I put it together and test drove. Wheel speed sensor works, but tone wheel is damaged enough to cause ABS to intermittently engage intermittently when nearly stopped. Replacing axle fixes issue. Used a cheap reman axle, so it probably still cost me less than paying the additional mileage on the tow.
-- Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai / More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
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Jeff
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As to your question of price, it depends. If you have a full-blown bearing hub assembly unit, the part is quite expensive - usually over $100, even from places like Auto Zone. But they are easy to put on - usually a D.I.Y. repair.
But I have a hunch the '00 Elantra takes a standard wheel bearing that includes the spindle and everything else. The part itself (if nothing else is bad) is much cheaper, but it is a much more complicated repair, best left to a dedicated tech.
Incidentally, if I am right, and it is a bearing, waste NO TIME getting it fixed. When they start going bad, they freeze quickly. I am told by some mechanics that at some point, your wheel could (not necessarily would but could) fall off, especially in warmer weather. At the very least, it will (as HyundaiTech described it) start gobbling up other front end parts, to where the repair gets almost prohibitively expensive, short of finding another junkyard assembly.
The bearing/hub assembly units will just get louder, and have a little more forgiveness in them. But as soon as you know what it is, at least if you are me, usually that provides enough paranoia to get it fixed ASAP.
Hope this helps.

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The front bearing is separate and is pressed into the knuckle. The rear bearing is part of the hub and is not serviced separately.
-- Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai / More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
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Thanks for all the tips guys....If I get a warm day I'll lift it up and check for play....
I'm pretty sure I'll end up taking it for repair, but I like to know what I'm dealing with !!
Jeff
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Never_Enough_Tools wrote:

One last tip. After going through multiple bearing repairs on my old Excel, I strongly recommend that you get the entire hub assembly instead of having the bearing fixed. With bearing changes, all it takes is minor missassembly or a little bit of grit getting into the new bearings (very easy to do when working under the car) to trash them in hurry (I had one that failed in less than two weeks after a dealer repair). With the complete hub, the part is more expensive, but they labor is less and you're installing a factory sealed unit that's been properly assembled in a clean environment.
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Thanks Brian, sounds like the way to go.....
If I get the entire hub assembly, does this make it a DIY job ?? Meaning no special tools required ???
Thanks again,
Jeff
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never_enough_tools wrote:

Yes, that's another advantage that I forgot to mention. You will need to separate the ball joint, so may need to borrow, buy or rent tools for that, but they're cheap. Some auto parts stores (Advance comes to mind) will lend you the tools at no charge.
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