99 Accent axel bearing question

I've got a high pitched sqeak sometimes when the car is rolling. Braking stops it. Since I just changes the front brakes for the second time in 3 months I thought I had better check the rear. No
noise when wheels spin free and no feel like a bad bearing but the rear drums are pretty rusted and stuck on. Used some WD40 and will check the price of new drums later. Probably replace brakes and drums as long as I have things apart. 80,000 on the car so it's probably due. What I'm wondering about is the bearings. It appears they may be sealed from the little I have read in the shop manual. Can they be repacked or lubed in any way? If is makes sense I will do any maintenance otherwise I am thinkng of replacing them because of the squeak. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
nothermark
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wrote:

Just checked Autozone -
Drums are $50 ea special order can't buy bearings but new spindle sets complete are $82
so $300 plus brake parts...... guess I won't be in a hurry on this.
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If you have not done a rear brake job yet I would imagine your drums could be turned and re-used. They can be machined just like rotors to restore the friction surface. My experience with autozone and brake parts has been VERY poor. Albany brake linings are the worst you can get in my opinion. Buy your friction parts at napa(united brand) or checker/shucks/kragen(Raybestos).
Bearings on most cars now are 'sealed'. Usually the hub/bearings come as one assembly that cannot be serviced. If you are not getting abnormal noises(whining/growling sounds, spins rough by hand, etc) then you do not need to replace anything.
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"nothermark"

I have this same issue with my '02 Santa Fe (40K miles). I had the brakes replaced last week, rotors are fine. The high pitched squeal remains. It usually shows up after going down the road for 15 min or so. It's also more noticeable when turning left. It's in the passenger rear. Braking stops it.
All signs point to the rear hub which, I have a feeling, isn't covered. :-\
Ruth CM
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It's probably best to try to hunt down where the noise is originating. It's possible that the pad shims are making contact with the rotor. The fact that you've replaced pads twice in three months also bothers me.
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On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 19:38:41 -0500, "hyundaitech"

The three month deal was the Autozone premium pads on the front. I thought the extra $15 would get me pads that would last better :-(. They exchanged them free but I went back to the cheaper pads that last better. This summer I will replace the rotors - not a fun job on the Hyundai. They are chewed up enough I will have problems with inspection but the car stops fine.
The deal with the rear's is an intermittent high pitched sound that I seems to be coming from the back end. I tried pulling the drum the other day but it was rusted to the metal cover for the bearing. I will get if off today or tomorrow and see what is going on. It may be nothing more than a new pair of shoes.
The thing with Hyundai parts that is throwing me is the cost compared to the Ford car and Chevy truck I also work on. When I can replace drums for $20 ea it is cheap enough and easier than getting them turned. At $50 it is not a good option. I will admit I have gotten lazy in that it is much easier to throw $100 worth of parts into something and be done rather than to figure out what $100 part out of several is the real problem. ;-)
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Don't feel bad. I fully diagnose customer's vehicles, but when it comes to my own, I typically run out and buy whatever part I think is screwing me up.
As for getting your drums off, screwing two 8mm x 1.25 bolts into the holes in the drums should help push them off.
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