Coupe FOB issue

Hi all
I am new to this group but I have a burning issue that I am hoping to get some feedback on - and I apologise if it is old news to you all and
would appreciate a pointer to the thread if it is indeed already done and dusted on this group.
I have recently purchased a Hyundai Coupe V6 (about 4 months ago) and it was only one year old in November 2005. Since then I have had at least 5 occassions where the FOB just goes out of sync with the car and have had to call the RAC out to get me back on the road again. I took the car in as it is still under the warranty and the service center claims that this model does have this problem and I just have to keep taking it in to the service center to get new FOBs as there is nothing further they can do about it.
I do not have the luxury of taking my car in every week or two weeks when this happens and this is exceptionally frustrating for me as each time I approach my car I don't know if it will open or not and I did not pay for a faulty product.
What I want to know is if anyone else has this problem and how you dealt with it and what I could potentially do about it.
Thanks in advance
Perusha
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Friends of Bill? whose RAC?
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I'm not sure what you mean by FOB.
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On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 13:07:37 -0500, "hyundaitech"
**Maybe the key fob is screwing up and they have to call the Royal Auto Club :)
just a guess
kaboomie
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Sorry - I guess terminologies vary
FOB is what Hyundai uses in the UK to refer to the remote control device they give you with the car for the alarm system. I guess you guys call it something else.
RAC is like Automobile Association - you get free RAC cover here with the car for a few years.
I am in Edinburgh for Christmas and the remote has just died on me again. This time it seems that the batteries have been drained as this is a new remote. Just called the RAC out to get me back on the road.
I take it this is not a common problem with the Coupes?
kaboom wrote:

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The caps fooled me. I thought maybe FOB was some acronym I didn't know. We usually call them remotes (or transmitters) in the U.S. (Stupid Americans. Can't speak real English and won't learn other languages.)
Anyway, this isn't a terribly common problem as far as I know. If you were told it was out of sync, then I suspect the person speaking to you didn't know the actual problem.
The characteristics of your fob(s) are programmed into the body control module of your car. If your key fobs were functioning, but stopped, then there are numerous reasons why this could happen:
1. Dead battery in key fob. If you have an LED, it typically won't light. In most cases, I've been able to conclusively check the battery no-load with a voltmeter. It should be about 3v.
2. A problem with the fob itself causing the BCM to not recognize it.
3. A problem with the BCM causing it to either not recognize the fob or to not take proper action upon receiving proper signal from the fob.
4. Any other problem which would result in the BCM sending signal to allow vehicle operation, but that signal not reaching the proper modules and devices (engine control module, door locks, etc.)
Saying they're out of sync leads me to believe the repair facility simply reprogrammed the fobs into the BCM. If there is a continually occurring problem which reprogramming solves, I suspect you have a problem in the BCM. There should be no external action which would cause the BCM to lose it's memory of the fobs.
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Hi there
Sorry for the long delay and thanks for the information! Yes, I am afraid when I heard the term fob from Hyundai I assumed that it must be 'FOB' and I capitalised it for a reason I cannot explain - apologies for that.
Thanks for the info. I will try to piece together what has been happening for the past four months to try to establish a pattern that I can hopefully present to the Hyundai service center when I take the car in again on Thursday. I am going to be an annoying person who just learnt what a BCM is but wants it checked anyway : )
The brief history I am going to give them is as follows: The first time the RAC came out to help me I could not unlock the car with the key fob. They thought it might have something to do with my working near Heathrow airport - there is constant air traffic. So they showed me how to 'fudge' the remote - holding down two buttons until the flickering stopped and then clicking another button. After this procedure the remote seemed to work again, until the next time. This happened twice at work so I assumed it must be the proximity to the airport but then it happened outside my house and since then just about anywhere - no airplane needed.
One particularly cold morning the remote just seemed totally dead. So I changed the batteries and then needed to use the fudge again to get the car open. Did not work that time and once again the RAC people came out and after several attempts we managed to get the car open (fudge finally kicked in).
Since then I have taken the car into the service center in preparation for the drive up to Edinburgh. They said that they changed the batteries in one of the fobs and replaced the other fob. Both worked when I left there but within 3 days the old fob developed a sticky button and I had to remove the batteries (green light came on and I just could not shut it down). That killed any comfort feeling and I could not get a booking at the service center that close to Christmas.
The second fob failed in Edinburgh just before we were meant to drive down. We called RAC out again and the guy really battled to get the car opened but the fudge finally worked after about half an hour of trying. Both fobs are now dead - both seem to have problems which is strange.
I like the car a lot but this is seriously stressing me out and I really hope I have some good news on Thursday.
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It sounds as if your fobs may be different than those in the U.S. Do you have a key lock, or must you unlock by transmitter only?
As far as interference, it's quite possible. The radio frequencies these systems operate on in the U.S. are actually allocated to military. If we're particularly near a military installation, car remotes, garage door openers, and many items don't work intermittently. In fact, many radio transmissions, if strong enough, can cause interference.
Your remotes may be rolling-code type. I don't believe Hyundai uses those in the U.S., but other manufacturers do. It is possible in that case for the transmitter to become unsynchronized with the receiver in the car. The fudge method you describe sounds like the typical method for resynchronization of rolling code transmitters.
It sounds to me like the repair facility there is on the right track. If replacing the transmitter or transmitter battery solves the issue, then I suspect the issue was present and clear at the time of servicing. If you indeed have the rolling code type transmitters, then that would significantly reduce the probability of a BCM error causing unsynchronization. In fact, I believe the synchronization is not retained in BCM if battery power is disconnected (presuming your system to be similar to others of the rolling code type I've seen).
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The remote disables the alarm and unlocks the doors. Using just the key I can unlock the doors but not enable the alarm. I read up briefly on this rolling code type alarm and it sounds like a great idea in theory. The problem with the fudge is the remotes don't seem to be up to the job. The buttons stick and they seem to drain the batteries remarkably fast (althought I guess what could be happening is the button is depressed in my coat pocket, sticks and then runs down the batteries that way).
If this is a rolling code type of remote I am guessing that the device in the remote that syncs the codes with the matching device attached to the car is not easy to change? I guess what I need to know is what options do I have? Am I just doomed never to use my alarm system again (overly dramatic, maybe : )
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If this car is similar to those in the U.S., you may be able to disarm the alarm using an alternative method as follows:
1. Open the door with the key. In the U.S., the alarm will sound. 2. Get in the vehicle. Turn the key to the "start" position and release to the "on" position (just like you would if you had actually started the vehicle). 3. Wait 30 seconds. The alarm will stop sounding before then, but you must wait 30 seconds. 4. After 30 seconds, try again to start the vehicle. It should start.
Also, if you don't lock the vehicle with the remote, the security system will not arm.
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I am ecstatic!! This morning I took my car in for the routine fob replacement and while I was there I asked about replacing the alarm system. A very helpful man said he would look into it and minutes later they contacted me to say they would be able to do it!!
I picked up the coupe this evening with two totally different new fobs and they work and the range has dramatically increased (it now rivals my husbands Smart). Stress testing still needs to be conducted (although I must have tried it about 10 times already today) but they have restored my faith and I am feeling hugely grateful to the center that helped me. I will be writing to them to say as much.
And thank you for all the information and for taking the time to explain things to me. It is much appreciated.
And for completeness: On your suggestion above one of the guys from the RAC tried it and what happens is that the car starts but then the alarm sounds and then stops after so many seconds and continues in this fashion. I am not sure if you could drive the car as presumably the immobiliser is disabled by the key but the alarm kept sounding.
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"" wrote: > I'm not sure what you mean by FOB.
The FOB is the keyless remote that is used instead of the key. RAC may mean Rent A Car which in some parts of New England is a car rental agency. At Nissan we use RAC a lot.
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Reckerfox wrote:

As Hyundaitech pointed out, it's "fob", as in "key fob", not "FOB", which makes it look like an acronym. "RAC" is an acronym.
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