Couple of small conerns

I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles. I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with the
headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be wrong and just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels ( custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or rear. Any suggestions
Tunez
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You don't drive much more then I do. Vought mine 12/07/05 now just under 2400 miles. Will take it in next week for an oil change. anyhow I don't have either problem for what ever that may be worth.

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John H wrote:

At that rate of mileage accumulation, you guys would be as far ahead on a bicycle. :-)
I got my Sonata last December 20th and have nearly 8,000 on it already. :-(
Matt
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That's not a fair comparison Matt. You NEEDED a car. :)
--
Bob

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Bob Adkins wrote:

Actually, I need to ride my bicycle more often... :-)
If I wasn't 20 miles from work, I'd ride to work now and then, but 20 miles, when 5 of that is hilly back roads, takes too long. Lance Armstrong I'm not.
Matt
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Bought my Elentra in Sep. and have 3775 on it.
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The lights briefly dimming when the a/c compressor turns on is normal. The compressor clutch draws a large amount of current when it engages, causing a brief voltage reduction.
For the brake vibration, your rotors may need to be resurfaced. If you let the vehicle sit for days without driving, you may be building up rust on the rotors (possibly on the inside surface you cannot see).
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Thanks both John and Hyundaitech
I guess the rotors may need to be checked further, I only drive about once or maybe twice a week and mostly less than 20 miles round trip, I never thought to check the rear of the rotors. I did do a kinda no-no ( well kinda ) 65MPH and stomped on the brakes, the pulsation did seem to lighted up even more but will have dealer check them out when I get it serviced. Thanks again
Tunez

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Tunez wrote:

Why is that a "no no?" That may be exactly what you need to cure the pulsating brakes. Try 4-5 hard stops from 50 MPH or so. If the problem is rust spots or uneven accumulation of brake pad material, this will often fix the problem.
Matt
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HAHAHAHA Matt that is a GREAT IDEA only problem is I take it you havnt ever been to Las Vegas or havnt been here recently....95% of the time its hard to get up to 50 MPH. It used to take me about 20 minutes to drive from one end of the Strip to the other now sometimes you you sit at a stop light for MORE than 20 minutes and if I were to try that over once on a main highway I would cause one of the biggest multi-car accidents you would ever see. Sometimes on I-15 you can walk faster than the traffic moves, other times its bumper to bumper at 80 MPH. Traffic is so bad here that if you cant get in the right lane when you wanna get off the I-15 or I-95 you may end up going 2 or 3 exits past where you wanna get off. I always thought New York drivers were the worst in the world when I lived there...Now I see most of them must have come from Las Vegas !!!!! We have the Greatest selection of braindead, nomind retarded drivers in the world, now you can see why I dont drive much... I'm afraid it might be catching and I don't want it. Been driving for over 40 years without as much as a parking ticket and I'd like to keep it that way.
Tunez

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Tunez wrote:

There are lots of roads not far from Vegas that would be suitable. I was in Vegas just shy of a year ago on vacation. Flew into Vegas, got a rental Town & Country and drove around the southwest for two weeks, spending the last 3 days in Vegas. I actually didn't think the traffic was bad at all. We drove the strip a couple of times, at both night, to see the lights, and day to see what we missed at night. The strip was busy, but that was to be expectd. The side streets and other roads weren't bad at all. We stayed at a place just a little out of town on the east side. I believe Sienna Suites was the name.
The traffic there is nothing like Boston, Atlanta, LA, etc.
Matt
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Tunez wrote:

My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to start the car and last well enough though...

I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
JS
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Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels ) but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the rotor, Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the inside/outside calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and Im happy
Tunez
----- Original Message -----
Newsgroups: alt.autos.hyundai Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 2:41 PM Subject: Re: Couple of small conerns

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Tunez wrote:

It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.
So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.
Matt
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Matt Whiting wrote:

Well if everything is working right (properly lubricated) the difference in pressure should be a couple ounces at the most... the more severe the corrosion/dirt/wear/lack of lubrication the more the pressure difference is.
Using the wrong lubricant will gum the slides up badly, be sure to get the right stuff.
JS
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JS wrote:

Yes, but the proper lubrication seldom lasts from one pad replacement to the next, at least not in our PA winters. The road salt, water, dirt, etc., will remove the lube in one winter. The difference in force then is a lot more then a few ounces. Keep in mind that the caliper is being forced against the mount with a LOT of force when under hard braking. A rusty or even dirty slide will have a lot of friction and will take a lot of force to move when under the force of heavy braking.

Or worse yet, melt at high temps and get on the pads or disks.
Matt
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