High RPM on cold start!

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Hi I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I can't seem to find it. I have of late noticed that as soon as I start the car (2006 Sonata V6) in the morning it revs up to 2k rpm then
settles down to around 1200 for a while. Doesn't go below 1000 for a long time. Rarely get time to wait & see if it will ;).. Which brings up another question, I recently read on a brochure in a car dealers shop that there is no need to idle the car to warm it up before driving away as this doesn't improve fuel consumption, but only consumes extra fuel. However I have always thought it is best for the engine to warm up a bit before driving away... thanks for any inputs...
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This has been a controversial issue for some time. Near as I can tell, thee really is not need for a warm up time, however, the first couple of miles should be at a modest speed. This is not just for the engine, but for warming of the differential, wheel bearings, transmission, etc.
Lubricants used in the past 10 years are far superior to anything used in the 1930's when many of our driving customs started. Cold carburetors did not always function as well with the automatic choke like the present fuel injection either. Nor do we have to remember when to push in the choke knob on the dash.
I have a remote starter so the car will be warmed up in many cases.
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Vineeth wrote:

The brochure was right, warming up a car does nothing but waste fuel and pollute the air. The best way to warm up a car is to drive it.
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I disagree - to a point. I have experienced way too many sub-zero mornings where the lubricants in the car are thickened up, for me to jump right on this practice. Try this - leave your car outside overnight on a sub-zero night. Jump in, start it up and put it in gear, and take off. Notice if there is any difference at all in it's response versus the response once things have warmed up a bit. Not to mention, that in the winter time it is more than a little important to have such things as defrosters functional when heading down the road. That does not happen with a cold engine.
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Lots of subzero mornings would be a good reason to use synthetic oil - at least during the winter. I'd bet that it would actually make a difference in the life expectancy of the engine under these - lube oil available, and circulating, vs. lube oil in jello form in oil pan - conditions.
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Bob wrote:

This is the only reason I use synthetic. Even though winters have been warmer the last couple of decades, we still get several subzero days each winter typically and -20 happens every 3-4 winters or so.
Although, I must admit that the new 5W20 dino oils flow pretty well in the cold. I ran the OEM oil in my Sonata for most of last winter as I bought the car right before Christmas. It cranked well even at 10 F. We didn't have any below zero days last winter as I recall. And when I switched to Synthetic 5W20 the difference as compared to the dino oil was much less dramatic that in days gone by with 10W30 and heavier oils so I suspect that even with dino oil you are fine down to zero or below if you use the recommended 5W20 weight.
Matt
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I've been quite satisfied, as you observe Matt, with the flow of 5W20 or 30 in the winter. As noted in my other response, though, it's not all about the oil. The engine has to come up to temp for many things to be right - tolerances, mixture controls, etc.
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With all due respect the question of warming up the engine or not to an operating temperature that will give you defroster capability does not address the major issue.
In sub zero temps or those below 20F you face the issue of Automatic transmission function and even more importantly suspension movement.
You can have the engine sit for a full 5 minutes at idle and if you drive off and hit a moderately deep pot hole at sub zero temps you have a MUCH greater chance of doing damage.
I have been advised by a number of factory techs that warming up the engine for 30 seconds to one minute is all that is necessary, however one must be careful not to stress the trans and suspension until the car has had some miles put on to warm these components up.
Severe cold is the best friend the repair shops have. It does far more damage to parts other that the engine.

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Mike Marlow wrote:

That isn't much of an issue with today's engines. Most have aluminum blocks which match the aluminum pistons much better from a coefficient of thermal expansion perspective. Driving away slowly and keeping the revs down for the first mile or two is the best way to warm things up. I've done this for 20 years now with very good results. Usually by the time I get done scrapping the windshield, the car has idled at least 1 minute and often longer which is plenty as long as you can see out the windshield. The Sonata is worse in the defrost department than my other vehicles so often the fog on the windshield is the limiting factor for me time-wise.
Matt
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That is what I've done in the past. Yes, it works well. The two miles to the highway is sufficient to get it ready for some speed. It does take some time for the oil to really get heated though.
My Sonata new has a remote start. I do not intend of driving off on a cold car nearly as often. Now that the weather is getting cold, I set the system to "defrost" when I park it for the night and by the time I leave the house, the windshield is clear. Only 3 months old, I've not had a serious need for defrost yet so I'm not sure how it compares to other cars.
Sure is nice to hit that button and go out to a reasonably warm car, including the heated seat. I don't know why I never put a remote in my last couple of cars. Any I own in the future will have it.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) garage. The only problem is I now have three cars. Since the Sonata is the newest and cheapest car, it sits outside. I keep my Chevy truck with snowplow inside as when I need to plow my driveway I don't want to have to worry about my plow vehicle starting or having to clear all the snow off so I can see to plow. It is nice to open the garage door, lower the plow and away I go!
Matt
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Garage? Oh, the place I have my workshop. Both cars sit outside
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I built a 12x24 outbuilding for shop and lawn equipment, but not being heated is a pain in the winter.
Matt
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wrote in message

The wife isn't so happy when I get a paint job in this time of year. Both cars have to stay outside while I'm painting.
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Snip
Matt, A heated garage is great if you live in an area that does not salt the roads. You are MUCH better off keeping the car cold if you do not have the ability to wash off the underside with all the salt accumulation before putting it in a heated area. The warm air will greatly enhance the speed of the salt to work corrosive magic on the vehicle. Double Tap

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Double Tap wrote:

I agree, but my garage is under my house as part of the basement so it gets some heat from the house, hence my comment about "being sort of heated."
Matt
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I leave my plow truck outside so that both cars can stay in the garage. Ugh!!! Few things are more fun than cleaning a full size pickup off after a couple feet of snowfall. I have a high-rise cap on mine and man can that thing hold a pile up of snow.
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Mike Marlow wrote:

Yes, I have a high-rise (well moderate rise anyway) cap as well with an extended cab truck. I'd much rather clean the Sonate 10 times than the truck once so the truck stays in the garage. Also, the truck at 14 years of age is still worth as much as the Sonata! :-) And I don't like the plow cylinders out in the weather as they rust pretty fast if they aren't kept greased up. I'm not impressed with the chrome that Western used on their angle cylinders. The owner's manual says to coat them with grease for storage and I found out the first year why they recommend that!
Matt
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I worried about that at one time with my Fisher, because I've had other cylinders rust up when left out in the elements. My plow is a '94 and it sits outside all year long. I have no rust on any of my cylinders at all. I don't take any precautions with them to prevent rust either. I just drop the plow on some concrete blocks for the summer and let it sit there all summer long.
The issue I can deal with from time to time that you don't have to contend with, is that depending on how cold it is at night, my plow can freeze to the ground and sometimes the pump won't lift it free. I have to rock the truck to break it free. I try to keep a scrap of 2x8 under it when I think the temps will be in the ranges to cause this problem, but every now and then...
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Mike Marlow wrote:

How do you like the Fisher overall? I like the Western other than the rust prone cylinders. The controls are great (I have the hand-held controller which is nice with the standard tranny) and the poly blade is nice also. If they had only used better chrome on the cylinders...

Yes, another reason to keep the plow inside. I also like having the cab somewhat warm when I climb inside otherwise the truck is just getting warm when I get done plowing!
Matt
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