I really like my Fisher all in all. Mine is a fully hydraulic and I really
wanted an electric over hydraulic, but I took the first good used deal I
came across. The electric over hydraulics are much faster than the full
hydraulic models and they have refined them so that they don't just suck the
alternator right down when you use them like they used to.
Mine is a minute mount and I really like the way that my truck mounts tuck
up againts my truck frame a lot cleaner than some of the other plow
manufacturers do. I really don't have anything that hangs beneath the front
of my truck at all to speak of. My blade is steel which I really like. My
plow does not have down pressure like some of the newer plows do, and you
count on the weight of the blade when you are back blading away from a
building. We get a lot more snow up here than you do (except for this year)
and back blading is a part of plowing - inescapable.
I fire my truck up before I start to wipe the snow off, and then I usually
go back inside and let the truck get nice and warm before I go plow. My
driveway takes me about a half of an hour to plow (if I get meticulous about
it), and I have a couple of friends that I plow also, so I'm in my truck for
an hour or two when I go out to plow. That cast iron 350 takes a lot longer
to warm up to the point of delivering heat than my six cylinders do.
My Western is electro-hydraulic and it moves pretty fast and doesn't
really affect the alternator when in operation, but it does dim the
lights a little!
Same with mine. It hangs from a chain on the lift arm so its weight is
all that provides down force, but this hasn't been a problem. Mine also
has the mount where everything detaches, including the power unit. All
I have on the truck is a small frame under the bumper and two electrical
cords in the grill.
My driveway is only 1800' long and I can plow it and my parking areas
around the house in 20 minutes if the snowfall is less than a foot or
35-40 minutes for deeper snows. I have a cast iron V-6 (4.3L) and it
takes a long time to warm up at idle (probably 15 minutes). Even
plowing, I don't get a lot of heat for nearly 10 minutes, but once it
starts heating it will roast you right out of the cab. When I drive it
to work, it takes about 8 highway miles to get it fully warmed up on the
temperature gauge, but then it will heat a small house. I have to turn
the fan completely off if I'm at highway speeds and move the temp
indicator about halfway towards cold. I wish the Sonata had even half
of the heating capability of my K1500!
That might be the instinctive conclusion Bob, but dino has served well over
the decades. I've never lost a car to lubrication problems, even with the
thickening issues. It's not all about the lubricants though. It's also
about the metal components that make up such things as engines,
transmissions, etc. They are built with tolerances, expansions, etc. There
is an operating temperature for a vehicle and it's not dead cold.
And... as I had stated earlier, you need a warm engine to get functional
Mine I-4 doesn't rev that high, maybe 1600-1800 and then settles down to
1000 until warmed up. Yes, idling more than a few seconds is just
wasting gas. I idle maybe 10 seconds and then drive away slowly.
2000 RPM doesn't sound abnormally high for a cold start in cold weather.
Part of the strategy is to warm the engine quickly enough to be able to
use the oxygen sensors to be able to control fuel mixture.
Keep in mind, that all cars are designed first with pollution control in
mind (Oxygen sensors), not with longevity.
I would not ride any engine before oil reached all the places and engine
runs smoothly. Keep in mind, that most damage to your engine happens in
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