High RPM on cold start!

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I really like my Fisher all in all. Mine is a fully hydraulic and I really wanted an electric over hydraulic, but I took the first good used deal I came across. The electric over hydraulics are much faster than the full hydraulic models and they have refined them so that they don't just suck the alternator right down when you use them like they used to.
Mine is a minute mount and I really like the way that my truck mounts tuck up againts my truck frame a lot cleaner than some of the other plow manufacturers do. I really don't have anything that hangs beneath the front of my truck at all to speak of. My blade is steel which I really like. My plow does not have down pressure like some of the newer plows do, and you count on the weight of the blade when you are back blading away from a building. We get a lot more snow up here than you do (except for this year) and back blading is a part of plowing - inescapable.

I fire my truck up before I start to wipe the snow off, and then I usually go back inside and let the truck get nice and warm before I go plow. My driveway takes me about a half of an hour to plow (if I get meticulous about it), and I have a couple of friends that I plow also, so I'm in my truck for an hour or two when I go out to plow. That cast iron 350 takes a lot longer to warm up to the point of delivering heat than my six cylinders do.
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-Mike-
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Mike Marlow wrote:

My Western is electro-hydraulic and it moves pretty fast and doesn't really affect the alternator when in operation, but it does dim the lights a little!

Same with mine. It hangs from a chain on the lift arm so its weight is all that provides down force, but this hasn't been a problem. Mine also has the mount where everything detaches, including the power unit. All I have on the truck is a small frame under the bumper and two electrical cords in the grill.

My driveway is only 1800' long and I can plow it and my parking areas around the house in 20 minutes if the snowfall is less than a foot or 35-40 minutes for deeper snows. I have a cast iron V-6 (4.3L) and it takes a long time to warm up at idle (probably 15 minutes). Even plowing, I don't get a lot of heat for nearly 10 minutes, but once it starts heating it will roast you right out of the cab. When I drive it to work, it takes about 8 highway miles to get it fully warmed up on the temperature gauge, but then it will heat a small house. I have to turn the fan completely off if I'm at highway speeds and move the temp indicator about halfway towards cold. I wish the Sonata had even half of the heating capability of my K1500!
Matt
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in
That might be the instinctive conclusion Bob, but dino has served well over the decades. I've never lost a car to lubrication problems, even with the thickening issues. It's not all about the lubricants though. It's also about the metal components that make up such things as engines, transmissions, etc. They are built with tolerances, expansions, etc. There is an operating temperature for a vehicle and it's not dead cold.
And... as I had stated earlier, you need a warm engine to get functional defrosters, etc.
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Vineeth wrote:

Mine I-4 doesn't rev that high, maybe 1600-1800 and then settles down to 1000 until warmed up. Yes, idling more than a few seconds is just wasting gas. I idle maybe 10 seconds and then drive away slowly.
Matt
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2000 RPM doesn't sound abnormally high for a cold start in cold weather. Part of the strategy is to warm the engine quickly enough to be able to use the oxygen sensors to be able to control fuel mixture.
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hyundaitech wrote:

Thanks a lot. Now I can rest assured that my car is not peculiar.. & I need not feel guilty for not idling too long.. I must say this is an awesome group...
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Vineeth wrote:

Keep in mind, that all cars are designed first with pollution control in mind (Oxygen sensors), not with longevity. I would not ride any engine before oil reached all the places and engine runs smoothly. Keep in mind, that most damage to your engine happens in your driveway.
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