Hosing off engine bay

Page 1 of 3  
I want to clean the engine bay of my 2001 Accent with a garden hose. What should I waterproof before doing this?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
accent wrote:

Nothing. Just spray on whatever cleaner you have then hose it off. Afterwards, drive the car until the engine is good and warm to drive off any moisture.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

WHAT????? Please Brian - don't do this. A dousing with a garden hose into the alternator followed by an immediate startup is just begging for problems. As well - such a simple advisory to a person asking this kind of question invites other such issues as water introduced into the air intake of the engine.
A better answer would have been that you can indeed hose off an engine compartment but be aware there are areas that are sensitive to large amounts of water. Large amounts of water are not normally expected in an engine compartment. One should take precautions to protect the alternator from being deluged by the water. Also ensure not to flood the air intake. Allow the compartment to dry before starting the engine.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike Marlow wrote:

THE SKY IS FALLING, THE SKY IS FALLING!
Give me a break, Mike. What's with all this alarmist nonsense? I hose off engines all the time and NEVER have the problems you describe. Any water that gets into the alternator drains right out the bottom. You'd really have to try hard to get enough water to cause a problem into the intake while simply rinsing the engine bay. If you're really worried about such silliness, rinse the engine bay with the engine running. Any water that hits the alternator will be spun right out and any fine mist that gets into the intake will go right through the engine. It's completely unnecessary, but maybe it will make you feel better.
It never ceases to amaze me what some people get worked up about.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Bullshit Brian. You've never seen me post anything that was alarmist.

Well then, I guess it amazes me at what some people will do and consider it not to be problematic. I too hose my engine compartments but just not quite the way you do. Have I seen problems from people blasting them as you suggest? Yes.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike Marlow wrote:

Yes, hosing down an alternator that isn't spinning and able to sling off the water is a very bad idea. Hosing down one that is spinning and able to sling of water is just a bad idea. :-)
Matt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Matt Whiting wrote:

Sorry Matt, but that's just plain wrong. It's not a problem at all.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Brian Nystrom wrote:

I say it is. Call up an alternator manufacturer and ask them.
Matt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike Marlow wrote:

Well, you did so this time.

Who said anything about "blasting"???
The original question was about "hosing off" the engine bay. As I said, I've done so hundreds of times and have NEVER, repeat NEVER had any problems with alternators or water in intakes. If an alternator couldn't handle a little water, it would never survive in an engine bay. While it's true that you don't want to SUBMERGE an alternator, a little spray from the outside is no problem.
The only time I've ever seen ANY problems from rinsing off an engine were in cases of degraded spark plug leads or a cracked distributor caps. Rinsing an engine while it's running is a good way to diagnose moisture related problems such as that.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
What i do on all my cars, including my classic 1970 Vette, is cover the Distributor/Coil/Alternator with a small plastic bag then spray Simple Green detergent on the motor , sidewalls, firewall, radiator, and a/c condensor ... let it sit for 1 minute....use a brush to get at any heavy deposits, then use a light spray of water from a garden hose. I then blow off the water with compressed air , wait another 5 minutes with it out in the open air, remove the plastic bags...then fire it up and immediately go for a 3 mile drive . Ive never had any problems doing it this way.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
dave wrote:

That's pretty much what I do, other than using a foamy engine cleaner rather than Simple Green. I avoid spraying a heavy jet of water and try to avoid electrical parts. It isn't hard if you are careful.
Matt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
'That's pretty much what I do, other than using a foamy engine cleaner rather than Simple Green. I avoid spraying a heavy jet of water and try to avoid electrical parts. It isn't hard if you are careful. Matt '
REPLY: IVe tried Gunk but it tends to leave white streaks behind, so, i switched to Simple Green which is not as harsh and leaves no residue. If i could find a Degreaser that doesnt leave a residue, id probably switch back .
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
dave wrote:

I haven't had significant problems with the white streaks, but then I don't leave the stuff on the recommended 10 or so minutes. It seems to streak mainly in areas that dry before you rinse them, and on a warm engine (usually also recommended), the stuff can dry quickly. I tend to foam it on, wait a minute or two and they flush it off. I repeat a couple of times if necessary.
Matt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Matt Whiting wrote:

I agree with Matt. Multiple applications clean better than longer wait times and thorough rinsing eliminates residue. Regular cleaning prevents gunk buildup.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I switched to Purple Cleaner which is available is almost every parts store. The stuff really works well to break down grease and it's liquid. As long as you don't spray it on a hot engine (which will cause it to dry too fast), you don't have the same problems a Gunk.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I have had good luck with a pressure washer. I was always careful not to blast the distributor, alternator, and harness plugs. I would do it with the engine very warm, but not hot. When I could barely hold my hand on the hottest part (probably the exhaust manifold) I would start washing.
Then it happened.
I washed my Mazda 626 engine, being careful as always.
Engine wouldn't start. Using an air compressor and paper towels, I carefully dried out the distributor and all the plug wires.
It started, but it ran rough. I ran it a while to heart it up, and left the hood open.
Came back in 3 hours, it started but ran a bit rough. I let it run for about 10 minutes, and saw smoke. The cat converter was RED HOT. That was obviously caused by the miss, as raw fuel from a dead cylinder got into the converter.
It took me another 2 hours to get it dried out completely, and I'm lucky the car didn't burn down.
--
Bob

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob Adkins wrote:

Hyundais don't have distributors anymore. Problem solved.
Regardless, I would never let a rough-running engine run that long for any reason, whether I had just rinsed the engine bay or not.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Wow. I hope I do not have the same problem. I carefully cleaned around the engine under the hood but something must be wet. The car starts and idles really rough. The engine knocks on low rpm. The Check Engine Light is still blinking. Everything looks dry but I will wait until morning before driving again.
Hope I do not end up with the cleanest piece of junk.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
accent wrote:

Did you clean it with the engine warm (not hot!)? I tend to wait 30 minutes or so (drip water on the exhaust manifold if you can get to it, and what the water just evaporates quickly, but doesn't "hiss", then I clean the engine. Doing so means you'll have enough residual heat to help dry things out pretty well. I personally don't start the engine right after washing it. I want things to have time to dry out before running it.
Matt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

The car sat for about 2 hours then I moved it out of the garage and started hosing. If anything the engine was not warm. In hindsight, I agree that allowing the parts to dry before driving is a good idea.
Anyways, I just started the car again. It is starting to sound better so things must be drier. The CEL is still blinking. Hope things return to normal by morning.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.