Oil Filter price

OK, I hit 6,000 miles and did my first oil change myself (the first was a freebie from the dealer where I purchased tha car).
My dealer wanted $19 for the cartridge filter on the '06 V6 Sonata WITHOUT
the O-rings (wanted another $2 for the 2 O-rings). A total of $21.
So before purchasing I called another dealer which actually happens to be closer to my home, but in a pretty bad area. Anyway, they quoted my $6.82 for the filter AND the O-rings. However, when I got there, we found that he apparently made a mistake and it was acutally $10.50 for the kit. Still much better than the other dealer. He also threw in the washers for the oil drain plug. I bought two kits from him for less than one would have cost at the original dealer.
The oil change was really a piece of cake. I really like the canister filter. Much easier than having to lay on your back and try to crank the thing off with a filter wrench.
The only extra step is working to get the old O-rings off the spindle. The tiny one was particularly annoying, but I managed to get it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Putting the new O-rings on was easy.
I did need to add a full 6 quarts of Mobil 1 to get it up to the full mark on the dip stick. It cost me $30 for oil as I was unable to find a sale. I will be watching the sale fliers in the future and probably buying by the case if I can.
Anyway, just thought I would share. Sorry for the long post.
Eric
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Eric G. wrote:

Pays to shop around, eh? Does NAPA carry filters yet for your 06? They might be cheaper yet and likely higher quality to boot. My 2.4L still uses the spin-on filter, but I haven't yet changed the oil (1800 miles now), but will soon. I plan to change at 2500 using dino oil again and then switch to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and change at my usual 5,000 mile intervals after that.
My local dealer offered me a free oil change if I give them all top scores on the survey I'm supposed to receive following the "recall" work that was done on my car (replacing the seat recline handle, rubber in the cup holder, trim pieces in the door handles and adding extra glue to the headliner in the rear seat area). I asked him for three free oil filters instead as I change my own and he agreed to that. However, I have yet to get the survey so he may not get the results back before I need my first oil filter! In that case, I'll likely buy a NAPA Gold if they have them on hand in time. The price will likely be similar or less than the $9 wanted by the dealer, and the Gold is a pretty good filter from all accounts I've read.
Matt
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For the price I paid, I will probably stick to the Hyundai filter for a while. I did check NAPA and Advanced Auto and both told me to not expect a filter until after the summer at the earliest.
One thing I did discover at the auto parts stores was that apparently GM (Chevy to be exact) is also starting to use canister filters on a couple of models. One of them was the same length and OD, but had a smaller ID than mine. Not that I would have used it if it did match, but it was interesting to see other auto makers also going with the canister. That filter was at NAPA and only cost $1 less than the Hyundai filter, but did not have any O-rings in the box (maybe not needed on the Chevy?).
I may also switch to a longer interval using the synthetic, but I haven't decided for sure yet.
I also remember reading about your mud flaps. The dealer where I purchased the car told me it would be $129 for the 4 mud flaps. He told me there were 4 different part numbers. I passed on that while I was there. When I came home I looked on Hyundais web site and it showed only 2 part numbers (1 front pair and 1 rear pair). While I was on-line I ordered the mud flaps from the same dealer that gave me the cheaper oil filter and paid only $59-something for the two pairs.
What amazes me about these two dealers is that the one that is cheaper on the parts will not budge on the price of a new car, while the other dealer gave me the car for exactly what I wanted to pay (after a bit of haggling) but rips off customers for the parts. Go figure.
Eric
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Eric G. wrote:

Wow, $129! Yes, only two part numbers as you found out. I paid $20/pair with the total being about $8 and that included the shipping! I've since ordered the hood deflector from them and have been pleased with both orders. They came quickly and the prices can't be beat.
Matt
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Eric G. said: "One thing I did discover at the auto parts stores was that apparently GM (Chevy to be exact) is also starting to use canister filters on a couple of models. One of them was the same length and OD, but had a smaller ID than mine. Not that I would have used it if it did match, but it was interesting to see other auto makers also going with the canister. That filter was at NAPA and only cost $1 less than the Hyundai filter, but did not have any O-rings in the box (maybe not needed on the Chevy?)."......
GM's increasingly common 2.2 L4 Ecotech engine uses a canister, located on the top of the engine. It DOES use an O-ring, but all of the filters I have purchased already have it pre-assembled into the top of the filter. Once you get used to the idea that it is NOT a spin-on, you start to like replacing this - a lot.
Tom Wenndt
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The kit (Oil filter and O rings in a box) was ~$12 here in Wilmington, NC. According to the parts book, the oil filter is not a separate item. It's only sold as a kit. Part number 26320-3C100. Also, Purolator will have one out in about a Month. Part number L35610. I talked to an engineer at the plant in Fayetteville, and they are about to start production. Apparently, a given type of filter is not made continuously - and this has not been made before. They tool up, make four trillion of whatever filter, and move on to the next that they need sock of.

5 Quart jug of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart is usually $20.00. But two, and the second jug will last you five oil changes at 1 quart per. I've been using Wal-Mart supertech full synthetic with no problems. That runs between $9 and $12 for 5 quarts. I just got rid of a 2003 Malibu with 60 K miles on it that was run since 10k with that in it. I peeked in the valve cover, and it was very clean, as was the innards of the oil filter mount. No leaks, either. It's packaged by Warren Performance Products. It is really Quaker State http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/23945_1.pdf

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Bob wrote:

It is odd that Hyundai chose a 6 quart capacity for the new V-6. I wonder of the top-o-the-engine canister filter required more capacity. I'm glad my 4 cylinder uses less that 5 quarts so I can get one change per 5 quart jug. Even the big old American V-8s got by with 5 quarts, at least the ones I remember. :-)
Matt
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before you are out of useable molecules can't be a bad thing. I believe that oil wear, and not dirt is the primary reason diesels have so much more oil in them. Another question... Does all the oil drain out of the filter between starts? There doesn't seem to be any check valve like on a normal filter, and it doesn't have any oil in it when you open it. If so, does this mean the engine is starting dry every time? As far as the canister causing the need for more capacity, the total volume of it seems to be the same as a normal filter.
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Bob wrote:

I understand the simplistic answer, I just don't see the need, especially since they didn't go to longer change intervals. My only thought is that the canister system requires more oil.
Diesels use more oil because it needs to suspend a lot more particulate matter than a gas engine. Look how black the oil in a diesel gets and how fast it gets black. The fuel is a lot dirtier and more carbon particulate matter is created during combustion.
Matt
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I've noticed that the oil seems to drain out of the canister in a few minutes. If I pull the car in and immediately remove the top of the canister, I get oil all over the place. But if I drain the oil first, go to parts and get the new oil filter, then return, finish on the bottom of the car and remove the top of the canister, it's empty.
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Try https://www.hyundaipartsonline.com I purchased a case of filters ( 10 ) for my 04 Santa Fe for appox.$45.00
Striker

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