Sonata armrest pad latch

I have a 2008 Sonata.
A couple of days ago, the latch for the upper compartment in the center console broke. It is just plastic, but I am surprised that it broke so easily.
I went to the dealer, and they said that the entire armrest pad will have to be replaced, as the latch is part of it.
The cost is $250, so I can't really justify replacing it. I have checked the salvage yards, and they only have very early 21st century and before Sonatas.
Has anyone else had this happen, and if so, how were you able to fix it? I know that superglue won't hold, so I am wondering if velcro or something similar will work.
On later Sonatas, the latch itself can be replaced for less than $5.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Regards,
Kirk M.
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"Kirk Matheson" wrote in message
I have a 2008 Sonata.
A couple of days ago, the latch for the upper compartment in the center console broke. It is just plastic, but I am surprised that it broke so easily.
I went to the dealer, and they said that the entire armrest pad will have to be replaced, as the latch is part of it.
The cost is $250, so I can't really justify replacing it. I have checked the salvage yards, and they only have very early 21st century and before Sonatas.
Has anyone else had this happen, and if so, how were you able to fix it? I know that superglue won't hold, so I am wondering if velcro or something similar will work.
On later Sonatas, the latch itself can be replaced for less than $5.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Regards,
Kirk M. *********
Is this what you are looking for? http://www.jimellishyundaiparts.com/products/Hyundai/2008/Sonata/SPRING---ARMREST-UPPER-LATCH/3409230/846643K000.html
Larry
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On Thursday, July 25, 2013 10:21:53 PM UTC-6, Larry wrote:

That looks like the part. I wonder why he said that I needed the whole armrest pad.
KM
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On Fri, 26 Jul 2013 08:02:23 -0700 (PDT), Kirk Matheson

It is probably only listed as the entire assembly in the Hyundai parts manual. Some aftermarket dealers are smart enough to sell what you need and make a profit.
This is not just Hyundai, not just car makers that do it. Many appliance makers are just as bad. I needed a seal for a pneumatic vale and they said, sorry, not repairable, buy a new one for $400. I found a different brand for $100 that does the job.
When the heated seat element in my Buick went bad, the dealer said they have to replace the entire seat bottom for $672. I bought a Sonata instead. Especially since it was year two of my 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty. I had 38,000 miles so GM said tough crap. So far, it cost them the sale of three cars.
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On Thursday, July 25, 2013 10:21:53 PM UTC-6, Larry wrote:

I went to the dealer to order this part. 84661E is for the upper latch. The very one that I need. They got checking, and found the part in stock.
The part they have, is not the same. My latch is slightly larger. This 84661E is the same part number that is called out for the 2006 - 2009 Sonata, which is pretty much the same style.
Looks like I am out of luck. I superglued it back together, but I know that it won't hold.
Thanks for the feedback.
KM
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On Monday, July 29, 2013 10:18:54 AM UTC-4, Kirk Matheson wrote:

You could super glue a flat magnet to one piece and a flat piece of steel to the other.
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On Monday, July 29, 2013 11:33:05 AM UTC-5, hyundaitech wrote:

a, which is pretty much the same style.

I have a 2010 Sonata, and replaced the top console lid latch (Part # 8466 1-3K000-V2; Description "Latch-Arm 41") after buying it from my Hyundai dea ler for $7.67. The job will take about 20 minutes. The console lid schemat ic can be viewed at this link: http://www.jimellishyundaiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assemblyA439 8 [Note that this schematic shows the console as viewed from the back passe nger compartment. Not all details of the console lid or the latch placemen t are shown, or shown clearly. For example, the fact that the lid itself ( Part #84660) has a top and bottom half is only indicated by the letters "a" and "b" on the schematic.) First remove the 4 Phillips screws that hold the bottom half of the lid t o the top. (Again,the schematic doesn't show that there is a top and botto m, but by lifting the console lid you can see that there are, and that they 're held together by the 4 screws.) The 2 forward screws are easy to acces s. The back 2 screws are difficult. Since I didn't have a flexible screwd river, I removed the back panel of the console (Part # 84680D) first. This part is not held on with screws. Gently pry it away, one side at a time. (You'll have to do this from the back passenger compartment. I started on the lower right edge, right above the transmission hump, and then did the opposite side.) Once it's off it's easier to access those back screws (but you may find a small-handled screwdriver best, as it's still limited space .) Once the screws are removed, gently pry the bottom lid half away from the top using a flat blade screwdriver or a table knife. As you separate the top and bottom, some small broken latch parts will fall out of their places . Don't lose the spring (Part # 85663 E/F). The spring has 2 coils, that fit over 2 side pins of the new latch. (It's these pins, molded onto eithe r side of the latch, that break off so easily.) Also, you'll notice the sp ring has a U-shaped notch/bend. This notch should rest on top of the latch tab that's just above and to the rear of the pins. (The old tab will have had a rubber piece going through a hole in the tab. If you still have the broken latch with this rubber piece, pry the piece out and re-insert it in the new latch, with the tapered end pointing down. If you've lost it you can still use the new latch. The rubber part appears to just serve as a pa d.) With the notch/bend resting on top of the latch tab, the 2 wire ends o f the spring will be pointing to the rear. Now put each spring coil over e ach of the latch pins (carefully, so you don't break the fragile pins). Yo u'll see 2 plastic molded semi-circle notches on the inside front of the bo ttom lid half that the latch pins slide into. Once the latch pins are in t hese notches, the latch is essentially installed. If the installation is c orrect, there should be some tension from the spring that causes the latch catch to go down into the receiving slot on the console, which keeps the li d shut. If this is working right, then replace the 4 screws that hold the top and bottom console lid halves together, and snap the back of the consol e back into place. Job done. Unfortunately, paying many thousands of dollars for a car doesn't give bu yers access to detailed information. This is part of how manufacturers pro tect their dealers, giving the dealership mechanics the advantage of knowle dge that buyers don't have, and requiring the buyers to spend more to get s imple contraptions fixed. If this information has helped you, do the same for other consumers sometime, when you figure out how to fix something, by posting your experience online. That's the best way to help each other. Th anks.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Great advice, but I think Kirk got disgusted and sold the car almost a year ago because he could not repair the latch.
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On Friday, July 26, 2013 at 12:13:00 AM UTC-4, Kirk Matheson wrote:

y.

natas.

similar will work.

difficult part is figuring out which way the spring goes. Rebecca attached are some diagrams that may be useful:) https://www.google.com/search?q 09+hyundai+sonata+console+repair&client =safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved FoQsARqF QoTCOWV39nyvMcCFYimcgoddXUJNA&biw40&bih1

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I did the same (dealer part $~12) - on the '09, unlike the discussion above on the '10 Sonata, I had the spring square shaped offset between the coils positioned below the tab in the plastic. The spring ends then lie pointing up. In the cushioned lid that was separated from it's frame, there are tw o plastic "rails" that the spring ends rest on. These the tension by pushi ng the two spring ends forward. You don't know this unless you look up into the cushioned piece. When I did a trial assembly, I wasn't quite happy wi th the tension on the clip, so I bent the spring end pieces (just past the coils) so they cocked a little further rearward. One was already slightly b ent, I bent it a touch more then the other one to match. When I pressed the lids together the 2nd time, it was great.
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On Friday, July 26, 2013 at 12:13:00 AM UTC-4, Kirk Matheson wrote:

I designed a 2006 Sonata upper console latch to replace the one my daughter broke. I am selling it at the below link. I also made it stronger in several places so it is more durable.
http://shpws.me/LIMT
D
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