Sonata Audio Install Woes HELP PLEASE!

Hi.
Got a question for you all. I have become quite frustrated and need direction. Here goes:
I have a 2003 Hyundai Sonata LX with Premium Sound (Cassette and CD).
I bought a JVC KD-DV5100 Deck. The Deck came with an HWH-1102 wiring harness.
I wired everything up correctly and there really are no shorts (so please don't go telling me I have a short, unless you are just making a joke at me ;)).
The deck turns on and functions correctly. The CD plays, the FM Tunes.
***No Sound comes through speakers***
When I put my old deck back in, sound works fine.
NOW HERE IS THE INTERRESTING PART:
Counting the wires in the harness that is physically wired to the car, there are 15 wires. I looked on Hyundai's site for any information as to explain which wires are for what systems in the car. Not any good info there that is readable(www.hmaservice.com).
Counting the number of wires coming from the HWH-1102 harness, there are only 14 wires.
This means one wire in my car is not being connected to anything when I use the adapter harness.
I am now at the point where I believe this one wire is the reason my speakers are making no noise when I connect the new stereo, but they work fine when I connect the old stereo.
The wires that I have connected from the car are as follows: Left Front Pos Left Front Neg Right Front Pos Right Front Neg Left Rear Pos Left Rear Neg Right Rear Pos Right Rear Neg Ignition Power Battery Power Ground (Black) Power Antenna Illumination Control Dimmer Ground (I have been grounding this wire, as the deck does not have an input for this wire.)
The wires from the deck that are not connected to the car system are: Parking Break (I have this grounded)
I am going off of memory, but I believe that is all the wiring info.
So to reiterate:
The new deck works fine, except no audio comes out. The old deck works 100% fine. The old deck receives 15 wires from the car. The new deck's adapter harness only receives 14 wires from the car (one wire is not connected)
Does anyone know what this mystery wire is, and is this what is causing my pain and suffering?
Sincerely,
Nathan
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Do you know if your car has an external amp, and if so, is the radio you purchased suitable for an external amp?
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I have the premium sound package from the factory (does that mean I have an amp?) Also, I have not installed or had an external amp installed since I bought it new from the dealer.
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This information came from a different thread, and I wanted to post it here for future people to be able to read:
Your car may have a factory amp the is not letting the signal get to the speakers. See if that American International harness has a "amp remote" wire and hook that to the amp remote wire on the JVC. Some of the JVC's only have 1 remote wire that does both amp remote and power antenna. If it only has the one remote output hook that to the amp remote on the AI harness
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trying hooking up the + and - speaker wires to the RCA outputs on your new head unit ... leave volume all the way down turn everything on and slowly turn up the volume ... it should kick in at a very low volume setting ... but yea your symptoms sound like it uses an external amp ... and the spare wire would be the amps signal wire ... for testing hook that wire up with your power antenna output wire .. and it should have sound ... if sound is real quiet or none at all.. it may be a "high level" external amp ... in that case run speakers how you originally had them ...
Nate wrote:

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| Hi. | | The deck turns on and functions correctly. The CD plays, the FM Tunes. | | ***No Sound comes through speakers*** |
The quick and dirty electronics pro test would be to substitute one or two speakers. It's easiest to do this on a workbench, especially if you've got 12v DC power, such as an old car battery that's charged up. Hell, a pack of 9 D-sized flashlight batteries will probably work fine for this purpose, too.
I assume that you received some sort of diagram with the unit, so if you find the speaker lines, you can jury rig a connection to your speakers and see if you can get any sound into them. The impedance of those speakers won't be critical so long as you avoid cranking the thing up real loud. Don't run it for a long time with the leads unconnected or connected to the wrong impedance speaker (hint: car speakers and home speakers aren't the same impedance).
What you want to determine is whether your output transistors are blown or not. Many circuits don't have protection, so if they've been run into a short circuit, even for a fraction of a second, they may be fried. One strand of a wire touching the other is a short circuit.
You could also have the thing set on some sort of auxilliary input. I don't know; there are a few different possible simple mis-settings that will kill the audio, so look for any of these. For example, does the thing have a "mute" switch, and is it engaged? In other words, take a deep breath and apply common sense by elimination. It's easier to do this on a workbench than in the car. Test with the radio rather than the CD at first, but ensure that you've got some sort of antenna connected! The unit may mute between stations and be fooling you that way.
In this manner, I have permanently healed your pain. That will be $35; see my receptionist on the way out. Unfortunately, we had a sale on suffering last week; so sorry: suffering's full price.
Richard
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Hahaha, that was a funny last paragraph...
Thanks Guys. The problem was that one wire. The Factory Amp (which I didn't even know I had, hehe) had a remote lead that the adapter for my car (HWH-1102) was not connecting to. The hole in the adapter was there, just no wire running through it.
So to fix this issue, I took one of an ISO connector's wires (butchering the connector as I had no need for it), and ran it into the HWH-1102 in the hole that should have been connecting to the car's remote amp lead. I then split the antenna/remote lead coming off of the JVC deck to fead both the antenna lead of the car and the remote amp lead of the car (the new wire).
I grounded the parking break lead to the chassis so DVD playback works while in motion, but now it appears my dimmer ground is not correctly grounded (I grounded this to the chassis too, but I guess I should have grounded it to the negative ground on the battery). I'll fix that when I install the touch panel LCD monitor in my dash :)
Thanks for your comments.
Nathan
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Nate wrote:

Fix the DVD-enable wire. You hit and hurt/kill somebody and it can be the difference between a $150 traffic ticket and life imprisonment...
They recently tried to nail a kid over his indash DVD and running into/over somebody, people died. Luckily in his case the DVD player had been wired correctly and the dead people's case was 'destroyed' at that point...
Otherwise the guy would be Bruce's bitch for the rest of your life. I dunno how you swing, but I doubt its the way Bruce wants you to...
JS
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