Synthetic oil opinions?

Hi, I have a 3.3L V6 engine in my Sonata filled with normal mineral oil. I purchased the car brand new 4 months ago here in the UK and have done 2500 miles. I thought it would be a good idea to change oil after the break-in period. My dealer only uses Total Quartz 9000 5W-40 synthetic oil.

Some questions.

1) Anyone have any comments about this oil? The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. I'm wondering if 5W-40 will still be ok?

2) I read around the internet that it is a good idea to break-in using mineral oil and then change to synthetic. Any comments as to what a typical mileage would be to fill with synthetic?

3) Interestingly, my dealer also sells Citroen cars, and these come filled with synthetic from new. I read on the internet that synthetic is 'too slippery' to allow for proper break-in. I'm wondering if this adversly affects break-in/ engine life?

BTW, the cost for oil and filter is 60 GBP

cheers, nick

Reply to
NickNike
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Then go to another dealer or an independent shop.

Do you think your dealer knows better than the high priced, silled, experienced engineers that designed the engine? They specify a particular weight for a reason so why chance something else?

Some high performance engiens do come iwth synthetics. It is better oil, but do you really need it? How long do you expect to keep the car? I've gone 200,000 miles on a few cars with no oil related problems so spending more moneyh for "better" would be no gain for me.

OUCH, I'd find another place. I know places around here that will do it for less than half that.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

Use the oil weight recommended in the manual. I use synthetic oil in my car, but it doesn't cost me anywhere near what you've quoted, so it's worth it to me. I would never pay such an exorbitant price for an oil change!

Reply to
Brian Nystrom

Id be curious to read HyundaiTechs answers to these questions ., but, Id go with the mfgr's recommendation for oil weight . I dont think 5w40 is the recommended . Im running 5w30 synthetic Mobil 1 with KandN synthetic Oil filter in my 2002 Hyundai SantaFe 2.7 litre for maximum protection. I know they have Walmart Stores over in the UK, so, why dont you just buy some ramps , Mobil 1 Oil with oil filter and do it yourself ? Youll save alot of money plus it could be a wonderful bonding time with the wife !

Reply to
Dave in Lake Villa

Definitely use only what's recommended in the owner's manual. According to the U.S. shop manual, the specified oil is 5W-20, grade SJ or better.

5W-30 is listed as an acceptable oil. So I'd recommend using 5W-20 if you can find it, and if not, 5W-30.

It's my personal opinion that there's no significant advantage to synthetic oil if you use normal oil change intervals. In addition, manuafacturers don't allow longer intervals because synthetic is used. I've driven cars up to 328,000 miles on dino oil. And that particular car never once had an oil-related failure. In every case where I was able to verify the mileage on the engine, I've achieved over 200,000 miles on every engine, and only one (out of four) had an oil-related failure.

Reply to
hyundaitech

Many thanks for the replies. cheers, Nick

Reply to
NickNike

Hyundaitech correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the owners manual allow for 10W-30 as well?

Reply to
paulgyro

I don't have an owner's manual to check at the moment, so I cannot say. I figured this was an exercise that Nick could undertake himself. But if someone here wants to actually look this up in their 2006 Sonata Owner's Manual, I'd be happy to hear the results.

Reply to
hyundaitech

From the book: NOTE:

o For good fuel economy, SAE 5W-20 (5W-

30), ILSAC GF-3 engine oil is preferred

regardless of regional option and engine

variation.

o If SAE 5W-20, ILSAC GF-3 engine oil is

not available, secondary recommended

engine oil for corresponding temperature

range can be used.

Reply to
Bob

If you're going to go to Walmart, you can get their SuperTech synthetic oil in a 5 quart jug for a little over half the cost of Mobil 1. Before anyone starts speculating, SuperTech Synthetic is a full synthetic oil, it's NOT recycled and it's blended by Warren Oil, a company that produces many of the major brand oils that you see on the shelves. Oil analysis shows that it's comparable to these name brand oils in every way, except for the price.

Reply to
Brian Nystrom

The only reason you'd want to use a 10W based oil is if you live in a very hot climate.

Reply to
Brian Nystrom

'Warren Oil, a company that produces many of the major brand oils that you see on the shelves. Oil analysis shows that it's comparable to these name brand oils in every way, except for the price.'

REPLY: Interesting info. Thanks.

Reply to
Dave in Lake Villa

Thanks, Bob.

Reply to
hyundaitech

Yes it does state that earlier in the book in addition if you go to the end of the manual, 9-4 there is a Lubricate Chart that states the following: "SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30 (ALL TEMP. RANGE) ILSAC GF-3 SAE 10W-30 (ABOVE 0=B0F(-18=B0C))"

Reply to
paulgyro

I've used synthetics since the late 70s and will never go back to dino oil. The main reason is the much better winter starting. From a wear perspective, I believe synthetic is better, but probably not enough to be a reason to use it. It also tolerates high temperatures much better, which is important for some engines in some climates.

I use both Mobil 1 and Syntec and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000.

I stick with the manufacturers recommended viscosity range.

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

'and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000.'

REPLY: Whats the purpose of going longer in duration as the mileage increases past 100 k ?

Reply to
Dave in Lake Villa

In many vehicles I've owned the powertrain warranty ran at least 70,000 miles and the Hyundai is 100,000 and 10K exceeds the manufacturers service interval for most vehicles. So the main reason is to avoid any potential warranty excuses.

The other reason is that the value of the vehicle is pretty well down after 100K and my risk tolerance is thus higher. Although, so far I've not had a single vehicle of the 6 or so that I've done this with that showed any signs of distress with 10K change intervals.

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

Hi, I mention this in my original message, being The UK car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30.

I've homed-in on Amsoil 5W-30. This complies with the manual and I found a place in the UK that sells for a reasonable price. The specification looks pretty impressive as well. I want to use a good oil to keep my options open. I might keep the car for many years.

I'm still intrigued that some car manufacturers fill their new vehicles with synthetic oil. According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too good at lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to break-in with mineral oil. Or is this all hogwash?

I trust there are no subtle problems using Amsoil oil with a new Hyundai oil filter cartridge.

cheers, nick

Reply to
NickNike

'According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too good at lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to break-in with mineral oil. Or is this all hogwash?'

REPLY: Ive heard that you can use synthetic from the start but it just requires a longer breakin period. Many new higher performance cars use Mobil 1 from the factory including Corvette.

Reply to
Dave in Lake Villa

There has been a lot of discussion about whether synthetic is more slippery than dino oil, but I've yet to see anything definitive. One data point that suggests that this is a myth is synthetic oil is approved for us in motorcycles that use wet clutches. However, I used it in my Kawasaki Voyager and the clutch developed a shudder as it engaged. It never outright slipped once fully engaged, but the engagement wasn't as smooth. I switched back to dino oil and the probably largely disappeared, although it never went back to normal completely.

I suspect the difference in slipperiness is small, otherwise, wet clutches wouldn't work with synthetic oil as they are quit sensitive to the slipperiness of the oil they are bathed in.

I can't support it with data, but my opinion is that the break-in issues are mostly myth as with many other aspects of synthetics. Most new cars don't require much of a break-in anyway.

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

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