XG350 fuel injector and now EGR problems

I had a fuel injector go bad the other day on my 2002 XG350 - apparently it was spraying gas all the time. I was able to limp home and then got screwed
by the local garage when they fixed it. $600 to replace a fuel injector and do shoddy work like forget to plug one of the electrical connectors back together, leave the back 7 bolts on the plenum lose, forget to tighten one of the hose clamps on the air snorkel altogether, and over tighten the oil filter when they changed oil (that I didn't authorize). But all that is in the past, or is it?
A few days later the check engine light lit up and the code is P0401, EGR flow insufficient. Needless to say, I don't want to bring the car back to that garage (I'm sure they could scam some more money out of me - they were really slick). From what I could get out of the web site and my service book, this almost looks like a low vacuum problem rather than an EGR valve problem. Any recommendations as to how to fix it? I have a second 2002 XG350 that I can swap parts back and forth with. Also, If the EGR valve is a suspect, how does it come off? There are 2 bolts that hold it to the polonium, but then there is a big nut connecting it to a tube...looks like there isn't enough room back there to get a wrench on the nut. If the nut does come off, is there some sort of thread sealant required when you re-install? sparkplug antiseeze compound maybe? Also the manual stated that the EGR gasket should be replaced. How important is this? - I've done spark plugs a couple times and have never bothered with the EGR gasket.
Thanks
Dan
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Check the small things first. Make sure the shop connected the vacuum lines properly and that the EGR solenoid is plugged in. The shop may have removed or disconnected the EGR valve when removing the plenum to access the injector.
A quick check of the vacuum lines is to use needlenose pliers to pinch off the hose with the yellow stripe while the engine is idling. This should cause the EGR valve to open and the engine to run rough. If this occurs, you can pretty much conclude that the hoses are run correctly and that the EGR valve and passages are functioning normally, leaving the EGR solenoid and vacuum bleed-off valve as possible culprits.
It's doubtful that the EGR valve is the problem, but I've seen it occur. Before swapping parts, use the other XG to verify the proper installation of all parts.
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Other competancy issues aside, it was probably a good idea to change the oil. If there was a lot of gas being sprayed in the cylinders, it may have gotten down into the cranckase.
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solenoid. Whoever broke it then placed the vacuum hose back in position so nobody would notice. I had been over that whole circuit at least twice and did not see anything wrong. Not until I started troubleshooting and touching things did the problem become evident. I was able to glue the solenoid back together, but I'm going back to that garage tomorrow, armed with pictures and the price of a new solenoid ($52.20 plus tax) to do battle. This was a deliberate attempt to cover up a mistake on their part. For all I know, they knew I'd be back in a few hundred miles so they could try and get some more money out of me.
Dan
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i feel sorry for you and i got ripped off for the tune of 800.00 at a local garage also. i swear i will never take mine into one of these type of shops again, even if it's highly recommended , like this one was.

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wrote:

As automobile diagnosis and repair became much more technically oriented most old time shade tree mechanics such as myself admitted to themselves that they do not have the skills required for repairing cars especially those manufactured since the OBD system came about.
There are small independent repair shops in business who quit obviously also do not have these skills.
I use my judgment of the skill level required before deciding to take my vehicles to a in dependant shop or to the dealer. For example, I will take it to an independent that comes well recommended for brake work.
If it is a problem that requires some indepth analysis and diagnosis, I go to the dealer. (not to say a dealer mech can't screw up, but the odds are far better than at Jiffy Lube)
From an Old_Timer who worked on Model A Fords before they became collector cars.
Old_Timer
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i admire your candor Mr. old timer :-) you at least are big enough to admit when to say when . i agree with you ,i'm only 49 yrs old ,but I've learned a tremendous amount about troubleshooting these newer cars and have some good general diagnostic equipment, but my last ordeal, would have been done months earlier and for less money, if i would have gone to the dealer first thing. the moral of my story is, just because someone has a 7000.00 scan tool, doesn't mean they know how to use it.
<Old_Timer> wrote in message

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