1999 rodeo 2.2ltr looking for timing specs

I am looking for the instructions and if possible a diagram or pictures on how to set the timing belt on a 1999 rodeo 4 cylinder 2.2 ltr. I am replacing the head gasket and will be going up with a new water pump, timing belt, and any thing else on the top end that looks questionable. Any advice on head gasket replacement on this type of engine is also welcome. I understand this is an engine design from an Australian engine manufacturer. I guess that's why I cant find too much info. Thanks in advance for your help.

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I did this on my '98 Amigo with the X22RE engine - 2.2L DOHC.

Cylinder head bolt torgue specs To tighten the head bolts: tighten the bolts in the following sequence for each step.

7 8 3 4 2 1 6 5 10 9 Front of Engine

Step 1 = 18 Ft-Lbs Step 2 = 90 Degrees Step 3 = 90 Degrees Step 4 = 90 Degrees

To time time the valves, rotate the crank shaft so that the notch on the front of the shaft is in the 6 o'clock position. The intake camshaft has only one timing mark, which lines up with a delta (dart or "V") shape on the front of the engine housing. The camshaft timing mark will be in about the 10 o'clock position. The exhaust camshaft has 2 timing marks, one of which lines up with a similar delta on the front of the engine housing in about the 2 o'clock position. Sorry, but my engine is back together, and I don't remember which one is correct, but I think it was the one that was further clockwise. Before removing the old timing belt, you should rotate the crank shaft until the timing marks are aligned and either draw a picture of take some photos.

When the timing belt is on, but before adjusting the tensioner, rotate the crankshaft through at least 720 degrees (2 full rotations) and ensure that all the timing marks line up correctly. I think the bolt on the crank shaft is 22mm. This is also a good way to ensure that none of the valves and pistons are interfering with each other as it goes through the entire valve sequence - you should be able to feel resistance, and back off, double chech things if it doesn't feel right (do this with the spark plugs removed so you're not fighting compression). Finally, the tensioner has marks for where it should be adjusted for a new or used timing belt - used is one that has been run for about 5 minutes. You should use a new timing belt - cheap insurance once you're this far into a repair like this.

I purchased my Amigo used in the winter, then considerably overheated it that first summer because of a clogged radiator and the overheating blew the cylinder head gasket, and cracked the exhaust manifold. The block and head were well within the warpage limits, so I replace the gasket and manifold and I still get 24 mpg, even with 191,000 miles on it.

I hope this helps. I would like to hear what other questions or progress you have.

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Forgot to mention, you should probably get new cylinder head bolts too. I was doing mine "on the cheap" given the mileage on my Amigo and what I paid for it to begin with, but I had 3 bolts that I could only complete the last step of the torguing sequence to about 75 degrees before I stripped the torx head bolts. That, and the fact the the bolts are designed to be installed only once because they stretch while being tightened, and it's a pretty high stress (hence stretch) they endure during the tightening sequence.

With the amout of abuse this engine has suffered and how little it has cost me to repair it, I'm very impressed with design and manufacturing of it.

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