Replacing front CV boots on '96 Rodeo...

Hints? Problems? etc? Need to replace inner and outer. Front rotors need replaced, so figured right now while doing that, may as well do the boots too? How long of a job? Of course, assuming not too many problems. ;)

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While I haven't performed this repair on a Rodeo, I will say that the split boots are pieces of crap. DON'T use them. If your boots are already torn, you should replace the entire shaft as the grease has been slung out of the shaft and the joint has dirt and debris in it.
Just my .02
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wrote:

The "official" procedure calls for dropping the front axle in order to remove the left and right half-shafts from the axle housing. That's a pretty big job. And that's what most mechanics will charge for, I imagine.
But there is a very good procedure on 4x4wire.com...
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots /?
complete with pictures!
Basically... remove the upper ball joint taper from the steering knuckle/spindle, cut away the boot and disassemble the inner CV joint (the outer can not be disassembled), remove the outer boots, clean and repack joints, replace the boots and reassemble.
The inner joint CV "cup" stays on the truck so the axle doesn't have to be dropped. This procedure works great if the cup is reasonably intact... if it's broken or severely worn (very rare, as I understand it) you'll still need to drop the front axle with diffy in order to remove and replace it.
You don't have to remove the remainder of the half-shaft which requires disassembling the hubs but since you also want to replace the rotors you'll be able to do that easily. The outer CV joint (a Birfield joint or something like that) can't be disassembled, so just clean really well and repack.
Tips: The toughest part was removing the ball joint taper: I drenched the taper with penetrating lubricant overnight then whacked the knuckle alongside the taper with a 5lb hammer. Took a few whacks, but it popped out . Another hammer held tight on opposite side of the taper, would work even better, IME.
Loosen but leave the nut on the taper a few threads to catch the lower suspension/spindle, then pick up the lower suspension with a jack, remove the nut and then lower it.
When disassembling the inner CV... be sure to note the location of the balls in the cage, the star race and the cup race. Reassemble in exactly the same locations.
Use only CV joint grease... should come with the boots... not regular wheel bearing grease. Don't mix greases - even CV joint greases - unless you are POSITIVE they are the same chemistry!.
Good Luck BuddyWh
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