torque converter?

I'm suspecting the problem now with this POS is the torque converter. I've just paid 2K for a new transmission, replaced the egr valve, plugs, pcv valve, fuel pressure regulator, and all filters. It still
feels like the brakes on when I drive, especially uphill and a whistling vacuum of air is heard when I first crank it up. Out of desperation I was about to try to replace the air intake manifold gasket but someone riding with me today said it seemed like the torque converter. Any knowledgeable thoughts anyone? This trooper is ruining my life!
Oh-2001 trooper 3.5 4x4 ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

I read all your previous comments and did not detect if you had the computer codes pulled? Any Autozone will do it for free, worst case a small shop with an OBD-I reader would charge 50-75 bucks and get them for you.
my other suggestion would be to purchase from Napa or Autozone (avoid other parts dealers) the most expensive Idle Air Control sensor and Throttle Position Sensor, cost for both parts would be around 100, in total. Can't hurt either way.
finally, if you read my note and the link posted, you may have a faulty ground and could use any generic advise to install a ground wire between transmission and engine or transmission and body (or do both, no harm either way)
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Thanks for the posts. Unfortunately the transmission, which I just spent over $2000 to have rebuilt, has completely died again. It won't budge an inch. Assuming I don't take a sledgehammer to it in the next few days, I'll try your recommendations. Many thanks. ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

now this is most unfortunate. does the shop honor a warranty on the rebuild? it should if they are part of the national assoc for tran rebuilders.
just for comparison sake, I know this may not help you but for future reference for archives, a totally rebuilt trooper transmission from the most reputable place (they build 600+ units a month) in the USA costs just $1700 plus core deposit of $300-400 which is refunded once you ship back your old transmission. this rebuild is a complete job where all internal parts are replaced, not just the worn or suspicious ones.
many local transmission shops take shortcuts but charge as if a full rebuild was performed.
even on ebay (which I would not do..) the units run about $1100
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They will, I assume, honor their warranty. However I have to be the one to tow it there, 3 counties away. And of course it's not a priority as they've already been paid. This was a (supposedly) complete rebuild. Included a new wiring harness. Between this and the oil guzzling engine I REALLY regret buying this vehicle. I blame myself as I didn't do the proper research beforehand. ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

too bad you're not anywhere near s.florida - I would buy the car from you
don't give up yet, it's usually something very simple, in the case of the transmission, it can be something as simple as a harness that has shaken loose or very low fluid levels. sometimes simply resetting the computer (disconnect battery) does wonders. am assuming you have access to a code reader? autozone?
as for towing, your car insurance policy would normally cover a simple tow, under 100 miles
please post back on your status
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Insurance only covers towing if a claim is filed against the insurance. I climbed under the thing this morning and noticed a bolt missing off the transmission pan and it looked like fluid had been leaking from there, which explains a lot. I still had to spend $80 on the tow though. And when/if this gets fixed I'll still have to figure out why it won't hold an idle. All this while battling a bankruptcy. These are trying times indeed. ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

I feel for you, hang in there. Am hoping for your sake it's simply the low fluid that aggravated it and the shop will have to fix it. Once it's back in your hands, start systematically from the fuel pressure (filter), injectors, spark plugs, idle air control and throttle position sensors
those are on my top-10 list of things to always check first and are all cheap to replace
while there, also check the EGR valve condition (part cost: $230) and if a lot of carbon build-up, clean it out
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Many thanks. In the last few weeks I've changed the plugs, egr valve, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, & the pcv valve. They did a scan and said that one of the plugs isn't firing. Not sure why. That and an egr problem came up. They've cleared it out and we'll see if it returns. ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

ok, have a couple more items to suggest, very easy DIY
Spark Plug Harness, Idle Air Control sensor and Throttle Position Sensor
buy the better quality ones, from napa (IAC about $60)
replacing the set of coils may also be worth the trouble
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wrote:

Gemini, lemme get this right...2001 3.5 Trooper - roger on the oil consumption - welcome to the 3.5 oil guzzler's club. Looks like you've replaced most everything that would cause poor engine performance, except for that which would cause one spark plug not to fire, which is a vacuum leak. Or possibly that coil, but can you tell us how many miles are on this engine? My 98 has nearly 100k and is running strong, with the same coils, same timing belt, same everything it had on it when I bought it with 44K on it... but intake manifold gaskets are a known problem with these engines (in addition to lousy gas mileage and high oil consumption). And a leaking intake gasket could make the noise you hear on startup, loss of power, etc.
I agree with the previous poster on the tranny rebuild. What was wrong with the tranny that it needed a complete rebuild? A rebuild on the tranny should have included a new torque converter. If you've lost fluid out of the pan on a rebuild, I'd very much be questioning the competency of the shop that you had do the work. And didn't your troop come with a 10 year, 100000 mile warranty? I concur, you need to first check the reason for the leak, determine if the tranny is developing the proper pressure (which a good shop can measure for you) and tell you whether or not your TC is actually defective, but I suspect it's not. I do think you may have been taken for a ride in your tranny "rebuild". Let us know how many miles are on your truck, and the results of a vacuum gauge reading at idle when you start it (taken from a good vacuum source, like the pvc hose inlet to the intake manifold. Should be pretty high if you don't have a leak. HTH, GreenGas
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160K
I bought it with 120K on it.

I will try that, when I get it back next week of course. Turns out in addition to the leak, they put a new faulty TC on it, they say. ~GJ~
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did you get car back? did they fix it and any other discoveries on their part (or your findings)?
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It's ready, but I get it back in the morning. ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

how does it run and what issues were resolved?
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The transmission seems to work so far. Engine still idles rough but doesn't die. I was told that a misfire was showing up on a scan but took it to advance who checked it for free and the only thing coming up was an egr error-bad air flow. I've recently replaced that and the code keeps getting cleared out, so I dunno....? Idles bad though. ~GJ~
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Gemini Jackson wrote:

do you plan to replace the TPS and IAC ? (throttle position sensor, idle air control sensor) cost for both parts under $90 total and you need a simple screwdriver or small wrench, no special tools, about 2 minutes to replace
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Installed the TPS (70$), runs much better. Not perfectly smooth, but not bad for 200K miles. There's no IAC on my model. I may replace the fuel injectors eventually but it seems to be improved a great deal. Many thanks for the tips, MUCH appreciated! ~GJ~
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