Trooper Trailer Brakes

If you look back up under the fender on the driver's side back of the vehicle near the bumper (on the inside right below where the jack is stored) there is a rubber plug that pops out. Attached to the back of it is a plug that has connections for L/R turn signals, brake lights, running lights, and a ground. You can get an adaptor that plugs right and converts into a 4-pin standard trailer plug. If you're talking about electric brakes on the trailer, no, it is not pre-wired. You'll have to buy and hook up a brake controller unit. If you need a brake controller and don't need your ash tray and get the right model, I can tell you how I rigged mine in place of the ash tray in my 2002.

Wesley

Thanks. I would like to know how you mounted and wired your brake controller. The ashtray area looks like an ideal place for the controller. I didn't see how to remove it. Did you keep the brake wire inside your Trooper all the way to the rear? Did you have to drill a hole in the firewall for access to the battery?

I also thought about mounting the controller under a row of switches on the left side of the instrument panel. My truck has an access panel in this area where I could run the leads to the controller. My unit comes with a mount that allows removal when not in use and I could tuck the wires back into the access hole and replace the plate.

I bought the trailer hitch for my '95 from an Isuzu dealer several years ago. It came with a wiring harness for trailer lights that plugged into a connecter located under the truck, recessed into the inner body panel. It is just behind the left, rear wheel and was covered with a rubber plug.

Robert

I think I can help you with that one. The name of the controller I bought is Prodigy. According to the installation guide, the controller is activated by the stoplight switch. The controller senses deceleration and applies the brake proportionally.

Robert

Not too difficult to do... First thing in order for this to work is you will need to have the draw-tite "activator I or II" brake controller. Take a look at

I know Reese has one just like it with their name on it, may be others as well, but that's the one you will need to fit it exactly the way I did. Take a look at the pictures on draw-tite's web site to see a photo of it.

Biggest trick is getting it all apart. Start with the floor console where the shifter is - one screw on either side down low. Un-screw the ball on the H-L 4wd shifter and remove it. Pop out the 4 empty plugs to the right of the Power/winter mode buttons. That will allow you some leverage to pull up - there's a catch right at the back center of the console that takes a bit of tugging to get loose - pull straight up. You'll have to slide the whole console back to make room to get the the center dash piece out. Once you've got it moved back, I think there are 2 or 4 screws in the center console trim that you unscrew, then work it all loose. You'll have to unplug the cigarette lighter connections to get it out - there's a spot you push and it releases the connectors - just make sure you remember which goes where! Once you can see the back of it, there's a screw (or was it 2?) to remove the ash tray assembly from the trim piece. There's also a plug for a small lightbulb in the tray that you'll have to unplug. Once you have the whole thing out, you'll have to look at it closely, this part is a bit fuzzy now and w/o the part in front of me. There are some small screws on top (you'll need a smaller #1 philips bit) then work that plate loose - the rubber at the top front will flex and allow it to work out. Then there is a metal rod with a C-clamp or whatever you call it you have to work off in order to slide out the pin. Once that is out, carefully work and remove the sliding tray and spring part. You can stretch the outermost parts out to help free it (outside held together at this point by the piece of rubber at the front, which will stretch for you). Go ahead and remove the lightbulb assembly on the side by removing the 2 screws. Once it's all apart, put the metal plate back on the top. Next get your drill bits and drill out...take a look at the left side (from the perspective of it mounted in the vehicle) and you'll find a hole that you can get to line up for one of the mounting screws. (The brake assembly has a mount that looks like a letter E without the middle line in it that you mount and then mount the brake controller onto it with screws from the sides.) Line up the mounting bracket so that you can get one screw in thru this hole after you've mounted the bracket. On the other side where there is a small slit for the light bulb to shine thru, take a larger (3/8 maybe?) drill bit and make the hole bigger so you can put the other screw thru it. Drill holes in the upper metal plate and mount the bracket using small (#6 or so) (and will need to be short or cut short) bolts and nuts. Line up from where the wires come out and drill a few big holes side by side in order to get the wires out the back - will need to line up properly so the wires come straight out or you won't be able to get the controller back in far enough. Mount the controller in place, put it all back together and you've got the hard part done. :-) I was quite pleased with how this turned out in my 2002. Best I can tell, the

95's and up are all the same. On the 92-94 models you can just take out the ash tray and mount it in the open hole - that's what we did in our 94. This may or may not work as well for you if you have a different model brake controller...but if it fits, you can probably make it work.

For wiring - yes, I kept it inside all the way (tuck it under the plastic side pieces and trim along the drivers side - did the same for the 12v constant lead as well). and then made a hole in the rubber grommet in the back that you have the existing wiring harness coming out of. If you look a bit, there is a rubber grommet in the firewall that has other wires running thru it, carefully cut a slit in it and work the wires thru to get from the engine compartment to the brake controller. I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but I cheated and ran the ground to a good grounded screw on the inside of the firewall instead of running another 12-gauge wire to the battery.

Good luck! If you have any questions, just let me know and I'll try to help... happy towing! :-)

Wesley

wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@news.east.earthlink.net...

Basically...the el-cheapo models like I have take the stoplight switch (has

12v+ power when you touch the brake pedal) and run it to a lead on the brake controller. So when you hit the brakes it senses and and gradually applies voltage to the brakes. On the model I have there is one slider to adjust the maximum power output to the brakes and another to adjust how quickly power is applied (so they don't jerk all at once like the old type brake controllers did). I think some francier models (the prodigy included?) sense inertial forces and use that to control how much braking is applied. Just get an electronic brake controller and the manual should explain it all pretty well for you...

Wesley

Thank you for the detailed instructions, Wesley. From your description, I think they apply to the '95 as well as the '02.

Robert