What Oil should I use???

Just wondering if it matters what oil to use on my 99 Trooper. I am used to getting the cheapest oil on my previous car (coupe), but I heard that I should probably use "fancy - expensive" oil. Any suggestions from Isuzu
fanatics would be very helpful. Thanks!
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I use Valveolean (?) 5w30 in my 01 trooper. Works good for me.
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something like SH, SI or SJ, (higher second letter is better) 10w-30 or 5w-30. If the owners manual allows "synthetic" oils, then it will probably recommend specific weights to use. The only time it makes sense to switch to expensive oils is under "severe service" conditions, usually extreme hot or cold, someplace like Yuma Arizona or northern Canada.
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You don't need anything fancy or expensive. Not sure I'd use some unknown generic brand but any reputable oil should be fine. Some say to use synthetics which may improve the life of the engine. I've used conventional oil and change it very 3,000 miles. Use of more expensive oils is a personal thing and so opinions vary.
marko wrote:

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wrote:

Two myths here: first, synthetic "fancy-expensive" oils do not cost any more than the cheap stuff on any auto parts or X-mart shelf. Second, someone else mentioned checking the owners manual concerning use of synthetics. It's rare for an owners manual to even comment on synthetics vs. petroleum (or parasynthetics, which are blends of the two). All you need to be concerned with in that regard is whether it has the latest API service rating as a previous response mentioned - not whether it's synthetic or petroleum based.
As for cost, it simply isn't any more expensive to use a good synthetic (and there are varying degrees of that stuff, too). I've been using a particular brand (Amsoil - which I do not sell) since 1978, and don't change my oil MORE than every 25,000 miles (the filter does get changed, and I use a depth-type filter, not a paper element filter such as is usually found on auto parts store or "X"-Mart shelves. When you don't change your oil for a year or more at a time, vs. every 3000 miles, you're bringing the cost of overall lubrication down to a virtually equal level - you just pay more for the "expensive" synthetic up front, but then keep right on using it through what would have been several more oil changes if you'd used petroleum. I used to use oil sampling to keep myself comfortable that everything was "OK" inside my engines with that extended drain interval, but long ago (like almost 20 years ago) quit bothering. At least with Amsoil, the company itself actually warrants the oil for extended drain (check their literature for details - I am not representing the company, just happen to be lifetime-sold on it).
At about 100,000, my Isuzu Hombre needed a new timing chain and some expensive clutch work. Before I had the work done, I had my mechanic check out the engine fundamentals to make sure it was really worth it. The compression test came back within 5 pounds of each other for all four cylindars, and was virtually within original specs. I was frankly not surprised at all. And I still use almost no oil between those 25,000 mile intervals (I'm perhaps down to about a quart low when I finally do change).
In my roughly 25 years of using the stuff, I am entirely convinced I couldn't be doing anything better for my vehicles. I haven't put a quart of petroleum oil in any of my vehicles in that time, and don't plan to again. Currently I'm now using 0W-30, after having used 5W30 since it came out. Before that, I was using the standard 10W-40. Don't let the 0W scare you - at least with Amsoil (I don't know if anyone else sells that viscosity only because I don't know what else is out there anymore).
The superior lubrication and consequently lower operating temperatures extend the life of engines, so for someone like me who tends to keep a vehicle until it's just about ready for the junk yard, the cost savings end up being enormous with the "fancy-expensive" synthetic I use. And research backs that up.
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snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net wrote:

Thats where many will disagree. Synthetics do last longer and don't break down as easy. Thats why people extend the change intervals. But synthetics do not get rid of combustion byproducts that end up in the oil nor do they get rid of dirt. I change my oil every 3-5K no matter what oil I use. If the oil comes out black rather than amber, then I waited too long. Even if you do extend the change interval, you still must change the filter earlier. Cars are expensive and trying to save a few $'s on oil just doesn't make sense. Use the oil you prefer and change it often.
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Don't know, I just had an oil analysis performed on my Audi A4 (Castrol Syntec 0W30 - Made in Germany). The oil had 6970 miles on it and according to the analysis, the oil can definitely go to 10000 miles without any problems.
If you are changing synthetic at 3000 miles, you are most certainly draining out oil that is still good.
Use an oil like Mobil 1 5W40 (rebadged Delvac 1) and you can easily goto at least 7500 miles if not 10000 miles.
For some light reading (used oil analysis, etc)... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
- -- Curtis Newton snipped-for-privacy@remove-this.akaMail.com http://surf.to/cnewton ICQ: 4899169 Anti-Spam filter in place-- <delete remove-this. to respond to email>
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Something I've learned from reading many other's experiences. when extending drain intervals, especially to the 25k region: you should periodicaly test oil. Many variables... environmental, engine wear, fuel(s) being used, etc... affect how fast the oil breaks down, build up of harmful byproducts and engine wear particles as well as depletion of essential additives.
Combine the expense and bother of periodic testing with the expense and bother of filter changing and I don't see much of an advantage over 3k oil/filter changes with dino.
Even so the other advantages of synthetics... the better cold flow and high temp performance, wear resistance, etc. They really are superior oils, especially in severe service applications. I just don't see a cost advantage by trying to extend drain intervals if done properly.
BuddyWh
On Fri, 14 May 2004 22:21:04 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net wrote:

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You should really consider using the lighter weight Mobil 1 like 5w30. I'm not sure if your car is, but many Isuzus with the 3.2 are suceptible to the valve train noise that is really annoying once you get it. My 95.5 Rodeo got it and I followed the TSB using 0w30 Mobil 1 and it instantly cured my problem. Since then I have used Mobil 1 5w30 vs regular 10w30 I used before. My engine is quieter than ever and I usually go about 5,000 between oil changes which helps justify the extra cost. Sythetics keep the engine cleaner, and sludge is what causes this valve ticking in some Isuzu engines due to narrow oil passages for the valve train.
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