Does anybody know of a way to test these before removing them from the car? If so, can you post me the answer,alternatively,can someone tell me the procedure for doing so? Thanks Phil
- posted
19 years ago
Does anybody know of a way to test these before removing them from the car? If so, can you post me the answer,alternatively,can someone tell me the procedure for doing so? Thanks Phil
Phil, I assume you mean the blower motors for the heater? What exactly is it you want to test? You have two blower motors, one in either foot well of the car. Simply pull the fuse out of the fuse panel on the right side, turn the power on to the ignition and test to see if the left blower is working and if it has three speeds. Put the fuse back in and do exactly the same thing by pulling the left fuse. If both blowers are working then you do not have a problem with the blowers. If the blowers are working on HIGH only (or defrost) then the resistor or the diode is blown on that particular blower. You can either buy a new blower assembly or search the archives at
Webserve.
Thanks for the info, unfortunately, BOTH blower motors are non operational and when I try to turn them on they blow BOTH fuses in fuse blocks 1 & 2. Heat gets into the car more through 'osmosis' than by design! I think I will have to 'delve' into the underdash area and pull the motors,or??? More help appreciated! I am trying to make this wonderful car my everyday driver. I am lucky in so much as I have several 'parts cars' in my yard and so I can canibalise what I need from these donor vehicles. My next job is to try and source the reason for my intermitent brake assist,and the constant warnings on the vcm of 'low brake pressure' & "abs failure'. I have been lucky with JAGUAR as they agreed to perform a long overdue recall on the brake system, recall D348 which addressed the switches from the back of the brake thingy near the green reservoir, that shows red all the time! I am a mechanical Luddite and all help is greatly appreciated! Thanks again, Phil
Mine (1990) were not blowing fuses, but they weren't blowing air either - just plain did not turn. Drained a few pints of water out of the system - bottom of the fan housings.
I have the driver's side - left - one out now and have fixed it and have not yet gotten it back in - waiting for warmer weather.
The electronic controls seemed okay - not corroded away - so I pulled the fan motor out and checked the brushes. They looked okay too, but there was a certain amount of guckiness around the brushes and the armature, so I cleaned that all up - ran a needle along the grooves and polished it with a very fine emery cloth, ran it up a few times with the battery in the house, works fine.
As I said, I haven't reinstalled it, but I went out to the car and plugged in the electric connections and it works fine on all speeds. I'll get it back in then pull the other one. Wish I had a heated garage.
- Tom
Happy Trails To You
Phil, You have now entered into the repair zone!! In order to determine what is going on, you will have to do some pretty intense work on the car. It can be done as long as you work patiently and keep track of how things came apart. My FIRST suggestion to you is that you go to your local auto parts store and purchase a Haynes manual for the 1988-1994 XJ40. The information and pictures are most helpful. Then I suggest you print out and read the XJ40 online book at
Webserve
"Phil Morgan" wrote in message news:4Z6Wd.49934$ snipped-for-privacy@news20.bellglobal.com...
One common cause of the "ABS light on all the time" is a faulty ABS relay module in the trunk. Pull it out and pop the plastic cover off. Carefully inspect the solder joints where the mechanical relay is soldered to the circuit board and re-solder them if they look fractured. Bad self leveling shocks really shake things around back there, but in my opinion, heavy relays in shock/vibration environments should not rely solely on solder joints for attachment.
-jk
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