Handbrake

Did the Mark 2 handbreak ever work and, if so, what is the secret for getting them to work again? I've dimantled, cleaned, lubricated and fitted new pads to mine. I've even shortened the operating cables. It works, sort of, about 4 times then is useless. On the flat I can push the car with the handbrake on. Mine are the self adjusting type.

Graham

Reply to
Graham L
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Graham, I've been waiting to see if someone came up with any suggestions but it would appear that most on this newsgroup have more modern vehicles with more modern problems, such as door locks. The Feb. 1960 Mark 2 road test said that the handbrake would not hold on a 1 in 3 hill, while the August 1961 test said that it would hold well on a 1 in 4 hill. I can only say that my 1969 Daimler (V8 engine in a Mark 2 bodyshell) holds well on the handbrake, and the roadtest for these cars said that it was one of the few pad handbrakes which DID work. Since handbrakes are intended for use when stationary, and should therefor theoretically never wear out, this would also mean that they would never naturally bed in. I would suggest that you drive and occassionally pull the hand brake on while in motion - not for too long. Repeat a few times and see whether the brake improves as used as it should be. Also try to determine what is different/changes/goes-out-of-adjustment from the first four applications and thereafter.

Peter C.

Reply to
cornelp

Graham, There are many of us on the server with older Models, but I, for one, usually don't respond unless I feel I have a qualified answer and/or opinion. Whilst I have torn apart my parking calipers on the 420, I am not happy with the repair and the "self-adjustment" feature. Eventually, I will have to get back under the car and do a re-assessment. My 420, unlike your Mark II, has the calipers right up against the differential so working on these items is one of the worst chores. My S-Type parking brake works magnificently, but it is a different situation. Since my S-Type came from the factory with no "Park" position on the automatic transmission, the hand brake HAS to hold. It does extremely well so I know these systems will work if set-up correctly. One of these days I will get into that one as well to see what it is doing and why. The self-adjusting feature on these calipers has always been a weak point. I can e-mail you a drawing from my 420 manual showing the break-down if you like, but I am not certain it is the same as your Mark. You might search the archives at

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and see if there are any Mark II pointers.

Cheers webserve

Reply to
webserve

Thanks for the response. Armed with the knowledge that it is possible for them to work, I will just have to really pull the sods apart and find their problem. I have to get the back axle out soon to sort out some differential problems do that might be the time. As you say, at least I haven't the inboard disc arrangement to complicate things. What I was hoping for was some suggestion of upgrading the system. The archive search sound like a good idea.

Graham

Reply to
Graham L

Graham, I had a look at my Daimler workshop manual yesterday to see what it had to say about the handbrake, and as soon as I saw the picture I recalled that when I had the garage replace my rear brake cylinders (I hate bleeding bleeding brakes!) as the brakes were seized on the fellow said, "You know how to set the handbrake pads up, don't you?" He showed me as he did them - and I prompty forgot what he had said! So today I went back to the garage for a futher explanation and took notes. He has owned a 3.4 Mark 2 Jag for a number of years so knows a few 'tricks of the trade'.

So ....

  1. Remove both rear road wheels.
  2. Disconnect the handbrake cable by withdrawing the clevis pin
  3. On one side remove the split pin from the threaded adjustment bolt.

  1. With a screwdiver screw the adjustment bolt in until the handbrake pads firmly grip the brake disk. (Firm = not excessively tight.)

  1. Repeat 2 & 3 for the other side.
  2. Adjust the handbrake cable until the clevis pin cleanly rejoins the cable, and refit the clevis pin.
  3. On each side back off the adjustment bolt half a turn at a time until the brake disk is just free.
  4. Return the split pins to the adjusment bolts.
  5. Refit road wheels.

For owners of later Jags who might have been following this item - The proceedure is the same for the Jaguar XJs, except that having inboard brake disks the job is less fun!

Peter C.

Reply to
cornelp

In message , snipped-for-privacy@xtra.co.nz writes

I had an early "E" type which, looking at the Mk 2 book, seems to have the same callipers although they were inboard. On the "E" I screwed the adjustment bolt so that the disk was gripped tight with .004" feelers between the disk and the pads, then put the clevis pin in by adjusting the cable.

I had the back subframe off for other reasons when I did mine on the "E", the XJS and an XJ6. You only need to do it once provided that you don't forget and drive off with the handbrake on.

Reply to
David Toft

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