1. Home
  2. Jaguar Autos
  3. Starting an XKE after years of sitting

Starting an XKE after years of sitting

We're going to try and get our 64 XKE 3.8 OTS running after sitting for a number of years. Car hasn't been on the road since about 1999, and it still ran up until about two years ago. Up until around 2002 it would run fine, then slowly over the next couple years it would start but die right away if you took your foot off the gas pedal, it also started making an ugly noise from the top of the engine like the lifters weren't getting enough lubrication even though the oil pressure was normal on the gauge. The last time we tried to start it was probably two summers ago.

Obviously I think the problem was with bad fuel and the entire fuel system now has probably been gummed up. We're going to start cleaning that out at the fuel filter, replace the filter, replace the fuel lines that lead to the carbs, take the carbs apart and clean them, drain the fuel tank and replace with fresh gas. Anything else I'm missing?

Also, for a car that has been sitting for roughly the last seven or eight years, what else should we be doing in preparation to get it running again? I've read on ferrarichat.com that a lot of people suggest putting a little marvel mystery oil down each cylinder to help with lubrication and alleviate any rust or corrosion.

Thanks for any more tips and suggestions that can be offered. Hopefully we can get in running without having to turn it over to professional help.

.
Reply to
Yaker
Loading thread data ...

The increasingly rough running and upper engine noise in an unused engine are very typical of sticking valves. A compression check would likely show low compression on some cylinders. I would remove the valve cover and squirt some type of penetrating oil on each valve stem. Also squirt a little into each spark plug hole. Fill the crankcase and new filter with fresh oil with a dose of valve/lifter solvent. Turn the engine over with the plugs out to distribute the oil. Another compression check would let you know if the situation has improved.

After cleaning the fuel system (it should not be necessary to replace the lines) the car should start with a lot of blue smoke out the exhaust. Do not rev the motor any more than necessary to keep it running or you may cause damage due to a stuck open valve hitting a piston.. After a bit of running, it should steady out on all cylinders. You can squirt some light oil into the intake while running to help lubricate the valve stems. You may experience some spark plug fouling during this time. If so, just clean them as necessary until you get it firing good on all cylinders. Avoid the urge to rev it real fast to "clear it out". Free working valves, clean spark plugs, and a good fuel supply will do the job.

Don Young

Reply to
Don Young

Points:

-- You might find the clutch is stuck. (Try it by pushing the car in second gear, then see if the clutch disengages. Be brutal!)

-- It'll be worth putting a pressure bleeder on the brakes (hire one - quite cheap) and changing all the brake fluid by flushing it through.

--You'll probably find the t(i)yres have got flat spots at the bottom, so it's worth putting an extra few pounds in them until the lumpiness goes away. (Unless they've gone all hard and cracked, in which case you need new ones).

(If you can't get it running, put it on a ferry and I'll give you ten dollars for it!)

Remember that every part that falls off it is of finest English manufacture........

David

Reply to
David Wilson

Many times noise from the top end or front of Jag 3.8L or 4.2L is not the tappets or the valve , but a loose upper or lower timing chain. This will eventually jump time and you will have a much more expensive problem with bent valves or a holed piston. With the carbs right, a good starter, good ignition etc. this motor will start in half a revolution. That said valves can stick on rare occasions, but putting oil on the valve stems on this engine is impossble without removing the cams and tappets. Try cranking the engine over with the plugs out after squirting a small amount of light oil in each cylinder. This will also fill the head with oil and lube the tappets. Next put in the plugs and try cranking. Note if the cranking note is even, ie. the speed drop you hear as each cylinder hits compression should sound about the same. If not stop trying to start it, and find out why one or more cylinders is low on compression. If the cranking note is even, make sure you have good spark and fuel to the carbs. Many times on old jags with stock ignition the spark may be a little to weak to fire if the mixture is a bit off, You can help it out by pulling the plugs boots partly off the plugs until the engine is idling. Pulling the boots partly off creates a series gap which can actually help the plugs fire in a borderline situation.

Reply to
oldjag

Check to see if the internals of the carburetors are free to move or not. The "pistons" (or whatever you call them) were stuck on mine. You can check by removing the air intake shroud and inserting a finger into the carb throat. Push the piston upwards - it should move freely, with some resistance (from the diaphragm & spring). T

The car would start, but would often die, and could not be revved. I took the carbs apart and cleaned the parts with fresh gasoline, then lubed them with light oil and put them back together (didn't replace anything). It ran fine thereafter.

BTW - mine is a '70 with two Zenith Stromberg carbs.

Also make sure that you have fuel flow through the filter - disconnect the fuel line downstream of the filter (at the tee) and turn on the ignition. The electric pump should produce a healthy flow. It's a good idea to put the hose in a jar or can - or you are likely to get gas all over the place.

David Johnson

Reply to
Dave

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.