XJ40 1988 crankshaft position sensor

Just completed replacement of this, with the kind on-line help of webserve.

In a nutshell, this component can apparently be responsible for sudden cutting out of the engine. The component can't be tested by measuring resistance or anything - just has to be replaced if suspected.

To replace, remove radiator top hose (when car is cold, and pressure cap released). Inboard removed easier, swing up hose if outboard cannot be removed easily. Do *not* try to remove next hose down as this is for the hydraulic system. Sensor is external to the crakcase, to the right of centre, and is secured with a single allen key (which may be tight). The wire should have been secured to a stand-off bracket with a cable tie, and is terminated in an easy pull-off connector, once you have snipped the cable tie round that. Replacement is a simple reversal of all the above. After re-securing the radiator hose worm clips, refill the header tank, but leave it open until running the engine for a moment removes the rest of the air in the system and allows you to fill up again.

Allow a couple of hours. The actual replacement of the sensor takes 5 minutes, but the other parts to the job, and snags, can extend the time somewhat..

Cheers all Alan

Reply to
alan4spamoffd
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Just been thinking some more about this . It must be nonsense to say it

*can't* be tested. OK so it's not a temperature sensitive resistor or anyth> Just completed replacement of this, with the kind on-line help of > webserve. >
Reply to
alan4spamoffd

Actually it can be tested but most people lack the tools to do so. The sensor consists of a permanent magnet, yoke, and coil. As a metal tooth passes close to the sensor AC voltage is produced (Like a generator) briefly which the controllers see as an off/on pulse. The voltage is created naturally an no external power is needed.

So here we have no moving parts why do the sensors fail? Well most fail because the housing they are inside of crack or leak and the coil or wires corrode. Most truly are ok but its the wires that usually are to blame for intermittent operation. I used to tear pick ups open and find cracked solder joints or coil shorting.

Its safer to replace than to repair...but if you are ever stranded in the middle of hell you might be able to carefully open the sensor and "ghetto" repair it until you can get to a safe place.

To test this device you will need a scope as a volt meter will be too slow to respond. Typical sensor will create an AC signal of 5V variance or more (In a sine wave thats 2.5V on each side of the cycle.) So yes you can test it but with the use of a scope.

HTH, Blake

Reply to
Blake Dodson

I cant sleep anymore because of this post, therefore I am adding this reply to correct for my lazy erring ways...

I said: "AC voltage is produced (Like a generator) briefly which the controllers see as an off/on pulse." This is absolutely incorrect! A pulse is more or less a rise, plateau, and fall. What the computer is realy looking at is frequency generated by all those little teeth passing by the sensor; higher rpms = higher freqency.

There. Now I can sleep.

B.D.

Reply to
Blake Dodson

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