I've just repurchased a jaguar XJ40 3.6L 1988 that I sold privately when temporarily ill, and regretted doing ever since. I see the (temporary) new owner was unable to solve a couple of problems I had. So, now I've got the car back, over to the experts for some ideas!
Quiescent current.
With everything off, the current drain remains at 50 mA. This is enough to flatten the battery unless the car is used at least once a week. Any ideas?
Radio cassette
To avoid this battery flattening, I disconnect the battery from time to time. This of course causes the sceurity code to activate and locks out the radio! I had the codes for the radio written on a scrap of paper - which I've now lost! I remember the actual codes (frequencies AM and FM) by heart, but not the sequence of kestrokes surrounding them. I imagine all radios have the same sequence but just different actual codes. So will some kind person tell me the sequence and I'll plug my own codes in.
Puddle lamp
The rear right puddle lamp (on the door) does not work. The festoon bulb shows continuity and the clips show a voltage of 12 + volts, yet still the light doesn't light up.
I wonder if this could be due to the fault computer, and also explain why I get a continuous flashing bulb failure warning, although all the exterior lamps appear OK, and also maybe explain the continuous current drain.
Cutting out
Finally (for now!), very occasionally (say three times in as many years) the car cuts out completely. This can be alarming if in a stream of traffic on a freeway. Anyone else experienced this?
Your thoughts about any of these would be most welcome, posted on the group best, or maybe, removing the obvious, in the mailbox.
Alan, Congratulations on the re-purchase of the XJ40. Great car!! Since you are aware of the amount of the drain on the system, you need to isolate which circuit it is on. Once you have done that -- it is pretty simple to determine which appliance is causing the drain. Your radio must not be a standard for '88 -- at least not in the US. My original '88 Radio had no codes by which to activate it once the power was off. It is a simple matter of re-setting the stations that I frequently listen too. I do know that on later models, the security codes for the radios were placed on a label on the inside of the bonnet. That way they were always available. If worse comes to worse, you can contact Jaguar and they can get you the codes -- providing it is the radio that came with the car!! To understand this properly on the puddle lamp -- you are saying that the bulb shows continuity and the sockets the bulb clips into show 12 volts but when you put the bulb into the clips it does not work?? Try swapping bulbs with one that you knows works. This is not a matter of the computer if you are getting 12 volts to the clip. The bulb warning light can be any number of problems. The puddle lamp is not the cause since it is on a totally different circuit and does not send a bulb out warning to the dash. The first thing you need to do is check all the bulbs. This means directional as well as the brake lights (with your foot on the pedal) to make sure they are not the cause as well as high beam. Usually on the directional, the warning comes on when you activate them -- but not always. I suggest you check to make sure all is working as it should. If you still get the warning than you need to go around the car with a wire plumbing brush and clean all the sockets. Clean the base of the bulbs as well. If that doesn't work then you need to re-solder the Bulb Failure modules-starting in the boot. These cars are notorious for bad solder joints and will cause warning all the time. I have had the car go dead in the middle of traffic -- but not over a 3 year period of time. Mine lasted about 3 weeks. I changed out the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the front of the engine and I have never had a problem since. These items, again, are a common and notorious source of anguish and if you haven't changed yours out -- you will!!
Webserve '88 XJ40 with 205,000 miles (330000 km)
wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@tpg.com.au...
I thought I had replied but it has disappeared. Briefly to repeat, have found my old UK notes and apparently 40 mA is normal (as against 10 mA on my previous series III) - so I'll just have to drive it more often. Radio was sold as a Jaguar radio prefitted in Australia so perhaps someone local will help. Yes, puddle light as described but it isn't the bulb. If the computer definitely not involved, must be high resistance joint. Voltmeter (high impedance - no load) reads 12 v + OK but on putting on load (bulb) the voltage must drop. Bulb warning message - will now check all solder joints. Sensor. Where is this, is it easy to fix? etc....
As for the cutting out, I had a problem with my 92 Sovereign that was similar. Turned out to be the connector on the fuel pump harness in the trunk. I just cut out the connector, replaced it with crimped splice connectors, and haven't gotten stuck in 2 years (knock on wood). Diagnosis of this problem involved 'jiggling' the harness around in the trunk until the fuel pump cut out.
Light bulb getting 12+, yet bulb not lighting? Did you measure continuity with the bulb removed from the clips or in situ? Either way, sounds like a bad bulb, maybe shorted internally.
A couple of thoughts. Perhaps your battery is getting a bit old. I let my '88 sit for the past
3 weeks and it started right up with no hesitation. The radios sold as original equipment in OZ are different than the ones sold in the US -- I believe. Ours came standard with Citizen's Band Radio channel 19 built right in. '88 was the height of the CB radio trucker craze in the US. The CPS sensor is in the front of the engine and is mounted with a 5mm Allen screw. It sits above the Crankshaft pulley atop a toothed gear. You should be able to find the connector by the wing and then trace the wire to the sensor. It is just below the Power Assist pump on the front of the engine. Trace the hose from the middle of the Green reservoir to the engine and then go down. It reads the spinning of the engine and sends a signal to the computer to tell the plugs when to fire. You CAN NOT determine if these sensors are good or not by taking electrical readings or resistance readings. I keep a spare in the boot at all times -- just in case. If worse comes to worse on the Bulb warning, you can make it go away by simply snipping the pink/slate wire to the Bulb Warning Module. This is the sensor and snipping it will make the computer warning system think all is OK. Re-soldering did the trick on mine, however. What part of OZ are you in? Webserve
Thanks for this *very* useful > A couple of thoughts.
Yes, I originally used it about once a week for a long run. No problem. But when I was ill I did not move the car for months. That's probably the reason. I've found my old notes that showed that I had researched this before (I had forgotten) and the UK advised me that 40 mA is normal for the model. It was 120 mA but I found that was due to an aftermarket alarm, which I promptly removed. An interesting aside - a problem with digital multimeters. When I connected a digital ammeter in line with the battery (not attempting to start the car, mind you! other readers DO NOT TRY THIS) the readings were very erratic - in fact unreadable. When I put in an AVO model 8 analogue meter, I could clearly see the problem. The quiescent current was about 40 mA, as I've said, but superimposed on that was the pulsing of the clock (a few microamps). Could clearly see it with the analogue meter needle movement. By the way, the previous owner (before my *first* purchase ) suffered from flat batteries, but with the aid of a meter I soon found that the boot light was not going out when the boot was closed. Fixed that by bending a bracket slightly, I think. (Or was that on my previous series III "poverty pack" - ie no cruise control or sun roof and pepperpot wheels?).
No takers in the group for this problem? All I want is the sequence of keystrokes - I've got the codes. Is there another XJ40 newsgroup?
*Very useful indeed* I'll buy one and keep it as a spare at least. Is replacing it fairly straightforward? Another poster has also suggested a cause of this cutting out problem, and I'll probably experiment with this.
Rather not do that as I think the actual warning function is very useful for safety (the main reason why I want to get rid of the false warning). I have a very vivid memory of being in a 420 I had (another beautiful car) and signaling to turn right on a busy highway. The lady behind me completely ignored my signal and tried to crowd me out. At last, with a defiant blink, I pulled across, only to be greeted with a raucous blast of her horn. I discovered afterwards that my right blinker bulb had blown! She was never getting the signal! Another day, my son and a friend were leaving the house and happened to briefly slow down after setting off, only there was no lighting of brake lamps. Concerned for their safety I frantically signalled in their mirror for them to stop. We found *both* brake lights had blown!
I'll try that.
I'm just north of Sydney, in the area known as the Northern Beaches. About to move up to Port Stephens, just north of Newcastle. I came from the Surrey in the UK about 25 years ago.
I really shouldn't risk owning a Jag now - being an impecunious pensioner (all contributions gratefuly received ). I fact I'm hanging out for Tuesday. I just repurchased this Jag, as I've explained, and have badgered the (short time) owner as to why on earth he wants to sell (there's always a reason). He says the only thing wrong is the climate control (probably electric and I'll try to fix, or will leave windows open and put up with it!) but I'm hoping he's not aware of some other problem which he's hiding from me. By Tuesday the cheque will have cleared so he has no motive to conceal anything then. Then I'll ask him again . Hoping I don't get really bad news then! Will duly report later...
I agree that would normally be indicated, and I'll try the bulb with a couple of fly leads. If it's OK then we must have a high resistance (dry soldered jojnt) and the loaf of the lamp causes a voltage drop, wheras a voltmeter present salmost no load and there is therefore no real drop across the high resistance
Thanks. Every Jag owner needs that! But, still worth owning one I think. Special feeling driving one - similar (but better) than a Mk II or 420. Nearly as good as driving a Rolls. Better than an Aston Martin. As good as a Jensen Interceptor. Much better than an MG TD. Very much better than an Austin 7
1932! (if only I'd kept all the cars I've owned - except the Rolls - that was hired!)
First things first, I suppose, but the next small problem is the washer bottle leaking, also quickly generating a fault lamp. Any experience with this one? I'm sure I replaced it before but the problem is back and may be a fault with eg the seal? All I remember is, the bottle comes in two parts.
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