130k & 258 kaput :(

Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2 qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2. On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles. Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m.. I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow? Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258

Reply to
Daniel Paisley
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Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and valves can collide.

You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.

Reply to
J Strickland

The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.

That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.

Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Daniel Paisley wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

J Strickland did pass the time by typing:

The 258 is a non-interference motor.

Reply to
DougW

Daniel Paisley did pass the time by typing:

A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out. And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause problems.

Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad. (crank, not start, pull the coil feed)

Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too. Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.

A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.

Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.

OEM:

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ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30 Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.

ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge) Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.

Reply to
DougW

snipped-for-privacy@cox.net wrote: =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Will not restart is a broken piston. Buy a used engine from a wreck is the least expensive way to go. ____________________________________________=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0

Thanks Bill, but I don't think I'm gonna buy anything used at this point. I'm thinkin' V8 in the future. I think I am gonna tear it down just to see what it is. I am doing this with hopes of learning something. I doubt this motor will ever be put back together, but I just have to get in there to see what happened :)

Reply to
Daniel Paisley

J=A0Strickland wrote: It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and valves can collide. You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off. _____________________________________________ Thanks Jeff. I was unaware that there were 'interference motors' and 'non-interference motors'. As I stated to Bill, I'm gonna tear it down and hopefully learn something :)

Reply to
Daniel Paisley

The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened. That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least. Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing. _________________________________________ Thanks Mike. I was thinking bearing also, but was open to suggestions :) The Jeep was given to me by my brother with 93k on the motor. Instead of me selling it, he and I decided we are going to 'build' it. I am however, gonna see just what decided to go. Who knows, maybe some day I'll be able to give advice ;)

Reply to
Daniel Paisley

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.

I disagree, I think you are better off to build up your own engine yourself or get a complete running factory built engine.

$800 is a ridiculous core charge for as old and common an engine as the 4.0/4.2 Jeep AMC six. A non-running vehicle with a running or clearly intact engine can be bought for $100 easily.

Fuck Chevy. The smallblock Chevy is the most overrated piece of shit engine there is. Actually it's not particularly bad, but unless your hobby is buying aftermarket or hot rod parts and changing them out frequently just for kicks, it has no particular virtue either. And I have about as much respect for Advance or Novak as I do for people who shit on the sidewalk and call it art.

If you have to have a V8-and I think 8 is not a great number of cylinders, 6 or 12 make more sense-I'd look at a Northstar if you want electronic.

Reply to
Bret Ludwig

It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and valves can collide. You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off. _____________________________________________ Thanks Jeff. I was unaware that there were 'interference motors' and 'non-interference motors'. As I stated to Bill, I'm gonna tear it down and hopefully learn something :)

Tear it down in a controlled demolition because the problem can be an easy one that will not demand a complete tear down.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

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