1inch body lift "self-built pucks"

i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum, what grade bolts would be needed, , what diam would the Pucks have to be?

and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?

ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own, , i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in there notes section says that it increses vibration,

cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a

1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make one of these on my mill, , , will i have vibration trouble doing this?

thanks for the help, johnp

Reply to
scopenutt
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forgot to mention its a 90 wrangler, w/2.5l mousecage, johnp

Reply to
scopenutt

I do not think aluminum 'pucks' are a good idea at all.

The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92 Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on the hub.

This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come in contact with it.

On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.

My $0.02,

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

i could also do them in steel

johnp

Reply to
scopenutt

The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood sporting goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.

Reply to
jeff

Other than adding weight, I don't see why not. Brass would be easier to work, but expensive.

You still will/should have the rubber mounts in there but you lose the shock absorber effect with body lifts usually so the ride will be harsher.

The stock mount is two rubber doughnuts sandwiching the frame mount with a steel tube down the middle. The bolt and washers come up tight on the steel tube so it can only compress the rubber so much and then the two rubbers act as a shock or vibration damper in both the up and down directions.

If I was going to make my own, I think I would make them so they act like stock ones. I think I would drill the puck the right size to allow a tube to slide through it so when I used the 1" longer bolt and 1" longer tube, the rubber sandwich would still be there.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

That is so wrong in so many ways....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

jeff wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Hockey pucks degrade and break apart after repeated use, any flexing that may occur will cause the pucks to breakdown. As a short term lift they might work ok, but if your ever in an accident and they put your car on a hoist to "inspect" it and see regular hockey pucks you will have questions to answer. Mike R knows all about having his J**P inspected after an accident.

Snow...

Reply to
Snow

In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout I think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.

-Brian

: > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood sporting : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them. : >

: > > johnp : > >

Reply to
Cherokee-LTD

Maybe it's just me, but aren't those pucks made from rubber for a reason?

The puck you make must be the same diameter as the factory pucks. I am not sure, but I don't think they are all the same size.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Reply to
RoyJ

Roy, did you realize that the OE factory body mounts are rubber?

Jerry

RoyJ wrote:

Reply to
Jerry Bransford

P.S.

As are the OE engine mounts and the tranny mount made from rubber. As are just about all such mounts made by all automotive manufacturers. Claiming rubber mounts "deteriorate fairly rapidly" is just plain bogus.

Jerry

Jerry Bransford wrote:

Reply to
Jerry Bransford

Reply to
RoyJ

I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5 bolts.

Approx 2"

Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it was reinstalled.

There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.

Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.

The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less expensive to just buy one.

I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.

I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.

Reply to
SoK66

hearhear! stupid all around.... can't believe the lockout...

Reply to
Paw

My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost twenty years, they still look they same. I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage or bends to the mounts.

Reply to
Jeff White

Again "pucks" made out of car tire rubber are somewhat oil resistant and stand up to wear pretty well, where Hockey Pucks are not. completely different compounds..

Snow...

Reply to
Snow

Sure, not all rubber's made the same. The stuff in tires is undoubtedly designed toward being exposed to the harsh elements of an automobile. Certainly more than a hockey puck.

There's always plenty of "my hack job never caused me any trouble" stories. Unfornutately there's also plenty of "my insurance was voided because of some stupid hack" stories. It's also not a matter of whether the hack survived but whether the hack transferred damage to other places instead of absorbing it. Better to have a cheap rubber bushing fail than to have a welded up hack force damage onto other parts of the vehicle. It's probably not an issue for the job you've done but it's advice worth considering when thinking about cobbling up something on a vehicle that might put you or others at risk of not only monetary but loss of life as well.

-Bill Kearney

Reply to
wkearney99

I did exactly what you are talking about except I used UHMWPE. I made the pucks 1.25 thick and the diameter was 2.25 for all 11 pucks... it's been on my Jeep for over a year and it's working flawlessly. The 1" alum block you're thinking of is made my JKS (and others possibly). The block itself is easy as pie to make, but what you pay for imo is the fasteners... JKS sends you a pin that goes through the block and is threaded on the inside... n.

Reply to
Nathan Otis

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