2004 WJ 4.0 trans/ATF level questions

On my recently purchased WJ (4.0/42re/factory trailer tow) I noticed that the owners manual says check the ATF level in Park, while the dipstick says Neutral. In Park it appears to be 1-1.5 pints overfilled, in Neutral about a pint under. I'm tempted to split the difference and leave it alone, but I'm curious what the FSM says if someone has one. The FSM for my old ZJ says Neutral because the converter and cooler are bypassed in Park(also the reason for slow engagement after sitting for

3-5 days)and that's how I always did it. The owners manual for the WJ mentions the 5 second delay, so it doesn't sound like it should be any different.

The AC condenser/trans cooler assembly was taken out and repaired at some point and it takes a really long time to get the fluid hot. There is no in-radiator cooler, so maybe that's to be expected, but I'm wondering if I have a malfunctioning cooler bypass somewhere???

The first time the torque convertor locks up is usually harsh and it crunches shifting into reverse, otherwise it shifts fine.

Reply to
Al J
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Also - the WJJeeps web site says Neutral. Did that come from the FSM or is it for earlier model WJs???

Reply to
Al J

Procedure One and Two from my '02 FSM, please note the graph in part Two

PROCEDURE ONE

(1) Transmission fluid must be at normal operating

temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive

vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to

normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).

(2) Position vehicle on level surface.

(3) Start and run engine at curb idle speed.

(4) Apply parking brakes.

(5) Shift transmission momentarily into all gear

ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.

(6) Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep

dirt from entering tube.

(7) Remove dipstick (Fig. 87) and check fluid level

as follows:

(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.

(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow

mark.

(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.

(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Mopart ATF

+4, type 9602, to restore correct level. Do not overfill.

Procedure Two requires a DRB tool and temperature correction. I found the chart surprising so I will post a link to it.

PROCEDURE TWO

(1) Start engine and apply parking brake.

(2) Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approximately

2 seconds.

(3) Shift the transmission into REVERSE for

approximately 2 seconds.

(4) Shift the transmission into PARK.

(5) Hook up DRB scan tool and select engine.

(6) Select sensors.

(7) Read the transmission temperature value.

(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the

figure. (Fig. 88)

(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the

dipstick according to the figure.

NOTE: After adding any fluid to the transmission,

wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully

drain from the fill tube into the transmission before

rechecking the fluid level.

(10) Check transmission for leaks.

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Reply to
billy ray

Thanks for looking it up and posting the chart, it will be really useful since mine is so cold-blooded and it's not going to be 80-90 degrees here anytime soon. My dipstick is different, having a cold 70 degree range and a hot 180 degree range. The difference between the 180 & 70 degree measurements in the chart translated to my dipstick shows the 70 degree level should about midway in the cold range. After a drive down the block and back just far enough to shift through all 4 gears at ~65 degrees air temp, mine was at the very bottom of the cold range checked in Neutral, so it's probably only 1/2 pint low.

The 2 procedures from the FSM suggest there shouldn't be much difference between Park and Neutral, so I'm beginning to suspect the almost 2 pint difference I'm seeing is the cooler draining into the pan possibly siphoning through a sludged up drain back valve. It should hit 30K miles by spring and I'm planning to do the filter and run another gallon of fresh stuff through it a quart at a time taken from the cooler return line, so I'll just add a new drain back valve to the 'to-do' list.

Thanks aga> Procedure One and Two from my '02 FSM, please note the graph in part Two >

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Reply to
Al J

I had no idea that ATF expanded so much over a limited temperature range, that chart came a surprise.

You should really change your fluid every couple years, it would be best to change the filter too.

If you add a drain plug in the pan (a few dollars at any auto parts store) ATF changes become as easy as motor oil changes.

You can also snake a very thin tube down the dipstick hole and siphon the fluid, you can usually get 4-6 quarts by this method.

Be sure to use ATF+4 ONLY, never a 'universal' fluid or an additive to make some other brand the same as ATF+4 (they don't). It is available in Mopar and Valvoline brands at your local auto parts store.

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Reply to
billy ray

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