I am (trying) to replace the brake hoses that go from the brake lines to the caliper (front) and from the line to the rear axle with extended stainless steel braided ones.
Anyway, I tried to get the flare nuts loose (of course with a flare wrench) and had one that seemed to fit snug (after cleaning them off) but somehow I managed to get one stripped anyway (the hex is no longer hex but rounded).
What size flare nuts are used in the front and the rear ?
I actually have those craftsmen flare wrenches, I have the whole set. The cj5 is a '79, I have it for 10 years now , who knows what happened in the 20 before that. (the flare nuts looked a bit messed up already)
I was actually thinking of cutting the flare nut off and put a new one on. I do have enough 'play' to pull the line out through the frame a little bit further.
However there is some 'protective ribbed shielding' on the line. Is it possible to cut a little of that shielding off so I have some room to make that flare? Or is that 'shielding' part of the line? Wild guess , the line that goes to the calipers on the front axle is
3/16?
Ron
PS: I looked at a new set of those pre-formed already (pricey though)
It fit snug, you have the right size wrench, they are just so corroded, they will never come off with a flare wrench likely. The brass gets soft and rotted. Mine never do. They go 'on' just fine with the wrench....
To get them off if you are no longer going to use them, I just cut the suckers, then a socket fits right on the flare nut. They 'still' need a day or two soaking in penetrating oil...
'I' personally have never been able to 'fix' an old line end by putting a new flare on. That rock guard wire wrap will unwind, but the line has usually gone 'crystalline' so it will just split when you try to do a new 'double' flare that it needs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail > Hi all,
Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with extended, braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably 30 yo too and besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I can just cut it off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.
If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't make a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line with a new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is that just not a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)
If all that fails and need to replace the lines, than I'll run into the same problem at the proportioning valve of course.
R> It fit snug, you have the right size wrench, they are just so corroded,
Compression couplers are a _very_ bad idea. Those are for low pressure lines and can fail at brake pressures. Don't use them. Any shop that would use those on brake line is incompetent.
Considering the age you may be better off buying some new line and bending it up yourself. It's not that hard to do if you get a good bending kit (never bend line by hand). Use string to figure out the length you will need.
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note: remeber to leave expansion and flex joints in the line. You don't want straight shots. That's why you see the -._,- bends every so often. It relieves stress. The extra coils by the booster are for cooling. Brake fluid gets real hot.
I'm actually starting to lean towards replacing all the brake lines.
(thanks for the link, 4wd hardware seems to have the steel lines too)
By the time I have all the line, connectors and the right tools to do it I probably spend more than just buy the kit.
btw: I am trying to find a proportioning valve for my '79 cj5, but I can't seem to find any online ? (Does anyone know where I can get those?) I see one or two pop up, but it mentions it is not a direct fit. (If I spent the money I might as well get the 'just bolt in' model
I crawled around under the Jeep a bit and looked at the haynes/ clifford manuals. Apparently there were two types of proportioning valves, "D" and "W" that year (79). I have the "W" type it looks like and that one looks like this one;
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However it says "1977-78 and 1982-86 CJ" in the description. What is the difference between this one and the W type or are they the same ? (if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck.......)
That looks identicle to the one on my 81 CJ7, also looks the same as the one on the 86 CJ7 frame I bought to replace mine, unfortunately for you I already sold the valve off it, or I would of sent it to you.
Might try here. At least they have a real nice parts breakout.
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Unless they changed the brake piston sizes there shouldn't be any difference in valves. Most common change is due to using discs instead of drums for the rear brakes. Some added the idiot light sender.
The valves can be rebuilt, but sometimes that's nearly as expensive as just dropping in a new one.
they look very similar/identical and I wonder how big the difference is.
"All it does" (if not mistaken) is 'split' some of the brake power to the rear and most of the power to the front so that the rear wheels don't lock up too quick.
With all the mods we have, 'big tires, winch, lift kits etc that move the center of gravity around. A proportioning valve out of a later cj/ yj (if it's not exactly the same) probably just works because it's 'close enough' ?
I am trying to look up the specs, to see how similar 'they' actually are.
So far, what I see as a replacement for my jeep is an adjustable pr> =A0 That looks identicle to the one on my 81 CJ7, also looks the same as = the
Yep. That and contain a lockout slider that prevents total brake faiure if the front or rear lines rupture.
With larger tires you are less likely to lock the brakes up, but still the majority of stopping power comes from the front brakes. I replaced one in my old C-10 chevy with a later unit, didn't have a bit of problems.
That's just a screw that controls flow to the rear wheels. You adjust it so the rears don't lock up under agressive stops. (not emergency/panic/both-feet stops, just agressive)
they look very similar/identical and I wonder how big the difference is.
"All it does" (if not mistaken) is 'split' some of the brake power to the rear and most of the power to the front so that the rear wheels don't lock up too quick.
With all the mods we have, 'big tires, winch, lift kits etc that move the center of gravity around. A proportioning valve out of a later cj/ yj (if it's not exactly the same) probably just works because it's 'close enough' ?
I am trying to look up the specs, to see how similar 'they' actually are.
So far, what I see as a replacement for my jeep is an adjustable pr> That looks identicle to the one on my 81 CJ7, also looks the same as the
Do not use a proportining valve from a disc/drum system in a drum/drum vehicle. It may look the same on the outside, but the pistons may be different size inside, or possibly a different spring. If you do use the wrong one, it'll cause your front brakes to lock up every time you use them. Believe me on this. :-(
As I mentioned, 'I' have had zero for luck when trying to put a new flare on an old steel line, it has never worked for me. Now I do live in the rust belt where a ten year old steel brake line is total garbage. I just had to replace all my lines for rust damage, including one perforated gas line, last month and they were all new in 1999.
My proportioning valve came apart really easily. I soaked the fittings in PB Blaster, then cut off all the brake lines with side cutters and used a 6 sided socket wrench on the brass fittings. They all came off really nice. Prop valves don't fail often, I wouldn't change it if it hasn't failed.
it hasn't failed yet. another plus probably is that it more than likely has the right fittings since it probably is original. that means that the new brake lines will just hook up without changing them.
I'm th> As I mentioned, 'I' have had zero for luck when trying to put a new
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