86 Driveshaft question

Hi all My jeep is an 86 Cherokee 2.5l with the 207 transfer case. Automatic

My 86 Jeep Cherokee has the double-offset (CV with a boot over it) front driveshaft. Which looks pretty wasted from the outside the boot is all pushed in and I could wiggle my pinkie finger in there, I'm

99.9% sure it is wasted. I was thinking about buying a replacement for it from napa. Would it put an extreme angle on the u-joints since it only uses 2 one on each end? Would it have some nasty vibrations? Sorry for all the questions but for the price of the napa replacement I want to know if it will be the right way to go. Here is the link to the Driveshaft it is the one labeled "Front Axle 100% Serviceable HD Direct Replacement U-Joint Style Shaft GKN Design" I was also thinking about lifting the cherokee only about 2 inces just enough to throw some 30x9.50x15's on it would this frontshaft work for something like that to?

Here is the link

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My question is would it be better and easier to say take the front out-put yoke from a 231 transefr case and then just get a double carrion style driveshaft from a junkyard Cherokee? I mean would say a jeep through 87-00 all have the same front-driveshaft? I would be looking for an Automatic driveshaft cause I hear their alittle bit longer then the manuel transmissions) would it all just bolt right up to mine? I'm gonna call the junkyard tommorrow and see what they would charge me for a front driveshaft out of a Cherokee (87-00)

Any info would be greatly appreciated

Sincerely

Dave

Reply to
Dave G
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My advice is to take your existing drive shaft to a machine shop, and have them tell you what is up with it. Chances are good that you can get away with replacing the joint or maybe even just the boot. Unless you know exactly what you are doing, trying to swap in "equivalent" but not "identical" parts, that may have compatibility issues, is going to buy you a lot of trouble.

"Carrion" -- Of or similar to dead and decaying flesh. The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition, 2000. You're killing me.

Earle

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Reply to
Earle Horton

The double cardan or CV joint is there to stop u-joint binding because of the angles involved. They can't get the vertical line of the front differential's u-joint to match up with the t-case because of front end alignment issues so they use the CV.

I really doubt a single u-joint will work for long, especially if you give the Jeep a lift.

That is one issue with lifts, it throws off the u-joint geometry.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

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Reply to
Mike Romain

No one still answered my question. The GKN Style Shaft has got to go. As far as I know of I can take the front input yoke from an 231 case which will bolt right into my 207 case. Then just go and get a double Cardan front drive shaft. Here maybe these picture from Madxj will help some of you to understand. Any which way you cut it I do not want that piece of shit GKN shaft on my jeep. So I'll ask again has anyone done this or know of anyone that has done this? It seems pretty simple. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

p.s Sorry Earl that you have nothing better to do then to tear apart people for the way they spell. You can't rebuild the GKN joint anyways if its wasted, its wasted you need a new shaft period. Read your haynes manuel.

Sincerely

Dave

Reply to
Dave G

Here is the picture from Madxj I forgot to add it, if it doesn't come up just got to XJ Driveshaft Tec. The driveshaft I have is the one in the picture, on the top. Notice the simialir size on the one right below it.

Reply to
Dave G

Here is the picture from Madxj I forgot to add it, if it doesn't come up just got to XJ Driveshaft Tec. The driveshaft I have is the one in the picture, on the top. Notice the simialir size on the one right below it.

here is the link

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Sincerely

Dave

Reply to
Dave G

Link

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Reply to
Dave G

It looks as if you would also need a different pinion yoke for the front differential, if you used the Six States or NAPA double carrion (heh, heh) type drive shaft. I can't really tell from the picture, but it looks as if the universal joint cups are bigger on that shaft. When you swap the yokes, make absolutely sure too that the internal spline depth is the same, or made up with washers, or else you are going to over or under torque the pinion nut. Getting the front pinion nut torqued right, is worth a whole thread in itself.

Your original post stated only that the boot was bad. If you can find a boot for the GKN joint, and the internals are still good, then you stand to save some money by using it. It is interesting that NAPA sells a two cross joint shaft for this application. Just because they sell it, it has to make you wonder, whether Jeep overdesigned the original shaft, and whether a two cross joint shaft is in fact good enough. It is going to be less of a headache to install the NAPA "Direct Replacement" shaft, but as Mike pointed out it may be a problem down the road, especially if you actually use the four wheel drive much.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

If you are still listening then yoke seal diameters is another potential problem area.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

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