94 Cherokee XJ Coolant leak

You should see a little corrosion wherever the coolant is leaking from. Trying taking it for a short drive and getting the engine good and hot - run the AC, and take it home. Make sure it's hot, and open the hood and look for a leak try having someone rev the engine while you look, and also try shutting off the engine and re-checking.

Failing that, you can get a cooling system pressure tester for around $20 at an auto parts store. Basically, it hooks up where your radiator cap goes and pressurises the system. It's got a little gauge. If it's got a leak, it'll leak when you pump it up.

HTH

Carl

my 96 jeep just went through the same thing and I had a clogged radiator but yours doesn't sound that bad. Does it only leak when its cold or sat for a while? It might just be a clamp thats not tightened well and it only leaks every so often when the car is cool.

I replaced the radiator last summer, so I think I should be ok there. It really is a puzzler. I've still go the factory spring-style clamps on the major hoses.

Thanks.

gcdenis wrote:

Not to imply that this is the cause but DC says the factory clamps should always be replaced because they cannot be retensioned.

Replacement stainless steel screw clamps are generally 2 for 99 cents and are reusable

Where is your XJ's expansion tank?

Does the radiator to expansion tank tubing run through that area?

Does the exhaust smell sweet?

What prompted the radiator change last summer?

Did you also replace the radiator cap at that time?

Was the thermostat checked or changed?

What coolant was used?

You can visualize the freeze plugs in difficult places by use of a small mirror, a leaking plug will show rust or coolant traces. You may have a better view from underneath.

Those are one use only clamps that should be tossed in the garbage when removed. They lose their spring memory when flexed the second time usually because or heat and/or the old hose has swelled so they need to expand more than the original installation calls for.

You should replace them with the screw strap type.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: N>

I missed some of this thread, but if you can't find the leak, take the vehicle to a competent shop that has the leak test system that uses fluorescent dye and UV light. My friend uses this system in his shop, and I have seen how easy it is to pinpoint even the smallest leaks.

Chris

You can now buy the kit at the local auto parts stores for this test. It comes with dye, glasses and a light I believe.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: N>

If he is getting puddles that are big enough to track by the fluid drop in his expansion tank then he has a sizable leak somewhere.

Per the UV treatment, a leak this size would have blown coolant all over the engine compartment, how do you clean the engine compartment? Will just Gunk and a garden hose work or do you need high pressure and degreasers?

Water from a garden hose should work fine for antifreeze.

Earle

Some clamp leaks are sneaky. They can hold when under pressure, but leak as they cool down.

My preferred way to find a leak is to hit some mud puddles. Once the engine dries, the leak will be really obvious.

I have only ever used a garden hose on my engines. I don't usually try to get the grease off, just the dirt off. I have never seen a greasy engine rust, but have a dry oil pan with perforations through it.

Mike

billy ray wrote:

Thanks Mike, I didn't know that. I'll have to see what the price is on the kit. My friend usually does the test very cheaply for his customers, so I didn't even think about the possibility of a DIY kit.

Chris