1. Home
  2. Jeep and Willys (new and old)
  3. 96 Cherokee "Clutch" problem

96 Cherokee "Clutch" problem

Hey folks,

I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...

The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal is pushed all the way in.

Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar. It's full.

Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing, bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the tranny???

Also, I've got some questions...

The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C and all of a sudden, it works.

Problem solved? Don't use the AC...

Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.

Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch, released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned on the ignition and the problem was gone...

Any thoughts or ideas?

The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.

Thanks

Tom

Reply to
Smarny
Loading thread data ...

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Thanks Bill:

I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?

I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.

Thanks

TWR

Reply to
Smarny

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master, plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about that ).

The l> Thanks Bill:

Reply to
Will Honea

I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.

Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.

Thanks for your suggestions.

TWR

Reply to
Smarny

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.