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battery strap connection - options?

when our son got home with the GC, we went looking around for any cause for our recent problems with the tailgate - like a simple fuse -

In doing so - we stumbled across another challenge - NO power -

Awhile ago, we had lost electric power while driving, as the dashboard was flickering and the volts was like ZERO. So - we drove directly to the local dealer thinking the worst.

As it turned out, the negative battery connector was cracked. They snipped off the molded connector, stripped the 2 large wires, and replaced it with a screw down saddle connector, (the wires go in and there is a strap across them that screws down on each side)

Well - today - the wires were a little loose, hence the loss of total DC electrical power while we were poking around.

Not sure of the remedy on this.... There is 1/2" of copper (now tarnished) inside the strap connector, and another 1/2" of insulation until the large wrapped "bundle".

SO - any suggestions on how to clean up the existing 1/2" copper and use the same type or different connector to get a really solid grip ?

Reply to
P.Schuman
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Reply to
RiverRunner66 via CarKB.com

Agreed, replace the whole cable. They are cheaper than a tow truck service call.

Cheers,

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

the copper is just the usual discoloration - no white powder.

For our 2001 GC, it appears there are 2 black (negative) cables in the bundle, with one maybe just going down to the frame, but not sure where the other goes. I did tighten both lockdown screws on the clamp, and all is well - for now - and I may go look for another clamp/strap connector to try again.

Reply to
P.Schuman

Reply to
RiverRunner66 via CarKB.com

Those saddle clamps are only good for about a year before they need service, even with dielectric grease on them. They make different quality or strength ones including brass ones.

If I leave mine for two years, I get a failure. I use a wire brush on a drill to polish back up the copper cable strands, then I re-twist them and coat them with dielectric grease again once clamped down.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > when our son got home with the GC,
Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
RiverRunner66 via CarKB.com

the overall problem is having 2x cables, plus, with them snipped at the old molded connector, which makes them a tad short, there might be some mechanical leverage of the "bundle" pulling down on the connection.

tnx for the discussion - I'll look around at the auto parts store for another clamp connector before I go back and really trust it...

Reply to
P.Schuman

BEFORE you go replacing the negative battery cable.. call the dealer and ask them how much the starter altenator harness is. Oh, I recommend having a dephibulator handy, you might need it.

Yes he will need the harness, due to one of those negative wires actualy splits of and runs to the funny "block" connector on the back of the altenator, and the other split runs to the block. (just below the coil) .

I just had a simular problem with the wifeys 93ZJ, when the altenator failed. I ended up having to splice the negative wires together (pain in the $#%).

I would suggest buying a solder on battery clamp, and use some good quality rosen core solder with a blow torch and solder a new clamp on the cables.

Snow...

93 ZJ 89 Caprice Waggy.
Reply to
Snow

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